Get Ready for Petra!

Petra is the main reason I decided to come to Jordan. In fact, Petra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is probably the reason most tourists visit the country. Like millions of others, I first encountered Petra many years ago in one of the Indiana Jones movies.  In recent months, I noticed a slew of magazine articles about the ancient city. In fact, Petra’s instantly recognizable Treasury was featured on the cover of Smithsonian magazine shortly before my trip. Even so, nothing prepared me for the overwhelming impact of seeing Petra in person. 

Leaving Amman for the long drive (approximately 250 kilometers, or 3-plus hours) south, we travelled parallel to the historic King’s Highway, an ancient route that connected the old Iron Age kingdoms of Jordan.  Recent rains and flash floods had closed the nearly 3000-year old highway, so our only option was Desert Highway, a faster and more modern road.  Along the way, Nad pointed out that we were passing through the land of Moab, mentioned in the Bible as the homeland of Ruth.  The rocky landscape soon gave way to fertile plains topped with reddish soil.  In earlier times, farmers cultivated wheat, barley and vegetables here.  Nowadays the land is covered mostly with olive trees and grape vines.  

Our base for exploring Petra was the town of Wadi Musa, located adjacent to the entrance to the ancient site. In fact, our hotel was a mere few minutes walk from the Visitors Center and its excellent museum.  Before I describe what I saw in Petra itself, I want to share a little of the background information that I learned.

This map showing Petra and the surrounding area was in the museum at the Visitors' Center.

Archaeologists aren’t sure exactly when the city we now call Petra was founded.  They think that around the 4^thcentury BCE, a nomadic tribe from the Arabian Peninsula settled in the area and established a small independent kingdom.  This group of people, the Nabataeans, became very wealthy through control of the incense trade (frankincense and myrrh being very important commodities in the ancient world).  They built their capital city in a strategic location, i.e. a valley that offered safety and protection.  Equally important, however, the site was where the incense route and the spice route intersected.  Caravans brought traders from different parts of the ancient world and made Petra a very cosmopolitan city.  In addition, Petra was able to thrive in this arid location because the Nabataeans had great skill in developing advanced water systems. 

The Nabataean kingdom reached its height from the 1^stcentury BCE through the 1^stcentury CE.  For all their wealth and expertise, the Nabataeans were not a significant military power.  In 106 CE, the Romans annexed the kingdom, and gave the name Petra (meaning “rock” in Greek) to the Nabataean capital city. Petra became part of the Byzantine empire in the early 4^thcentury.  Subsequently, several Christian churches and a monastery were built in the city.  However, around this time, a major earthquake and a shift in trade routes to coastal cities led to the Petra’s decline.  By the 7^thcentury, when the Muslims took control of the territory, Petra was nearly deserted. For several hundred years, few except the local Bedouins remembered the city’s existence.  All that changed when a Swiss explorer named Johann Burckhardt rediscovered ancient Petra in 1812. 

  

Now it’s time to get a look at Petra.  I must admit that we groaned when Nad told us to meet at the Visitors’ Center the following morning at 7am, but I’m glad he insisted that we get an early start.  The sun was barely up when we gathered outside the entrance, shivering in the chilly morning air.  We had prepared for the long and strenuous day ahead by stocking up on water bottles and stuffing our backpacks with fruit and cheese and rolls from the hotel’s bounteous breakfast buffet. 

  

Visitors to Petra today enter the city using the same route taken by visitors centuries ago.  You must first pass through the Siq, a natural sandstone gorge that is 1.2 kilometers in length.  Parts of the gorge are quite narrow, and traffic can back up quickly.  Most people pass through on foot, but we also had to contend with mules and horse drawn carriages that are available for those unable (or unwilling) to walk. Along either side of the rocky passageway, you can still see remains of channels and pipes that originally supplied the city with water.  Niches carved into the sides of the gorge once held statues that were thought to protect those entering and leaving the city.  

As you emerge from the Siq, you catch your first glimpse of Petra’s most famous building, the Treasury. In real life, it’s even better than in photos!  Just be careful not to trip over any of the bored-looking camels or the selfie-stick wielding tourists as you gawk up at the Treasury’s towering red-hued façade.  

Nad pointed out that the structure’s architectural features (columns, friezes, statuary, etc.) are recessed so that the rain doesn’t hit them.  This has contributed to their remarkable state of preservation.  He also explained that Petra is an example of a city built by subtraction, meaning that the characteristic structures were carved directly into the sandstone.  A close examination of the Treasury reveals the extent to which the Nabataeans were influenced by their Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Greek, and Roman neighbors.  I kept that in mind throughout the day, as we walked through the sprawling city and noticed elements of many different architectural styles, often in a single building. 

Perhaps you already knew it, but I was surprised to learn that the Treasury is not where the Nabataeans minted their money.  (I had always assumed that it was a government agency, like the Treasury Department in Washington, D.C.) Actually, the name goes back to a Bedouin legend that a pharaoh had hidden a treasure in the urn carved at the top of the structure.  No treasure was ever found, and archaeologists believe that the real function of the building was to serve as a mausoleum for kings. 

The Treasury was just the beginning of Petra’s wonders.  Nad guided us past colonnaded streets, burial caves, a Roman amphitheater, and several impressive temples.  Speaking of religion, the Nabataeans were polytheistic and easily merged some of the Greek and Roman deities with their own gods and goddesses.  The oldest temple in the city is called Qasr al-Bint, or the Palace of the Pharaoh’s Daughter. A nearly square structure built in the Hellenistic style, it served as the city’s main temple. 

Roman amphitheater

Palace of the Pharaoh's Daughter

After a group lunch break, we set out to explore independently.  Some people chose to take the long hike (45 minute climb, 45 minute descent) to the monastery.  I decided to skip the monastery and take a shorter hike up to the Royal Tombs, located on a ridge overlooking the center of the city.  The path was steep but manageable, and there were great views when I reached the top.  Bedouin vendors were perched all along the route with their textiles, jewelry, and other souvenirs displayed under canopies.  I can’t imagine how they haul their wares up and down the path everyday.

Entrance to one of the Royal Tombs

The interior of the tomb, where ceremonies were held 

The view from the ridge where the Royal Tombs are located 

By the time I finished checking out the tombs, it was mid-afternoon and I felt my energy waning. I had spent the past eight hours trudging over rough terrain and I was thoroughly exhausted. Clearly, Petra was so big and overwhelming that it was impossible to see all of it in one day.  I walked back to the Treasury and took one last look before heading into the gorge. Several horse-drawn carriages passed me, ferrying those too tired to make the trip back under their own power.  

Since the Nabataeans grew grapes nearby and were big consumers of wine, it seemed appropriate to reward myself with a drink in the Cave Bar, not far from the Visitors Center. I settled into a cozy corner and slowly slipped a glass of Jordanian cabernet sauvignon made from grapes grown near Mount Nebo.  

My cozy nook in the Cave Bar

Relaxing in the Cave Bar 

It was already dusk when I made the short walk back to our hotel. Little did I know as I dragged my tired body up to my room that I would be carrying the fine red dust of Petra with me in my shoes and jeans for the remainder of the trip. In fact, if I give my shoes a good shake right now, I bet I’ll see a cloud of red.  

My favorite camel photo!

Jordan, beyond Amman

I never imagined that I’d find so many interesting sights within a couple of hours of Amman. Most impressive was Jerash, an extremely well-preserved Greco-Roman city located about fifty kilometers north of the Jordanian capital.  While the history of Jerash dates back over 6000 years, the city was at its height during the period of Roman rule, especially during the 2^ndcentury CE (the time of Emperor Hadrian the Great).  Walls that the Romans built around the city as defense against local non-Romans as well as the Persians are still standing.  

Under a brilliant blue sky, we admired the imposing triple-arched northern gateway built to honor the Emperor Hadrian when he came to visit the city.  We strolled on the ancient paving stones of the city’s Cardo Maximus (main street), climbed to hilltop temples devoted to Artemis and Zeus, and strode across the huge colonnaded forum with its unusual oval shape.  Since Jerash became a Christian city in the 4^thcentury, we also saw the ruins of several Byzantine churches.  

Entrance to Jerash through the northern gate (Hadrian's gate) 

Along the Cardo

The Forum with its Ionic columns

Along a Roman street 

A fountain 

Temple of Artemis

In the 7^thcentury, Jerash was conquered, first by the Persians and then by the Muslims. The city’s importance ebbed after the Muslim Abbasid Caliphate supplanted the Umayyad rulers in the 8^thcentury and moved their capital from Damascus to Baghdad.  Another factor contributing to the decline of Jerash was the change in trade routes, as sea routes began to eclipse overland routes.  In addition, large parts of the city were destroyed by an earthquake in the 8^thcentury.   

We could easily have spent an entire day (or more) exploring the ruins of Jerash, but after a few hours, we gladly took seats in what remains of the Roman hippodrome, which originally had seating for 15,000 people.  It was time for the gladiator show and chariot race.  

Roman legionnaires 

Chariot race in the hippodrome

Later that day, on our way back to Amman, we made a brief stop to see Ajlun castle, perched high on a hilltop. The sun had slipped behind the clouds and raindrops were just beginning to fall as we climbed the stone steps into the Muslim limestone fortress.  The castle was built in Crusader style in the late 12^thc AD under orders of Salahuddin (aka Saladin), founder of the Ayyubid dynasty.  It served to protect important communication routes and trade caravans and to stop the territorial expansion of the Crusaders.  In fact, the Crusader armies never succeeded in overtaking it.  In the 13^thcentury, the castle was damaged in a Mongol attack.  However, it continued to serve as a military garrison for the Ottomans.  

Approach to Ajlun Castle 

Interior of the castle 

View from the castle

Warming up with Bedouin tea and coffee

Thoroughly chilled after exploring the halls and chambers of the castle and standing on its windswept overlooks, we warmed up at a Bedouin stand with cups of mint tea and cardamom coffee.  

The following day, we traveled a short distance south of Amman to see two more historic sights.  From the bus, I looked out at the dramatic landscape and got a better sense of the geography of the region.  Nad explained that the Jordan Rift Valley is part of the Great Rift Valley that extends from eastern Africa northward into Lebanon and eastern Turkey.  The collision of two tectonic plates causes frequent earthquakes that rearrange the region’s geographical features.

When we reached Mount Nebo, we stopped to visit the memorial to Moses. According to the Bible, Moses stood on this mountaintop to get a glimpse of the Holy Land that he would never enter.  The site is believed to be his burial place.  Christian pilgrims started coming to Mount Nebo as early as the 4^thcentury when a church was erected here.  Fragments of the original Byzantine mosaics are preserved in the modern church and museum run by the Franciscan order.  Before we left Mount Nebo, we looked down into the Jordan River Valley and saw the Dead Sea and the cities of Jericho and Jerusalem in the distance.  

Byzantine mosaics 

Close-up of tesserae

Looking out from Mount Nebo 

A little farther south, we came to Madaba, a predominantly Christian town known for its mosaics.  Christianity flourished in this region in the late Roman period and during Byzantine times.  In the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George, we viewed a 6^thcentury mosaic map set into the church floor.  The Byzantine era mosaic, which consists of over two million tesserae (tiny stone pieces), shows Jerusalem and other holy sites. If you look at the right side of the map, you’ll see the Dead Sea and, below it, the city of Jerusalem.  

Mosaic floor map in Madaba's Church of St. George 

We had a chance to learn about the making of mosaics at the Madaba Arts and Handicrafts Center, a workshop and gallery sponsored by the Jordan River Foundation.  As we watched an artist do the painstaking work of cutting and setting the tesserae, we learned that the design is created wrong side up and is flipped over after the pieces are set in place.  We saw beautiful examples of mosaic work and other traditional arts (ceramics, jewelry, ostrich egg painting) in the gallery.  Nad had instructed us to bargain if we were interested in making any significant purchases.  I wish I could have brought home a mosaic table, but the price for even the smallest one was way over my budget.

Working on a mosaic 

There wasn’t time for regret, however.  We were headed south to Petra, which will be the subject of my next blog post. 

Off to the Holy Land

Over a year ago, I booked an OAT trip to Israel and Jordan.  Finally, this past November, the departure date arrived.  The itinerary began in Jordan, and I must admit that I had a preconceived notion that Jordan was primarily endless sand where camels outnumbered people.  As soon as I got to my hotel in Amman, I realized the extent of my ignorance.  The Thousand Nights Hotel was certainly no tent in the desert.  Located on a busy commercial street in a modern section of the city, it was not only up-to-date but quite luxurious. 

Since I had arrived a day before the OAT tour officially began, I was looking forward to a day on my own to form some impressions of the Jordanian capital.  First, however, I needed to fuel myself at the breakfast buffet.  The extensive offerings included some of my favorite foods – hummus, eggplant dip, feta, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, freshly baked pita, and even halwa– although I don’t normally consume them at breakfast.    Actually, I soon realized that it was a good idea to load up on calories in the morning because we would need plenty of energy to keep up with our packed schedule.  

On my very first morning in Amman, I made my first new friend of the trip.  I saw a woman about my age standing just outside the hotel. It wasn’t hard to identify her as fellow OAT traveler. Sue, from San Francisco, turned out to be an experienced hiker and a veteran of several previous OAT adventures. Together, we set out for a walk around the neighborhood. 

The area seemed to be fairly new, with a mixture of businesses ranging from banks to small grocery stores and restaurants along the main road. At one shop, an intoxicating aroma and a beautiful window display of spice pyramids drew me inside where I sampled half a dozen different types of za’atar(the ubiquitous hyssop and sumac mixture that is sprinkled on salads, yogurt, etc.).  We both tried some plump dates and dried apricots, and examined a variety of colorful Jordanian sweets.  

A small grocery in west Amman

Baking bread at a street stand near the hotel

Modern residential buildings in west Amman

With the heavy traffic and frequently missing sidewalks, this part of the city wasn’t especially pedestrian friendly.  After a while, we took refuge in a bustling restaurant frequented by locals (judging from the fact that almost all of the women were wearing hijabs).  I wondered if we’d have problems with the language, but the waiter produced an English menu and we had no trouble ordering very reasonably priced lunch of falafel and tea. 

In the afternoon, Sue and I decided to try the traditional Turkish bath house (with separate men’s and women’s facilities) located on the lower level of the hotel.  I don’t normally get massages or go to spas so I wasn’t sure what to expect. Based on a previous visit to a Japanese-style spa in Santa Fe, I was anticipating a calm, tranquil environment where I could be reflective, solitary and inner-focused. However, I was in for quite a surprise. The Turkish bath proved to be an extremely social and eye-opening cultural experience, filled with laughter, talking and even singing and dancing. Women who normally appear covered up in public or in mixed company must feel liberated in the female-only setting. Like them, I found it easy to shed my inhibitions along with my clothing. Even though we didn’t share a common language, we communicated with gestures and facial expressions, and it was a joy to feel included in their sisterhood.  The session included time in a steam room and a Jacuzzi tub, an invigorating exfoliation and a body scrub under a mountain of bubbles while lying on a heated tile platform, and a 15-minute massage, all of which helped my sore and stiff muscles recover from the long day of travel.  

The entrance to the Turkish bath house 

Around dinnertime, Sue and I got our first glimpse of our Jordanian tour guide. Nader, in a typical red-checkered Arab headdress, came striding across the hotel lobby to introduce himself. Tall, handsome and powerfully built, Nad could easily be mistaken for an actor in the classic film Lawrence of Arabia.  His American-accented English was perfect and the twinkle in his eye hinted at his charm and charismatic personality.  Sue and I were immediately smitten. 

Our guide, Nader (Nad, for short) 

So “Yalla!” or “Let’s go!” as they say in Arabic.  It was time to get acquainted with Amman.  

The following morning, we met the remaining 10 members of our group and, under Nad’s direction, set out to explore the Jordanian capital.  Nad gave us a quick overview of the city’s development. The original name of the city was Ammon, i.e. the city of the Ammonites. You may recall from Bible stories that the Ammonites were one of the tribes that King David battled.  While Amman has an extremely long history, the older eastern part of the present city dates back to the early 20^thcentury while the newer western part of the city (where our hotel was located) was built over the last twenty to thirty years.  Here, the predominant color is white, since most of the buildings are constructed of the local limestone.  

As we drove through the city, I was surprised to see that it was so hilly. In fact, Nad informed us that Amman is built on seven hills, like Rome. We began our tour in the western part of the city with a stop at the King Abdullah Mosque, built in the 1980s.  The exterior of this structure, with its beautiful blue dome, is decorated with geometric designs and geometric style calligraphy.  After the women in our group donned long robes (provided free of charge by the mosque) and covered our heads, we were ushered inside.  Nad told us that the lines on the carpet guide the male worshippers, helping them arrange themselves in straight rows, shoulder to shoulder, when they pray.  There is a separate area for women.  We sat on the carpet for a very informative question and answer session with one of the leaders of the mosque.  

King Abdullah Mosque with geometric decoration 

Interior of the King Abdullah Mosque 

From the mosque, we proceeded to the Citadel in the older section of the city, where we saw remains of city walls built during the Bronze Age (3000-1200 BCE). Here, you can find ruins dating back to ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic times.  Most impressive was the 5000 seat Roman amphitheater, built in the Greek style, i.e. carved right into the hillside.  It is still used today for theatrical performances.  

Roman ruins

After a short walk in the old city, we came to the legendary Hashem Falafel Restaurant.  As the oldest falafel restaurant in Amman, it’s extremely popular with locals as well as with tourists.  Our group enjoyed a traditional meal served family style.  It included two types of hummus, eggplant dip, fresh tomatoes, warm pita, a fiery red sauce, and a special type of falafel stuffed with sautéed onions and coated with sesame seeds.  We topped off the filling meal with glasses of mint tea.  

Typical street in east Amman 

Everything was delicious, especially the stuffed falafel, at Hashem. 

Despite having stuffed myself at lunchtime, I ventured out to try the local ice cream shortly after we got back to our hotel.  (Oh, the sacrifices we must make in the name of culinary research.) The intriguingly named Arabic ice cream caught my attention.  It was delicious but I had trouble identifying its unusual taste.  I later learned that it derives its distinctive flavor from mastic gum, a substance that comes from the resin of the mastic tree. The aromatic resin is sun-dried into small translucent golden pieces, which can be ground up for flavoring. Arabic ice cream is definitely worth trying if you ever come across it.  

The culinary challenge continued a couple of hours later at our group dinner, a lavish feast at the well-known Tawaheen El Hawa restaurant.  I could have made a meal from the assortment of mezze that we shared. Of course, these were just the appetizer course, which was followed by the main course.  I chose mansaf, Jordan’s national dish. Mansafis lamb cooked with yogurt and a salty cheese, which form a richly flavored sauce.  The meat was so tender that it was falling apart. It was served over a mound of rice, and was quite tasty.  

Woman making bread in the restaurant

Mezze (appetizers) 

Mansaf, Jordan's national dish 

It was a busy day and a great way to kick off our exploration of Jordan. Tomorrow, we’d be heading out of the city, and I was eagerly anticipating more discoveries and surprises. 

News for the New Year

L’shanah tovah!  We’re at the start of a new year (5779) in the Jewish calendar, and it’s a time of many changes.  Slightly cooler weather has finally arrived, and I’m hopeful that the humidity level will drop along with the temperatures.  Leaves have already started to fall from the trees, a sign of the upcoming season.  

Daily life, however, remains much the same.  Elisa, Christian and Sylvie are still in residence.  However, that situation will probably be changing fairly soon.  They expect to relocate to Brooklyn within the next month or so.  That will trigger a whole series of changes in my routines.  But for now, I’m enjoying multi-generational living. 

Life revolves primarily around family activities, with Sylvie keeping us all entertained (as well as exhausted). Her developing verbal abilities continue to astound us.  I admire how Elisa manages to keep Sylvie occupied and how both Elisa and Christian handle Sylvie’s frequent meltdowns.  It certainly isn’t easy being three! 

All of the adults in the house spend several hours a day living in the world of Sylvie’s imagination.  Very often, she’s a baby owl, a baby cheetah, or a baby horse.  She also assigns roles that we must play and we’ve learned to stay in character for long periods of time.  Other times, she pretends to be a mommy taking care of her babies, i.e. her many stuffed animals, who seem to suffer from all kinds crises – they’re sick, a fire burned down their house, they’re lost, their parents died (!), etc.  I predict that she has a bright future as a novelist, playwright or filmmaker.  

From a very early age, Sylvie has been fascinated by animals, from the tiniest bug to the most enormous dinosaur.   

Observing a bug

 Sylvie in her new T-rex shirt

Fortunately, a whole family of deer, including two adorable fawns, frequently visit our yard.  Sylvie would love to play with them and is always disappointed when they run off. 

Elisa capitalized on Sylvie’s animal interest by baking pretzel animals with her on a recent rainy afternoon. 

Art activities occupy much of Sylvie’s time.  Any paper left around the house is liable to be covered with her scrawls.  The driveway and the entrance outside the front door provide ample space for chalk drawing.  Not long ago, I came home to find Sylvie’s decorations on the front door itself.  

We have special family time on the weekends when we get together at the house with Elisa’s sibling, Mint (formerly Matt), for late breakfast.  I had never developed the brunch habit, but the influence of the younger generation must have rubbed off on me.  On Saturday or Sunday morning, I prepare a big meal – sometimes bagels, lox, and eggs with all the trimmings; other times omelets, frittata or a variety of pancakes; always a platter of cheese and fruit and a pot of coffee.  When we sit around the table in the family room, enjoying the food and each other’s company, I marvel at how lucky am I.  And I sigh, as well, thinking how happy Elliott would be to share these moments with us. 

Elliott would also be thrilled to see the completed patio that Christian built, with the occasional help of the other family members.  Just last week, Christian installed stepping stones in the backyard and now he’s even adding some landscaping.  I’m eternally grateful for all he has done and I’m sure we’ll enjoy sitting out there once the weather gets a little more comfortable. We had hoped to celebrate Christian’s September birthday on the patio, but instead opted to enjoy our pizza dinner indoors to escape the ever-present bugs.  

The construction crew 

Candles in the ice cream for Christian's birthday

Speaking of food, Elisa and I are trying new recipes several times a week.  One of our favorites is polenta lasagna, a super easy vegetarian version of the Italian classic.  The idea came from the sampling table at our local Trader Joe’s.  

On a recent evening, Elisa introduced me to her version of Israeli shakshuka.  After the onion, garlic, peppers, and tomatoes had cooked with cumin and paprika, she added herbed feta cheese before dropping in the eggs to poach.  The result was delicious!  In keeping with the Middle Eastern theme, I contributed a smashed cucumber salad with lemon, garlic, mint and za’atar.   

On a different day, shopping trip to a nearby Korean market inspired me to cook miso-glazed Japanese eggplant and a roasted whole red snapper.  I’d always been somewhat hesitant to cook a whole fish but it turned out beautifully and it wasn’t difficult to debone at all.  Sylvie enjoyed stuffing the fish with lemon and fresh herbs.  

Finally, I’ve discovered goat yogurt.  Its tanginess combines beautifully with fruit or veggies.  This morning, I mashed a ripe banana, and added it to the yogurt along some a little vanilla extract and powdered stevia, and topped it all with chopped walnuts.  Even though I had it for breakfast, I was thinking that it would be great for a healthy dessert.  

Summer outings into DC included a trip to Snarkitechture, the current special installation at the National Building Museum.  It was very family-friendly, as you can see from the photos.  We followed the museum visit with lunch at Izakaya Daikaya, a Japanese restaurant I’d long wanted to try.  Sylvie is getting more adept at handling her chopsticks, but fingers always work best.  

We all enjoyed this cold noodle dish with plentiful toppings.

Of course, we make regular visits to Miss Katie at Greenspring.  She will be moving into a special memory care unit within the next couple of months.  Even though she doesn’t say much, she is always happy to see her family.  

Aside from being busy with the family, I’m keeping my brain busy with an art history class, 17^thcentury Northern European Art, at George Mason University.  The semester began at the end of August, so I’ve already done quite a bit of reading about the historical context.  Back when I was a history major at the University of Wisconsin, I knew all about the Holy Roman Empire, the Reformation, the Counter-Reformation, the Spanish Netherlands, and the Dutch Republic.  But that was nearly fifty years, so I appreciate the refresher. What a pleasure it is being able to combine my dual interests in art and history.  

So far, one of the biggest surprises from this class is what I’ve learned about the Flemish painter Peter Paul Rubens.  To be honest, I’d never been attracted to his work.  I’d always thought of him as a painter of florid fleshy women.  But now I see that he was a fascinating person as well as an important artist.  It’s too bad I didn’t have this knowledge in 2007 when Elliott and I made a trip to Belgium. We spent a week in Antwerp, Rubens’ hometown, without ever stepping foot into the Cathedral to see his altarpieces or seeking out his paintings at the Rubenshuis.  

Another very interesting fact I learned recently in class concerns the idea of imitation in art.  For many centuries, European artists routinely trained by copying the works of earlier artists.  This tradition goes back to the Renaissance, when artists from throughout Europe flocked to Florence and Rome to study the rediscovered sculpture of the ancient Greeks and Romans. By the 17^thcentury, artists from northern Europe, like Rubens, were coming to Italy to study the paintings and sculptures of Renaissance masters.  Since they couldn’t take photos, they made detailed sketches, which they brought back to their home countries as a visual library.  Later, they often incorporated compositions and poses they had sketched into their own paintings.  This was considered perfectly acceptable, whereas today, an artist who copied so much from other artists would be dismissed as derivative.   

As far as my own art goes, I’m getting ready to return to the glass studio this coming week for the fall session at the Workhouse.  I’ve already been working on designs and I hope to focus on making smaller functional pieces – draped pieces for votive candles, light covers (for hanging lamps and tabletop lamps), soap dishes, spoon rests, etc. 

Finding time to write continues to be a challenge, especially as my calendar is filling up with concerts, book clubs, and dining out with friends.  And soon I’ll be getting ready for more travel.  My next trip will be to Jordan and Israel.  I'll end this post with warm wishes to all for a happy, healthy and peaceful new year.