Rabat, a Capital City

S’ba hanour – “Good morning” in Darija (Moroccan Arabic) – is finally rolling off my tongue after a week in Morocco. Our group (now numbering 16) is in Rabat, and we’ve exchanged our cozy minivan for a bright and shiny big bus with enormous windows, plush reclining seats, and footrests. As we make our way through Rabat, we’re high above street level, gazing down on cars and pedestrians. 

Rabat, Morocco's capital, is located on the Atlantic coast, 54 miles north of Casablanca. It's a city of 1.2 million people. Actually, 2 million people reside in the metropolitan area. Rabat is a clean, white, new looking city, and expensive by Moroccan standards. Most of the city was built by the French in the 1930s and 40s. Most of the people who work in the city center live across the Bouregreg River in the more affordable sister city of Sale. Fortunately, a new tram system provides easy transportation. 

Our modern hotel is located in the Nouvelle Ville, amidst all of the government and commercial buildings. There’s not all that much of interest to tourists right in the vicinity (with the exception of the modern art museum, which was closed on the day we were in Rabat) so we’re heading out to some of the historic sites. 

 

First, there’s the Chellah (pronounced Shellah), the hilltop fortress built in the 14^th century. It sits on the ruins of an ancient Roman settlement. Since it’s temporarily closed, we can only see it from the outside. In the eerie morning light, it looks somewhat forbidding. 

Next, we drive through the sprawling royal compound (home to the king, his advisors, and members of the government) to reach the site of two of Rabat’s landmarks – the mausoleums where the current king’s father (Hassan II) and grandfather (Mohamed V) are buried; and the soaring Hassan Tower (no relation to Hassan II), which dates back to the 12^th century. Uniformed guards on horseback are at posted at the site. 

The tower was part of an Almohad caliph’s plan to build the largest minaret and mosque in the world. He wanted the mosque to be able to accommodate 20,000 worshippers (the size of his army). Construction of the minaret and mosque stopped when the caliph died and was never completed. The tower stands at 44 meters. An earthquake in 1755 destroyed much of the walls and columns. Today, pigeons roost in the scaffolding holes of the remaining walls. 

 

Afterwards, we head for the Oudaya Kasbah and old medina. The monumental late 12^th century Bab Oudaya Gate, located at the northwest entrance to the Kasbah, is considered one of the finest examples of Moroccan architecture. Both the Kasbah and the adjacent medina border the river.

The medina consists mostly of narrow residential streets with whitewashed houses and occasional displays of handicrafts. Many Muslim refugees from Christian Spain settled here. Door knockers shaped like the hand of Fatima are common and are used as a sign of protection.

After a pleasant stroll, we stop at an outdoor café for mint tea and cookies.

Later in the afternoon, Abdou walks with me to the mellah, the old Jewish quarter of the medina. We locate a synagogue but it's not open now. According to a local man Abdou speaks to, there are only 45 Jews remaining in Rabat. At one time, there were 18 different synagogues in the mellah. 

Entrance to the mellah

Balconies are typical of houses in the mellah.

The street sign says "Rue du Mellah."

entrance to an old synagogue

The man then leads us to a nearby synagogue outside the walls of the medina. This synagogue is still in use for Shabbat services.

Dinner on our last evening in Rabat is quite memorable. At a restaurant called Dinarjat, traditional Moroccan music accompanies our meal. After sampling an array of Moroccan salads (eggplant; zucchini; carrots; potato; spinach; tomato & cucumber) and fried pastries stuffed with meat and chicken, we dine on a main course of stuffed vegetables and finish with a traditional dessert called jawhara, which consists of layers of fried phyllo dough soaked in cream, egg, and rosewater, and garnished with ground almonds. And, of course, the ubiquitous mint tea. It is truly decadent and delicious. 

 Then it’s time to go back to the hotel and pack up again. Tomorrow morning, we’ll be on our way to Fez! 

Twenty-Four Hours in Tangier

Tangier

After leaving Chefchaouen, we headed for Tangier, following a road than ran along the Mediterranean coast. With numerous resorts, the region is crowded in the summer months, but was deserted on this overcast and blustery day. Abdou called our attention to the storks’ nest perched at the top of towers.

 

Before we reached the actual city of Tangier, its sprawling port came into view through the mist. This industrial port, officially known as Tanger Med, is already the largest in Africa, and it is still under construction. It’s a city unto itself, with housing and other facilities for the thousands of workers employed there. Trucks waiting to enter are lined up on the road for miles. 

 

Once we were past the port, the sun broke through the clouds, illuminating lush green rolling hillsides dotted with yellow wildflowers. When we stopped for lunch at a restaurant with a view of the Mediterranean, I felt like I was back in familiar territory. 

 

Located at the northern edge of Morocco, a mere 20 miles across the Strait of Gibraltar from Tarifa, Spain, Tangier has its own distinctive flavor and unique mixture of the cultures that sets it apart from other Moroccan cities. 

 

At first glance, the profusion of hotels and casinos, parks, and beaches strung along the Corniche (the coastal road) reminded me of a European city. As our charming local guide, Mohamed, explained, most of Tangier is indeed modern. Yet it has a long and complicated history, due primarily to its strategic location. 

 

Tangier was originally settled by ancient Greek and Phoenician traders. (Archaeological evidence suggests that Jews came here as early as 572 BCE, following the destruction of the First Temple.) Like other Moroccan cities, in the first century BCE, it came under Roman rule. Later, it was overrun by the Vandals and the Visigoths, crossing over from Spain. 

 

The Arabs invaded the city in the early 8^th century and established their rule for the next few centuries. They were eventually toppled by the native Almoravid dynasty, of Amazigh (Berber) origin in 1075. Next came two other Amazigh dynasties, the Almohads, who came to power in 1149, and the Merenids, who ruled until 1471, when the Portuguese captured the city. It was actually given by the Portuguese king to King Charles II of England as a wedding gift about 200 years later. 

 

After a brief period of English rule, a local Sultan, Moulay Ismail, of the Alouite dynasty, captured Tangier and destroyed much of the city in the process. The Moroccans remained in control until the mid-19^th century when the imperialist European powers decided to divvy up Africa. 

 

This is when Tangier’s history diverged from that of other Moroccan cities. While the rest of Morocco came under French or Spanish control, Tangier became an independent international and tax-free city, a status it held from 1912 to 1956. It was divided into sectors administered by nine different countries, including Britain, France, Spain, and the U.S. During this period, Europeans and Americans flocked to the city, attracted by its anything-goes culture. As a result, Tangier developed a somewhat unsavory reputation. On the other hand, the city also drew artists and writers, such as Henri Matisse and Paul Bowles. 

 

With Morocco’s independence in 1956, Tangier once again became part of Morocco but went into a period of economic and cultural decline. It’s only in the 21^st century that Tangier has rebounded, with investment in industry, urban renewal projects, the construction of a new marina, and high-speed train service linking the city with Casablanca. 

 

Looking back at the twenty-hours we spent in Tangier, I’m amazed that we were able to see so many different sides of this fascinating city in such a short period of time. 

 

In a beautiful residential area where mimosa was in full bloom, we stopped at a coastal nature preserve to look out at Cape Spartel, known as the most northwesterly point of Africa. The lighthouse dates back to 1865. This is where the waters of the Straits of Gibraltar meet the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Mohamed, our local guide in Tangier

The Atlantic is over my right shoulder and the Strait is over my left shoulder.

 

In the center of the city, we admired the European architecture ... 

...before passing through a gate and entering the medina.

Note the mezuzah on the door frame.

 At our hotel, tucked into the medina, we enjoyed a fish tagine (merlan, or whiting) for dinner. Given its location on the coast, Tangier’s cuisine is known for its fish dishes. In fact, during a visit to the marketplace in the souk, I was impressed by the variety of fresh fish and seafood available.

Thanks to Abdou, I was able to gain access to a synagogue in the medina. The ornate Moshe Nahon Synagogue was built in 1878, a time when the Jewish population of Tangier numbered about 8,000 people. 

 

Not far from the walls of the medina, we stopped into St. Andrew’s, a small Anglican church that serves a multi-faith community (various Christian denominations, plus Jews and Muslims) and prides itself on its tolerance for all the Abrahamic religions. Its decor included Islamic calligraphy and Jewish symbols. Several notable expats are buried in its tranquil, leafy cemetery. 

We also visited the building of the American Legation in Morocco, where I learned that Morocco was the first nation to recognize the United States after it declared independence. (see document below) It was the first diplomatic property that the U.S. acquired and is recognized as the only National Historic Landmark outside U.S. territory. In addition, I learned about Operation Torch, the successful U.S. led military operation to liberate French North Africa, which was controlled by the Vichy-based regime, during World War II. 

 

Finally, we strolled along the Corniche (seaside promenade) to reach a restaurant where I enjoyed a delicious mixed grill for lunch. A ferry office was adjacent to the restaurant. 

And then, less than twenty-four hours after we arrived in Tangier, we headed to the city’s modern light-filled train station to catch a high-speed train to Rabat.

 

A Day in Tetouan

From Chefchaouen, it was a drive of an hour and a half to Tetouan (pronounced Tetwan). Tetouan may not attract large numbers of tourists, like Chefchaouen, but it is an important city of over half a million people on the Atlantic coast at the base of the Rif Mountains. Along the route to Tetouan, the landscape opened into expansive valleys. Abdou pointed out the almond and peach trees on the hillsides. Their branches were already adorned with pink and white blossoms. Other varieties of trees in the area, including Aleppo pines, cypress, and oaks, were introduced by the French. 

Before we reached our destination, Abdou explained that Tetouan is considered a conservative city, i.e. the people are more religious than in many other cities, such as Casablanca. We therefore expected to see more heavily veiled women. He also informed us that we would be accompanied by a police escort throughout our visit. This must have been a requirement of the Moroccan government, maybe for security reasons. In any case, our escort followed us quite discreetly. 

 

Tetouan served as the capital of the Spanish protectorate in northern Morocco from 1912 to 1956. Because of its location near the Iberian peninsula, it was in close contact with Andalusia beginning in the 8^th century. At one time, there was also a significant Sephardic (Iberian) Jewish community in the city. The Spanish influence is apparent in the modern part of the city’s white buildings with balconies, and the Seville orange trees that line the wide avenues. Abdou also pointed out a neo-Baroque Spanish church that was built during the protectorate. 

It was a raw and chilly day so we stopped to warm up with a cup of coffee at a café facing Tetouan’s expansive main plaza where the weather didn’t keep a group of boys from kicking around a soccer ball. 

We also took a quick look at the heavily guarded Royal Palace (one of several in the country) before stopping at a riad in the medina for a lunch of salad and fried fish. I recognized the sardines, squid and prawns. Among the less familiar but delicious species were merlan (I believe that’s French for whiting) and John Dory (aka St. Pierre). 

Afterwards, we followed Abdou through the souk (the shopping area of the medina).

He pointed out the markings on the ground, a graphic form of directions, if you can understand the symbols. Actually, signs posted at various places explained their meanings. 

In Chefchaouen, we had noticed the unusual straw hats with colorful pompoms worn by some of the women. Abdou explained that these are typically worn by Amazigh women when they are out working in the fields. Also, in the photo below, you'll see signs in the background that explain the meaning of the floor symbols. 

The highlight our visit was learning about traditional Moroccan decorative arts at a school, established in 1919, that is devoted to keeping these arts alive. It’s located just across from a gate to the old medina. Unfortunately, since it was the weekend, the school wasn’t in session, but Abdou arranged for us to visit the workshops anyway. Students enrolled in the four-year program begin their studies at age 12. They have classes Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm. They receive instruction in painting, calligraphy, wood carving, tile work (including mosaics), plaster carving, embroidery, metal work, and inlay. Abdou demonstrated and explained in detail the time-consuming methods and processes developed over the centuries. His knowledge was quite impressive! An exhibit at the school showed works completed by master artisans and past students.