Istanbul in the Rain

When we disembarked from our Bosphorus cruise, we walked about five minutes through the drizzle to the Rustem Paça Mosque, built in 1650 and known for its exquisite tile work. The interior of the mosque is covered with 6000 to 7000 Iznik tiles. Ulaş told us that Iznik tiles are the finest quality tiles made in Turkey. They are produced in the city of Nicaea. The vibrant hues come from lapis lazuli and turquoise and the dazzling shine comes from a borax glaze. Many designs include tulips. As a single flower, the tulip symbolizes the oneness of God. It was adopted by the Ottoman rulers as a symbol of their empire. Of all the mosques I saw in Turkey, this one was my favorite. 

 

The Rustem Paça Mosque isn’t often visited by tourists so it wasn’t crowded at all. While we were there, Ulaş reiterated that the message delivered by the imam at Friday prayers is provided by the government and it must be read exactly as written. No deviations are allowed. The purpose is to prevent imams from preaching extremism. 

 

Our next stop was the Spice Market, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar. The building housing the Spice Market was built between 1597 and 1664. While it was gray and gloomy outside, once inside the bazaar we were enveloped in golden light and intoxicating aromas. 

 

Ulaş brought us to the shop where his family has been buying its spices for years and introduced us to genuine Turkish delight. Previously, I’d thought Turkish delight was those gummy squares dusted with sugar. However, I was very pleasantly surprised by the Turkish delight we sampled. We tasted multiple varieties cut from long colorful logs. They included only natural ingredients, such as nuts, nuts, berries, coconut, cocoa, etc. And because they were sweetened with honey, they were soft as clouds when you bit into a piece. 

I was so eager to share my discovery with my family that I couldn’t resist filling a good-sized box with five different varieties. It added quite a bit of weight to my luggage – 3.5 pounds, to be exact!

 

There are also many shops selling gold jewelry and souvenirs (think those ubiquitous blue glass eyes of Medusa) in the Spice Bazaar. And the long colorful strands hanging at the entrance to some spice shops are dried vegetables.

 

Along with a few fellow travelers, I took a lunch break at the nearby Hamdi restaurant. Bread and olives appeared on the table while I was perusing the menu. I chose chicken kebabs on a bed of creamy puréed eggplant, which was a great non-carb alternative to more French fries and rice. 

After lunch, we set out by bus for the ultimate Istanbul shopping destination – the Grand Bazaar. The sprawling bazaar, which has been in existence since 1461, has 4500 shops, 200 streets, and 20 separate gates. For centuries, it was at the heart of the Ottoman economy. Nowadays, the Grand Bazaar is undeniably touristy but shopping there is an experience not to be missed. Before we entered, Ulaş gave us some pointers on bargaining. I didn’t have to bargain for the silver neck chain I bought because silver and gold are sold by weight. However, I practiced my bargaining skills at a shop where I bought a few inexpensive souvenirs for my grandchildren.

Rain was falling once again when we left the Grand Bazaar. Fortunately, our bus picked us up and transported us back to the center of Old City, where we explored the Hippodrome, a long open area that was the site of chariot races, a popular form of entertainment, during Roman and Byzantine times. Today, nothing remains of the seats that could accommodate 100,000 spectators. The gazebo fountain at the north end of Hippodrome was a gift from the German Kaiser Wilhelm II to the Ottoman Sultan in 1901.  

Roman Emperor Theodosius the Great brought the copper Serpent Column from the ancient Greek Temple of Apollo at Delphi and installed it at the Hippodrome in the late 4^th century CE. The piece was cast in the 5^th century BCE to commemorate the Greek victory over the Persians. Only the base of the column remains today. 

 

Theodosius also brought back (expropriated? stole?) an impressive Egyptian obelisk that originally stood at the Temple of Karnak in Luxor during the reign of Thutmose III. Only the top third of the pink granite obelisk remains. Although it’s over 3000 years old, the carving on the obelisk still looks perfectly clear.

 

The Sultanahmet Mosque, popularly known as the Blue Mosque, is located adjacent to the Hippodrome. The mosque was built in the early 1600s, and its nickname refers to the dominant color of its 21,000 Iznik tiles and 260 stained glass windows. I found the interior quite beautiful but I think it would look better with a blue carpet rather than a red one. 

 

Then we dashed through the rain and splashed through puddles on our way back to the hotel. I warmed up with creamy aubergine (eggplant) soup at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant. Finally, it was time to pack my bags for a morning departure to the airport. Next stop – Cappadocia!