Before this trip began, I tried to prepare myself by reading about the Balkan Wars in the 1990s. One of the books I chose was a highly praised novel called The Cellist of Sarajevo. The story takes place in Sarajevo during the siege of the city and is based on actual events. It described in graphic detail what life was like for the people of Sarajevo who risked their lives simply going out for basic necessities, such as food and water. I found the book so disturbing that I stopped reading it about half way through. If reading about life in Sarajevo during the siege was traumatizing, I couldn’t even begin to imagine what it must have been like to live through.
Knowing this recent history, I approached our visit to Sarajevo, capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a bit of trepidation as well as curiosity about what I would find. It was late afternoon when we reached the city. The approach brought us down a wide avenue with big complexes of high-rise apartment, commercial, and office buildings which date back to the post-World War 2 socialist era. The uninspired Soviet-style architecture, the density, and the sheer scale of the complexes reminded me of some of New York City’s subsidized housing developments.
Fortunately, this doesn’t describe all of Sarajevo. In addition to the sprawling socialist-era Sarajevo, where the majority of the population lives, there’s the smaller but much more interesting old historic center, which is part Ottoman and part Austro-Hungarian.
To understand Sarajevo today, it helps to know something about its history, especially its recent (20thcentury) history. I covered a lot of Bosnian history in my previous post (Welcome to Bosnia and Herzegovina) so here I’ll just mention some information related specifically to Sarajevo.
Sarajevo was founded by the Ottomans in the 15th century and it soon became an important trading center with a multi-ethnic population consisting of Muslims, Jews, and Christians (both Eastern Orthodox and Roman Catholic). For much of its long history, the city was known as the Jerusalem of Europe. You can still see traditional Ottoman architecture in the city’s mosques and old bazaars. Ottoman rule ended in 1878 when the Austro-Hungarian Empire took control of Bosnia and Herzegovina. During the 40 years they were here, the Austrians updated the infrastructure with electricity, railroads, bridges and trams, and brought Western culture and a new style of architecture.
The Austrian annexation also set off a wave of nationalist sentiment throughout the Balkans. The assassination of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo by a Bosnian Serb activist was the spark that triggered World War 1. The city was occupied by the Germans and Italians during World War 1 and was bombed by the Allies during World War 2. Most of Sarajevo’s Jewish population was deported and killed in the Holocaust.
The post-war socialist period was a time of growth and development for Sarajevo and its population of Bosniaks (Muslims), Serbs (Orthodox Christian), and Croats (Roman Catholics). When Bosnia and Herzegovina declared its independence from the Yugoslav federation in 1991, ethnic tensions asserted themselves. A paramilitary force of Bosnian Serbs, who were opposed to independence, attacked Sarajevo with the aid of the Yugoslav army (primarily Serbian), and held the city under siege for three years. Shelling and sniper fire resulted in 11,000 civilian deaths (including 1,600 children), and much of the city was destroyed. After the Dayton Accords brought an end to the Bosnian War in 1995, Sarajevo faced the monumental task of rebuilding.
In addition, the ethnic makeup of the city changed over the course of the war. Previously, Bosniaks had made up about 49% of the city’s population, with Bosnian Serbs the next largest group, followed by Croats. When fighting broke out, Bosnian Serbs fled to the eastern parts of the country near the Serbian border while the Sarajevo received an influx of Bosniaks who had been living in majority Serbian areas. Nowadays, over 80% of the city’s total population of 350,000 is Bosniak; Croats are the second largest group while Bosnian Serbs now make up only 3% of Sarajevo’s population. Still, the people of Sarajevo are extremely proud of their multicultural heritage. In fact, you can see these words on the pavement in the old city where the Ottoman area meets the Austrian area: Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures.
I was delighted that we were staying in a hotel in the old Ottoman part of Sarajevo. On our first evening in the city, the atmosphere reminded me of Istanbul, but on a smaller scale. Looking out the window of my hotel room, I could gaze across the river at the Emperor’s Mosque, the first mosque built after the Ottoman conquest and the oldest place of worship in the city.
At dinnertime, Kruno brought us to a casual restaurant serving typical Turkish-influenced cuisine. The ćevapi, sausage made of ground beef, were perfectly seasoned and bursting with flavor. Their assertive flavors contrasted well with the kajmak, a cheese that’s a cross between cottage cheese and sour cream, and ajvar, a red pepper and eggplant mixture. We had a traditional dessert called tufatia, a cored and peeled apple that is stuffed with walnuts, cooked in sugar syrup, and serving with a topping of whipped cream.
Afterwards, as daylight was fading, Kruno led us on a leisurely walk along the main pedestrian street than runs through the Ottoman and Austrian sections of the old city. The mild spring weather had brought out crowds of people, locals and tourists alike.
We strolled past two 19th century churches: the Roman Catholic Sacred Heart Cathedral and the Orthodox Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos.
We also paused at the World War 2 Memorial.
By the end of the evening, I had fallen under the spell of Sarajevo.
A beautiful blue sky greeted me on my first morning in Sarajevo. After a hearty breakfast from the buffet, our group set out for a guided walk through the city with our local guide, Adis.
Our first stop wasn’t far from the hotel. It was the corner near the Latin Bridge, so-called because it was located in the area where many “Latins,” i.e. Roman Catholics, lived. In 1914, Austro-Hungarian Archduke Franz Joseph and his wife were assassinated near the bridge.
The Archduke had come to Sarajevo to participate in military maneuvers. At this point in time, Austria-Hungary had ruled Bosnia for forty years. Since the late 1800s, nationalist movements all across Europe had been gaining strength. Since Serbia was an independent kingdom, the Bosnian Serbs were trying to achieve independence for Bosnia and Herzegovina.
A small group of young Bosnian Serbs planned to kill Franz Ferdinand during his visit to Sarajevo. They stationed themselves at various locations along the route his motor car was supposed to take. Nineteen-year old Gavrilo Princip stood at a corner near the Latin Bridge. When the Archduke’s driver took a wrong turn, Princip saw his opportunity. He fired, killing both the Archduke and his wife. Princip was immediately arrested and imprisoned, Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia, and World War 1 was underway.
The spot where Gavrilo Princip stood beside the building with the pink façade is marked on the pavement.
We walked along the river, which divides the city into northern and southern sections.
Sarajevo’s impressive City Hall faces the river. It was built in neo-Moorish style by the Austro-Hungarians.
Back in the Ottoman quarter, Adis led us through the colorful old bazaar area.
On the street of metal workers, we visited a workshop and watched a demonstration by a coppersmith. I bought a pair of copper earrings as a souvenir. Kruno had already advised us about the complicated money situation in Sarajevo. The official currency of Bosnia is the Convertible Mark (originally tied to the German mark). While some shops and restaurants will take credit cards, they’re not universally accepted in Sarajevo. Especially in the Ottoman part of the city, cash (Bosnian currency) is necessary. However, some places will also accept Euros. So tourists need to come armed with all payment options.
A former caravanserai was the setting for our mid-morning coffee break.
Next we visited the Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque, built in 1531. Adis told us that it’s modeled on Hagia Sophia in Istanbul and is the largest historical mosque in Bosnia. He added that Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims) are very European and don’t look or dress like stereotypical Muslims from the Middle East. For Bosniaks, being Muslim is more of a cultural identification. Adis stressed that Bosnia is a secular country and religion is considered a personal matter. Alcohol is readily available and restaurants are open during Ramadan.
I was hopeful that we could visit the Old Synagogue, which is now a museum in the old Ottoman quarter, but it was closed. Ladino-speaking Sephardic Jews from Spain and Portugal arrived in Sarajevo after the Inquisition in 1492. Beginning in the 17th century, Yiddish-speaking Ashkenazi Jews fleeing persecution in other parts Europe made their way to the city. The Jewish community prospered under Ottoman rule. In 1856, the Ottomans granted Jews full rights and equal status before the law. Prior to the Holocaust, Jews numbered about 12,000 people (about 20% of Sarajevo’s population) but today the Jewish community numbers only about 700 individuals.
We took a closer look at the Austrian part of the old city, including the Roman Catholic Cathedral. A statue of Pope John Paul II stands in front of the building. He visited the city in 1997, following the Bosnian War.
At noon, Kruno took us to a bakery in the Austrian quarter for a special snack – savory Ottoman-style pies called bureks that are popular throughout the Balkans. The flaky dough is stuffed with a filling of meat, or cheese, or potatoes, or vegetables. We tried all the varieties.
The day was still young after I filled up on bureks, so I set off to do some exploring on my own.
I decided to take the cable car up to the top of Trebević Mountain, overlooking the city. This is where some of the events of the 1984 Winter Olympics, such as the bobsled run, were held. The cable car brought me up a pine tree covered slope to an elevation of 3820 feet where I had a wonderful view of Saravejo spread out below.
After descending, I started feeling hungry again. Since I didn’t want to take the time to sit down in a restaurant, I stopped at a small döner kebab take out stand at the south end of the Latin Bridge. Eating the over-stuffed pita was certainly messy but it was so delicious.
From there, I walked a short distance to the Ashkenazi synagogue. It was built in 1902 and is Sarajevo’s only functioning synagogue. Unfortunately, by the time I arrived, it was closed for the day.
It was very pleasant walking back to the Ottoman quarter along the river.
Somehow, I managed to work up an appetite for our group dinner, at a traditional Bosnian restaurant in the Ottoman quarter. It was my fourth meal of the day – but who’s counting? All of the meal was delicious, starting with the roasted red peppers and sheep’s milk cheese and ending with Bosnian baklava. But the highlight of the dinner was klepe, a Bosnian dish similar to ravioli or dumplings. The dough is filled with a mixture of ground meat, onions, garlic, and paprika. The klepe are served hot with a creamy yogurt or sour cream sauce flavored with garlic and paprika.
The following morning, I learned a lot more about the Bosnian War when we drove out towards Sarajevo’s airport to see a tunnel referred to as the “tunnel of life” or the “tunnel of salvation” because it brought crucial supplies and weapons into the city during the siege.
To get there, we drove along Sarajevo’s main boulevard, the same road we’d taken on our way into the city on the day of our arrival. This is the road that’s often referred to as “sniper alley.” I’d heard the term before, but always imagined a narrow city street. I never thought it was actually this wide thoroughfare lined with tall residential buildings where the majority of the population lived.
When the war broke out in the spring of 1992, Serbs living in Bosnia, supported by the mostly Serbian Yugoslav People’s Army, began attacking Sarajevo. The Bosnian army came to the defense of the city, but with Bosnian Serb forces in control of the surrounding mountains, Sarajevo was subjected to nearly constant bombardment. An average of 330 bombs per day fell on the city, damaging or destroying most of the buildings.
During the siege, residents tried to maintain their normal lives as much as possible. Hospitals and schools relocated to shelters and cultural events such as concerts and films took place underground. However, Bosnian Serb snipers hid in the ruins of buildings and shot at civilians who ventured out in search of basic necessities, making daily life dangerous for everyone.
During this time, there was no way in or out of Sarajevo until a tunnel was built, connecting Sarajevo with free Bosnian territory.
The entrance to the tunnel was adjacent to a small house near the airfield. Sarajevo’s airport was a neutral zone, open only to United Nations flights bringing humanitarian aid. We could still see the bullet holes on the side of the house.
Before entering the tunnel, we saw exhibits and photos showing the work involved in the tunnel’s construction as well as what life was like during the siege. Working with basic hand tools (shovels), it took four months for volunteers working from both ends to dig out the 800 meter (half-mile) long tunnel. The average height inside the tunnel was only four feet, meaning that those using the tunnel couldn’t stand upright.
After donning hard hats, we entered the tunnel.
Today, a NATO base next to the airfield is still in operation. NATO forces offer organizational support to the Bosnian army and destroy land mines left over from the war.
One of the most anticipated moments of my entire trip was seeing the Sarajevo Haggadah in the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina . The Haggadah is a book used by Jews at the Passover Seder (a ritual meal) to retell the story of the exodus from slavery in Egypt. The Sarajevo Haggadah is an illuminated manuscript that contains the traditional text of the Haggadah, rendered in beautiful calligraphy, accompanied by 34 pages of exquisite painted illustrations on parchment. It was created in Spain in the mid-14th century, most likely as a wedding gift, and was brought out by Sephardic Jews fleeing the Inquisition. Many of them went first to Venice and later found refuge in Ottoman lands. The Haggadah eventually made its way to the city of Sarajevo, where it was discovered in the late 19th century.
The Haggadah is so valuable and so fragile that it is only displayed on an extremely limited schedule. I was fortunate that my visit to Sarajevo coincided with one of the time periods (the first Saturday of the month, from 12 noon until 2pm). At other times, it is stored in a secure underground location.
After our morning tunnel visit, I arrived at the museum a few minutes before noon. Along with a small group of people, I waited until a staff member opened the door to a special room devoted to the Haggadah. There, right in front of me, was the legendary book, open to a page of beautiful paintings. Of course, it was behind a security barrier of glass, but I was thrilled to be standing mere inches from the actual Haggadah, which is over 700 years old. It’s not a large volume; each calfskin page measures 6.5 inches by 9 inches.
The museum attendant told us about how the Haggadah came to the museum when it was discovered and how the museum director prevented it from falling into the hands of the Nazis during World War 2. The museum has made copies of the Haggadah which were available for only 25 Euros – yes, I bought a copy.
If you’re interested in the story of the Sarajevo Haggadah, there’s a wonderful novel, People of the Book by Geraldine Brooks, that imagines a possible journey the Haggadah made from the Iberian Peninsula to its eventual home in Sarajevo.
I spent some time wandering through the other galleries in the museum, looking at artifacts from over 2000 years of the country’s history.
The Greek influence spread throughout the Balkans in the 3rd-1st centuries BCE.
During the 2nd century CE, Bosnia was inhabited by various Illyrian tribes.
Glassware arrived during the period of Roman domination.
There was a large collection of artifacts from the medieval period.
I was especially interested in seeing the mosaics.
Four different alphabets were used in medieval Bosnia: Greek, Latin, Glagolitic, and Cyrillic. These are examples of Glagolitic script, which is no longer in use.
We spent our final evening in Sarajevo visiting local families and joining them for dinner. All of the families lived in the socialist era high-rise apartment buildings that were clustered around the main boulevard, aka sniper alley. From Elvira, a special education teacher who spoke excellent English, I learned a lot about living conditions in Sarajevo and how her family survived during the siege.
The apartment actually belonged to Elvira’s parents. She has a similar apartment nearby that she shares with her husband and three children. From the outside, these apartment buildings look quite grim, especially as their façades still bear scars from the recent Bosnian War. A typical apartment measures about 600 to 800 square feet, which is quite small by U.S. standards.
Elvira’s mother had prepared a multi-course meal consisting of chicken soup with vegetables, chicken shish kebab, zucchini, potatoes mashed with smoked cheese, cabbage salad, and the best baklava I’ve ever tasted. To go along with the dinner, we drank refreshing homemade elderberry juice.
We stayed for three hours and the conversation never lagged. In addition to owning their own apartment, Elvira and her husband also have a vacation house about half an hour outside of the city. When we asked about religion, she said she considers herself Muslim but in a secular way. For example, she doesn’t drink alcohol or wear shoes in the house. What I found interesting is that she told us her mother was from a “mixed marriage” (Christian and Muslim parents). Both Elvira and her mother said they were very disturbed by the rising nationalism in Europe. According to Elvira, it was better when people didn’t care what their background was and they just mixed together freely. I remembered Kruno telling us that most people who live in the former Yugoslavia are not actually nationalistic. It’s the politicians who try to inflame ethnic and nationalist sentiments for their own benefit.
We spoke briefly about the years of the siege when Elvira, her sister, and her parents lived together in the small apartment on the 15th floor. For over three years, they had no electricity or water. When the city was being bombed, they would go downstairs to a nearby underground shelter. In order to get water, they had to walk a kilometer or more to a place where they could fill containers. They considered themselves lucky that Elvira’s father had built a small cast-iron stove to provide them with occasional heat. When we asked what they burned in the stove, Elvira replied, the furniture, their clothing, whatever they could find. It sounds unbearable, yet they survived the trauma of the war and were full of hope and joy.
It was late when we said farewell to our hosts. Back in the old city, the Ćumurija Bridge was decked with colored lights that were reflected in the river. I was truly sorry to be leaving Sarajevo. There will always be a place in my heart for this special city and its extraordinarily resilient people.
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