An Arizona Adventure

May 27, 2014 – An Arizona Adventure

One week ago, my friend Gale and I were sitting by the banks of Oak Creek in Sedona, enjoying a gourmet breakfast and sipping coffee at a very upscale resort called L’Auberge.  And no, we didn’t stay there.  We couldn’t afford the rates, but we treated ourselves to a decadently delicious breakfast that included melt-in-your-mouth beignets with raspberries and fresh cream.  We had driven up from Tucson the previous day and spent a pleasant afternoon strolling around town, shopping in numerous jewelry and craft stores, and admiring the stunning views of the red rocks.  

View from our hotel balcony in Sedona

At L'Auberge in Sedona for breakfast

 After our Sedona breakfast, we drove to the northeastern corner of Arizona, stopping in the Petrified Forest National Park, where we braved whipping winds to explore the fossilized remains of trees from millions of years ago.  We also caught a glimpse of several 1950s era motels, including the Wigwam Motel, on the old Route 66. 

Petrified Forest

 

The Wigwam Motel in Holbrook, Arizona (on Route 66)

 Our route took us through an unearthly landscape, with few plants, and even fewer signs of animal or human habitation.  However, the hills rose in horizontal stripes of rust, cream, pale green, and tan, giving the area its nickname, the Painted Desert.  There are very few towns in this area.  When we needed to revive ourselves, we couldn’t even find a Starbucks.  We had to settle for ice cream from a local supermarket, where all of the signs were in Navajo as well as English. 

The Painted Desert

Signs in Navajo at the supermarket in Kayenta, Arizona

We were so busy enjoying the scenery that we didn’t pay much attention to the car’s navigation system.  But when we thought we should be nearing our destination, the “town” of Chinle, the onboard navigation system started playing tricks on us.  First of all, it suddenly switched the time by an hour, and then it couldn’t find any of the roads we were looking for.  The reason for the problem soon became clear.  We had crossed onto land that was part of the Navajo reservation, which covers a vast amount of territory in the northeastern part of the state.  While the state of Arizona doesn’t switch to daylight saving time, the entire reservation, which also covers land in Utah, Colorado and New Mexico, makes the change.  We originally expected to arrive at the Sacred Canyon Lodge at 5:30 p.m. but it was actually 6:30 p.m. when we checked in.  

On the road to Chinle (near Canyon de Chelly)

Blue corn pancake at Sacred Canyon Lodge in Chinle

 Fortunately, the lodge’s restaurant was open until 7 p.m.  Unfortunately, the choices were limited, and chicken fried steak, Salisbury steak, green chili stew, and fry bread didn’t sound very appealing.  Thank goodness for the lonely plate of tuna fish salad on lettuce.  Breakfast offerings were definitely more interesting.  A big puffy blue corn pancake gave me the energy I needed for our morning exploration of nearby Canyon de Chelly.  We took a two-hour long private jeep tour since there are no actual roads through the canyon.  Our driver, who spoke the Navajo language, made frequent stops so we could get a look at the ruins of Anasazi cliff dwellings (more than 1000 years old), petroglyphs made by Anasazi, Pueblo and Navajo inhabitants of the canyon, amazing vistas and rock formations.  We also saw the houses of Native Americans who still raise animals and grow crops in the canyon.  Of course, these structures were quite small and without electricity or running water.  In addition, almost all of canyon dwellers also have houses on the rim of the canyon.  

  While Canyon de Chelly was beautiful and impressive, our next destination was absolutely awe-inspiring.  As we approached Monument Valley by car, the rock formations appeared to rise out of the mists (actually dust) in the surreal desolate landscape.   

On the road to Monument Valley

Wisely, Gale had booked our room at The View hotel nearly a year ago.  This is another Navajo-owned property, the only hotel that is actually located in the valley.  What makes it so special is that every single room has a balcony looking out at the incredible view.  The hotel was quite a bit more modern than Chinle’s Sacred Canyon Lodge, and we greatly appreciated The View’s non-historic plumbing.  Meals in the hotel’s restaurant, however, featured many of the same choices.  Rather than face another dinner of tuna salad, I chose the green chili chicken stew.  I was hoping for something with a distinctive Native American flavor, but the mixture of chicken, green chilis and root vegetables was very bland.  I guess I’ll have to go back to the Mitsitam Café at the Smithsonian’s American Indian Museum for some truly interesting Native American food.  But back to northern Arizona – you don’t come to this region for the food.  The scenery of Monument Valley easily makes up for what the cuisine lacks.   

Looking out from our balcony at The View in the late afternoon

Looking out from our balcony at The View in the late afternoon

Morning sun on the red rocks

Our 3-hour morning jeep tour of Monument Valley once again took us bouncing over rocks and ledges.  We had to hold on tight so we weren’t thrown from the open vehicle on several occasions.  (After this experience, I will never complain about the potholes in our neighborhood again.)  Words and even photographs can’t begin to capture the scale, the beauty and the majesty of the valley.  Millions of years of water and wind have carved formations that the distinctive rock formations.  The valley holds a certain spiritual power and it’s easy to see why Native Americans used various sites for ceremonial purposes.  In the 20^th century, Hollywood discovered Monument Valley.  Dozens of movies, ranging from westerns to science fiction, have been filmed there. 

After a morning scrambling over the terrain in the bracing wind, I was looking forward to a Navajo taco for lunch.  This Native American specialty turned out to be a piece of fry bread topped with pink beans, iceberg lettuce, chopped tomatoes, and shredded cheese.  Then it was off to Flagstaff for the final leg of our road trip.  While we were driving south, we noticed that at least half the sky was covered with what appeared to be a thick cloud.  It was only when we reached our hotel in Flagstaff that we learned about the forest fire that had broken out near Oak Creek in Sedona the day after our departure from that town.  Even with the smoke, the scent of fresh pine trees filled the air in Flagstaff.  The town, which is at nearly 7000 feet above sea level, has a charming and historic downtown area.  

Historic Flagstaff

 As we drove back from Flagstaff to Tucson, the elevation dropped to about 2400 feet above sea level.  Pine trees gave way to saguaro cactuses and other desert plants.  

Desert flowers in bloom in Tucson

Back at Gale’s house, as I was preparing to pack for my return trip, I found holes in the soles of my hiking boots.  (Granted, they were three years old.)  Rather than wear them on the plane, I left them behind for the trash collectors in Tucson.  But I’ve already gone to REI and replaced them with a new pair of Merrells.  Now I’m ready for my next adventure.

Another Birthday for Elliott

May 25, 2014 – Another Birthday for Elliott

Although I had a wonderful time in Arizona (details about my trip will be in a separate post), I was happy to be back for Elliott’s 102^nd birthday celebration.  We didn’t have a big party this year, but a series of smaller events made this a very memorable weekend. 

Elliott chose the restaurant 2941 for a special birthday dinner on Saturday night.  The chef dazzled us with mushroom tartine, flatbread with escargots and pesto, and a creative take on Caesar salad for starters.  Next, since Marshall was with us, we shared a trio of main courses: soft shell crabs, rockfish, and halibut.  Each dish was extraordinary – in concept, in presentation, and in flavor.  While we were finishing up the dessert course, our waiter surprised Elliott with a mini-birthday cake.  

Rockfish, pickled vegetables, tapenade, and more!

Strawberry-rhubarb tarte at 2941

On Sunday morning, Elliott had his usual oatmeal, but this time, it was extra-delicious because I prepared it in our new kitchen.  The remodeling work isn’t one hundred percent complete (a replacement cabinet won’t be delivered until mid-week, and then the remaining granite has to be installed), but all of the appliances are operational.  In the photo, you see Elliott about to retrieve a dark chocolate Milky Way candy bar from the new refrigerator.  He has his own designated cookie cabinet, too.  

And what’s a birthday celebration without a trip to Wegman’s?  We went there for Sunday lunch and to get Elliott’s favorite pie, strawberry-rhubarb.  Unfortunately, Wegman’s didn’t have the strawberry-rhubarb pie so we substituted an apple pie with vanilla ice cream, which we enjoyed on Sunday afternoon with friends Anne and Mike. 

Matt joined us on Sunday evening for a Memphis-style barbeque dinner at Red, Hot and Blue in Fairfax City.  Elliott ordered half a slab of ribs and managed to get through most of it.  After all the barbecued meat, coleslaw, baked beans, corn muffins, fried okra, sweet potato fries and hush puppies, we were too stuffed to order dessert.  

In addition, numerous phone calls and birthday cards (paper and electronic) from friends and family helped mark the joyous occasion.  Thanks to everyone who helped Elliott celebrate his 102^nd. 

The Almost Finished Kitchen

May 10, 2014 – The Almost Finished Kitchen

It’s hard to believe that it’s already been three weeks since we demolished the old kitchen.  Our new kitchen isn’t completed yet, but we’re making steady progress.  During the past few days, we made several trips to Home Depot, of course, where Elliott had fun sawing strips of quarter round.  We don’t have countertops yet (nor a working stove or sink) but I’ve started unpacking boxes and filling the cabinets.  My cookbooks are settling nicely into their new home.  We’re both delighted with the new look.  Most importantly, our stress level has dropped and Elliott and I are talking to each other like normal human beings again.  

The kitchen at the end of week 3

 The granite won’t be installed until next Friday, so we’ll continue using our temporary kitchen for at least another week.  It hasn’t felt like a hardship for me, but Elliott is getting a little tired of his limited meal options.  Since I knew he was feeling deprived, I took him out for some “real food” last Friday evening.  At Artie’s in Fairfax, Elliott ordered a Caesar salad and a 24 oz. prime rib with a loaded baked potato, followed by crème brulee for dessert.  You can see how pleased he was: 

This is how you feed a growing boy!

We shared the creme brulee.

Fortunately, Elliott’s leftovers will last for a couple of days because I came home on Saturday with the leftovers from the second session of my Indian fish cooking class.  This time, the theme was favorite foods from Mumbai.  Since Mumbai has a very diverse population (Hindus, Christians, Muslims, Parsees, Chinese and Japanese immigrants, etc.), you can find a wide range of cuisines there.  Under the direction of our wonderfully talented and entertaining chef/instructor, Devaki Das, we prepared three dishes: fish filets marinated in a coconut chutney and cooked in banana leaves (a Parsee wedding dish), spicy fried prawns, and a buttery pulao (basmati rice) with prawns and peas.  To obtain the richly complex flavors, we used the Magic Bullet to grind the spices for the masalas (spice mixtures) and marinades.  Grinding an array of whole spices (coriander seeds, fenugreek, ajwain seeds, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom seeds) for each dish brought out richly complex flavors that I’ve never been able to produce at home.   

Devaki Das using the Magic Bullet to create the coconut chutney

I was anticipating this Mother's Day this year with a bit of anxiety.  When I visited my mother earlier in the week, I brought her a framed photo from her wedding day (May 7, 1947).  She looked at the picture with a puzzled expression.  She couldn’t remember when it was taken.  It’s heartbreaking to see how much of her essence has slipped away.  Her smile is there, but there’s a vacant look in her eyes and I know I’m losing her.  

With Katie in front of my Mother's Day tree (a gift last year)

Today started well, however.  While I ate my oatmeal, Grieg’s piano music on the radio lifted my spirits.  Then a walk in the woods – looking up through the leafy canopy, smelling the green, swinging my arms, crunching gravel under my feet, and exchanging greetings with a mourning dove perched on a wooden fence – brought a feeling of calm.  A sweet card and a phone call from Elisa, and a message from Debbie reminded me how lucky I am.   

Elisa at the Met's Gala for the Costume Institute last Monday

The day continued to improve with a Mother’s Day lunch at Passion Fin.  Being together with Katie, Elliott and our wonderful boys (Matt and Marshall) made this occasion very special for me.  From the pan-Asian menu, we selected lettuce wraps, seaweed salad, miso soup, deluxe rainbow rolls, sesame chicken, Thai basil chicken, and teriyaki salmon.  We concluded our feast with three flavors of mochi, the Japanese rice cakes filled with ice cream (strawberry, red bean, and green tea).  

Deluxe Rainbow Roll at Passion Fin

Fishing in India, and Other Events of the Past Week

May 4, 2014 – Fishing in India, and Other Events of the Past Week

I’ll start with a question:  Why wasn’t Elliott thrilled when I brought home a freshly cooked meal yesterday afternoon?  Answer:  Because I was bringing him the three dishes I prepared in my Indian fish cooking class.  Not surprisingly, he took one look at the Goan Fish Curry, Goan Fried Fish, and Tellicherry Pepper Prawns and decided that he’d have peanut butter on matzoh for lunch.  Don’t worry, Elliott.  You’ll have another chance to try these delicious specialties of southern India since I now have the recipes and I’ll be able to recreate them as soon as our kitchen is finished. 

Some of the ingredients we used

The instructor for my cooking class, Devaki Das

Speaking of the kitchen, the work is progressing fairly well.  The painting is finished, the recessed lights are in the ceiling, and most of the cabinets are in place.  There have been a few unexpected issues that need to be addressed, but nothing major.  The new appliances will arrive this coming week.  

The kitchen at the end of Week 2

The weather has turned warm and spring-like, but instead of spending this beautiful Sunday afternoon outside, we stayed in the house to play the electric game.  This is how it works:  You start by turning on every single light and appliance in your house.  If possible, plug nightlights into all unoccupied electrical wall outlets.  Then, one at a time, you turn off the switches in the electrical control box.  Each time you turn off a switch, you run around the house to see which lights and appliances went off.  This game took us a couple of hours, after which I made a spreadsheet with all the information and drew up a diagram to go along with it.  Now doesn’t that sound like fun?

Fortunately, some of our other recent activities have been a little more entertaining.  For example, on Friday, we made a return visit to the PBS studios in Arlington.  Elliott has become quite a celebrity there.  Once again, we received an extremely warm welcome from the entire crew.  On this particular occasion, we were thrilled to meet Gwen Ifill and to watch the taping of Washington Week in Review. 

Elliott in the control room at PBS studios

With  Gwen Ifill, host of Washington Week in Review

My class at George Mason finishes this week, but I'm sure that Elliott and I will find plenty of new adventures to keep us busy.  

Feeling young and reckless on campus