I’m so glad I decided to take the optional trip to Siena. I was considering skipping it. When Elliott and I were in Florence for a week in 2010, we took the train to Siena for the day. I have only vague memories of a large strangely-shaped main square, a black and white cathedral, and something about a horse race. So I thought Siena deserved a second look.
in Siena with Elliott (2010)
We set out right after breakfast on the 90-minute (73 mile or 117 kilometer) drive to Siena. On the first part of the drive, we traveled east through the Tuscan countryside in the direction of Florence. The second part of the drive took us south through Chianti country, another part of Tuscany. (Let's hope those clouds disappear soon.)
Since we were going to be visiting several of Tuscany’s main cities over the next few days, Lodo used our time in the bus to give us some historical background about the region. In the 13th century, Pisa was the dominant power. Siena was also powerful and it competed with Florence to control the Chianti territory, including the road that pilgrims took when traveling to Rome. This road, called the Via Francigena, carried goods and ideas as well as people and generated a large amount of money for the cities and towns along the way, including Siena.
The independent Republic of Siena was established in 1125. In 1406, the Republic of Florence defeated the Maritime Republic of Pisa. At the beginning of the 14th century, Siena was more powerful than the Republic of Florence. This dynamic began to change in 1434 when the ambitious Medici family took control of Florence’s city government. In 1494, the Medici rulers were expelled from Florence and a republic was re-established. During this chaotic time in Florence, Pisa rebelled against Florentine rule and reclaimed its independence. This led to a 15-year war between Florence and Pisa. In 1509, Pisa surrendered and came under the control of Florence.
The Medici family re-took direct control of Florence in 1512 and established the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Pisa was absorbed into the Grand Duchy. In 1555, the Grand Duchy, led by Cosimo I, defeated Siena and it, too, was incorporated into the Medici-controlled territory. Both Pisa and Siena remained part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany until the unification of Italy in 1860.
Now, about Siena’s famous horse race, called the Palio, Lodo first had to tell us about the city’s contrada system. A contrada is an urban district. The system began in the Middle Ages as a way of supplying troops for the defense of the city. At one time there were over 50 contrada but that number has shrunk to 17.
The contrada functions like an enlarged family or local civic organization, planning social events and providing assistance to members who need help. Each contrada has its own animal symbol and colors and even its own church. Nowadays, life cycle events, religious holidays, wine festivals, etc. are celebrated within the contrada. Babies are born and baptized into their neighborhood’s contrada and they remain part of it for life. Although there are occasionally “mixed marriages,” Lodo added, traditionally they were not common.
It’s no surprise that there’s intense year-round competition among the contradas. In earlier times, they competed in bullfights. Once bullfights were outlawed, they were replaced first by buffalo races and then by horse races in the 17thcentury. This is the origin of the Palio, the horse race that’s held in Siena twice every summer (July and August). Costumed riders representing ten of the city’s contradas (districts) race their horses three and a half times around the main plaza. Oh, and they ride bareback! The race, which only lasts a few minutes, draws huge crowds of spectators and is followed by big parties for the winning contrada.
The sun was shining brightly when our bus reached the outskirts of Siena around 10:30 in the morning. Since tourist buses weren’t allowed in the historic center, we had to park near this stone wall. It’s part of the Fortezza Medicea, the 16th century fortification built by the Medici rulers at the northern edge of the city.
From here, we followed the crowds walking towards the historic center. Soon, the dome and the bell tower of Siena’s cathedral came into view.
Once we reached the historic area, one of the first shops we saw had a display of the colorful flags of the different contradas that compete in the Palio.
A local guide, Agnese, accompanied us as we wended our way through the narrow streets that were already filling up with tourists.
She explained that Siena is very “up and down” because it’s built on three hills. Before the Romans arrived, it was inhabited by the Etruscans. The first walls around the city were built around the year 1000 CE. The medieval brick walls, built in the 13th and 14th century, were intended to protect Siena from Florence. They stretch for 4.3 miles (7 kilometers) and are still in good condition.
From Agnese, I learned that Siena claims the oldest surviving bank in the world. The Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena was established in 1472. This 14th century Gothic-style palazzo, located in the Piazza Salimbeni, serves as its headquarters. The statue in the plaza depicts the Italian priest, economist, and politician Salustio Bandini, who was born in Siena in 1677. He donated his entire collection of books to the city’s public library.
Below is the Piazza Tolomei with the Palazzo Tolomei, residence of the wealthy Tolomei family and one of the oldest buildings in Siena. The Piazza Tolomei is where bankers and money lenders set up their wooden tables (banchi) to do business in the 13th century. They would exchange currency, handle deposits, and keep track of transactions in the open air. Since the plaza was located on the main road used by pilgrims and merchants passing through Siena, they had a lot of customers. The English word “bank” is derived from the medieval Italian word banchi, which means tables.
The Church of San Cristoforo is also located on the Piazza Tolomei. It was originally built as a Romanesque-style church in the 11th century. Its brick neo-classical façade dates back to 1800.
As we were leaving the Piazza Tolomei, I noticed a column with an unusual statue of a wolf at the top. Agnese explained that this is the historic symbol of Siena. The she-wolf is nursing the twins Romulus and Remus, legendary founders of Rome. According to legend, Siena was founded by the sons of Remus, who fled Rome after their uncle Romulus killed their father. They supposedly brought a statue of the she-wolf with them.
In the window of the Nannini pastry shop, we saw examples of pan forte, a dessert associated with Siena. The dense and chewy cake, loaded with fruit and nuts, was invented in 1879 to honor Queen Margaret of Italy. It’s traditionally served at Christmas.
There were 15th century Renaissance-era sculptures on buildings throughout the historic center.
We peered down quiet alley-like side streets.
Agnese led us past the 14th century Baptistery of San Giovanni.
The Baptistery was only a few steps from the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Construction of the cathedral began in the 11th century and was mostly completed by 1339. The architectural style combines Romanesque and Gothic elements. Alternating stripes of white and greenish-black marble on the façade are a reference to the colors on Siena’s coat of arms.
This is one of the spots I remember visiting with Elliott. But back in 2010, we sat on the steps of the cathedral without actually going inside. This time, however, I was eager to see the interior. Just inside the entrance is a floor mosaic that features the symbol of Siena, a she-wolf nursing the twins Romulus and Remus.
The interior color scheme with its walls and columns of white and black marble horizontal stripes echoed the façade.
The sheer size and magnificence of the cathedral are overwhelming.
The pulpit, dating from 1260, is made of marble from Carrara.
A side chapel features a statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello.
In the left nave of the cathedral, Agnese pointed out the Piccolomini Altarpiece, carved by Michelangelo in the early 1500s. It features the saints Peter, Paul, Gregory, and Pius.
Of special note is the mosaic floor, which consists of 56 panels made of local white, gray, and yellow marble. The panels depict historical events. They were created by over 40 different artists over a period of several centuries. Visitors to the cathedral must walk on strategically placed wooden planks to avoid stepping on the mosaics.
I felt as if I’d stepped inside a jewel box when I entered the cathedral’s Piccolomini Library. Its collection of dazzling artwork includes frescoes by Pinturicchio, several medieval manuscripts, and an ancient Roman marble sculpture of the Three Graces (a copy of the Greek original). The library was built by Pope Pius III in the early 1500s and dedicated to his uncle, Enea Piccolomini, who later became Pope Pius II. Scenes from his life are portrayed in the paintings.
Then it was back out into the heat and sunshine and a walk down one of the steep sloping streets that led to Siena’s main plaza, the Piazza del Campo.
The piazza is vast and has a unique arc shape. I remembered it from my visit to Siena in 2010, but at that time, it wasn’t drenched in sunlight as it was today. (2 photos below from 2010)
There were plenty of tourists in the piazza and lots of souvenir stands, too. Looking out at the wide expanse, I tried to imagine what it would look like on Palio days. The stones of the piazza would be covered with sand. Crowds would be wildly cheering on the jockeys. It must be quite a scene.
The tall tower alongside the piazza is the Torre del Mangia. It was built in the 14th century and is attached to the Palazzo Pubblico, the seat of the Republic of Siena’s government. If I’d been feeling more energetic, I might have climbed (over 400 steps) to the top.
We had a few more hours to enjoy lunch (gnocchi with mascarpone and spinach) and to explore Siena on our own. Because the sun was so strong, I stayed on the shady commercial streets above the Piazza del Campo. I was hoping to find some local handicrafts but most of the shops I passed were similar to those you’d find at any suburban mall in the United States. The only purchase I made was two small pan forte to bring home.
Before we boarded our bus to return to Montecatini, Lodo shared another Sienese specialty. These are ricciarellicookies made with almond flour or almond paste. The other ingredients are sugar, egg whites, and honey. They originated in the 14th century.
I took advantage of the bus ride back to take a much-needed nap. Our group dinner at a restaurant on Montecatini’s main plaza was a delicious but carb-heavy meal that included excellent bread with olive oil; risi e bisi (rice with peas); several kinds of Tuscan-style pizza with a crackling thin and crispy crust; and Italian cheesecake for dessert. (679, 681, 2, 4)
I probably consumed a week’s worth of calories at that one meal but it was worth it. And the return trip to Siena, after 16 years, was definitely worth it, too.
