A Lovely Day in Lucca

Lucca was the last of the Tuscan cities we visited on this trip. I knew nothing about Lucca until I did a little research before I left home and discovered that the city was founded by the Romans in 180 BCE. From the 11^th to the 14^thcenturies, Lucca’s main industries were silk production and trade. During the Renaissance, international merchant banking became important as well. Lucca’s well-preserved encircling walls, which date back to the Renaissance era, were built to defend the city from the power-hungry Medici of Florence, located about 58 miles (94 kilometers) to the east. Since Lucca wasn’t a bombing target during the war, it’s retained much of its character as a Tuscan Renaissance town and its historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nowadays, Lucca has a population of about 80,000. Since it isn’t primarily a tourist town, it was described as “relaxed and charming,” which sounded very appealing. 

 

It only took half an hour to travel the approximately 20 miles (32.4 kilometers) from Montecatini to Lucca by bus. On the way through the flat landscape, we passed many paper factories. Lodo told us that the main industry of the area is paper production and he joked that people call Lucca the toilet paper capital of Italy.

 

Our local guide, Consuelo, met us where our bus had to park outside the walls. Then we set out on foot for the historic center.   

About 9000 people still live in the old city center, i.e. within the walls. Since it was a Saturday, many local people from the surrounding area had come to spend the day here, enjoying the markets, shopping, dining, and recreational activities. Of course, there were some tourists as well. 

We began our walking tour at the Basilica of San Paulino. Its official name is the Church of Saints Paulinus and Donatus, the city’s two patron saints. The Renaissance style church, rebuilt in 1515, sits on an 8^th century sacred site. Inside the church, Consuelo called our attention to the Coronation of the Virgin, a 1475 painting by Baldassarre di Biagio. In the lower part of painting, the artist depicted Lucca as it appeared during Middle Ages, with all of its defensive towers and its limestone covered walls.

We moved on to the Piazza Cittadella where we saw the house where Giacomo Puccini, my favorite opera composer, was born. A statue in the center of the piazza shows him sitting and smoking a cigar. From Consuelo, I learned that he was a real ladies’ man as well as a cigar smoker who died of throat cancer. 

At the Piazza San Michele, the former site of a Roman forum, we admired the Church of San Michele. The Romanesque and Gothic style church dates back to 1370. The façade is richly decorated and sculpted with scenes showing the struggle between good and evil. We all noticed how the columns differed in terms of color and decoration. 

Many attractive restaurants, cafes, and shops were located in the broad square.

 

It was a one-minute walk from the Piazza San Michele to the smaller Piazza Salvatore.  

Then it was time to explore Lucca’s defensive walls. The original walls were built in 180 BCE, during Roman times, but they were significantly enlarged during the Middle Ages. They were expanded again and rebuilt during the Renaissance, in 1513, forming a 2.6 mile (4.2 kilometer) ring around the city. Due to changes in warfare, such as the development of powerful cannons, the thickness of the new walls was increased to 20 meters (66 feet) and platforms 50 meters (164 feet) wide were added. When the French took control of Lucca around the year 1800, they planted trees along the top of the earthen ramparts. 

 

A short climb brought us up to the top of the walls on the north side of the city. The defensive structure has been transformed into a delightful park-like promenade that loops around the historic city center. Judging by what we witnessed, the tree-lined promenade is a popular destination for people of all ages. We saw people strolling, pushing baby carriages, biking, picnicking, playing music, and even dancing. And looking out over the historic center, we saw the bell tower of the Basilica of San Frediano. It’s one of the oldest buildings in Lucca.

on top of the walls, looking away from the city center

 

One noticeable building right inside that walls was the Pfanner Palace. This private home was built in 1670 by an Italian who later sold it to the German Pfanner family who got rich when they opened a beer garden.  

 

After enjoying some time on the walls, we descended back into the city center. 

Consuelo led us down Lucca’s longest shopping street, Via Fillungo. When we reached the 12^th century Basilica of San Frediano, I paused to admire the beautiful mosaic above the main entrance to the church. 

A few minutes later, we arrived at the site where a Roman anfiteatro, i.e. a circular theater or coliseum, once stood. After the collapse of Roman empire, the coliseum was turned into an open-air quarry and eventually just the brick skeleton remained. In modern times, the ruins have been turned into apartments and shops.

Behind the buildings is a sprawling market square where one of Lucca’s historical festivals was going on. Lucca Historiae Fest (aka Rievocando Lucca or Recalling Lucca) celebrates 2000 years of the city’s history. Colorfully costumed participants paraded through the square as locals and tourists looked on.  

Historical festivals aren’t the only gatherings that take place in Lucca. Every year, the city hosts Europe’s largest Comicon event. 

 

As we continued our walk, we approached another one of Lucca’s famous towers, the Guinigi Tower. It was commissioned by the wealthy Guinigi family of silk merchants and bankers. Consuelo told us that at one time there were 110 towers in the city. What makes the Guinigi Tower unique is the garden at the top. The three tallest trees are 200-year old oaks. If you’re willing to climb 230 steps, you can visit the garden. 

We walked past the Boccherini music school where Puccini began his music studies. His father was a teacher there. School is named for the late 18^th century cellist and composer Luigi Boccherini who was born in Lucca. 

 

Shortly before noon, just when I thought our sightseeing was over, Consuelo brought us to Lucca’s Duomo, the Cathedral of San Martino. Its façade, with columns of different designs, was reminiscent of the Church of San Michele, which we’d seen earlier in the day. Distracted by hunger pangs, I neglected to take photos of the columns. 

 

However, one interesting feature that I documented was the Maze of Lucca, which was carved into the façade in the 11^th or 12^th century. The Latin inscription next to it refers to a Greek myth about a labyrinth built by Daedalus. To pilgrims visiting the church in the Middle Ages, the message would have been clear: Life is very dangerous; it’s easy to get lost in the maze so follow the teachings of the Church and you’ll stay on the right path. 

Also from the façade of Lucca’s Duomo is a depiction of a panther, one of the symbols of the city.

A few minutes later, we ended our guided tour at Piazza Napoleon, the biggest square in Lucca, which was bustling with activity. The plaza is surrounded by a 19^th century theater, various shops, and numerous restaurants and cafés with outdoor tables. Fortunately, a small group of us located a free table in shady spot. I was hoping to find some local specialties on the menu. At one point, Consuelo had mentioned that we should look for tortelli (smaller ravioli filled with meat and served with ragù) and a popular summer salad of spelt with chopped tomatoes, white onions, olive oil, and basil. However, almost all the offerings on the menu were generic Italian dishes.  

 

After lunch, I set out in search of local gelato. Despite Consuelo’s warning that Lucca’s version of gelato wasn’t as creamy or sweet as the gelato in other cities, I found my cone of dark chocolate and amareno (small dark cherries in syrup) absolutely delicious. It was the perfect way to cool off on a hot and sunny afternoon. 

During the rest of my free time in Lucca, I visited an exhibition of paintings by Giovanni Boldini, an Italian painter who lived from 1842 to 1931. He spent most of his career in Paris, doing portraits and genre paintings (paintings of daily life). Most of his portraits feature members of Parisian high society. There was something about his style that reminded me of John Singer Sargent, the American portrait painter who was also based in Paris.

Back in Montecatini, I contemplated my upcoming return to the U.S. In two days, I was supposed to fly from Florence to Paris CDG and then on to Washington’s Dulles Airport. But in the morning, just before we left for Lucca, I’d received an email from Air France informing me that they’d canceled my reservation – at my request! However, when I checked the app, I could still see part of my reservation. There was surely some mix-up to straighten out. I tried for over an hour to reach Air France by phone. When that wasn’t successful, I wasn’t sure what to do next. 

 

In any case, I had dinner plans for my final night in Montecatini. Lauren, Carol, Steve, and I had a reservation at the Antica Osteria Toscana, a restaurant Lodo had recommended for its excellent Tuscan cuisine. We started by sharing a generous appetizer platter. (and thanks to one of my dinner partners for a few of the following photos)

Since Tuscany is known for its beef, two of my friends decided to order a large steak to share. Our server brought the piece of meat to the table for their approval before it was cooked. I knew I wouldn’t appreciate a steak so I chose homemade pappardelle with meat sauce of wild boar and juniper berries. The pasta dish was delicious. And I also sampled the gnudi (ricotta and spinach dumplings with butter and sage) that Carol ordered. 

All in all, it was a great day, except for the fact that Air France cancelled part of my reservation! As much as I love Italy, after five and half weeks, I was ready to get back home.  

Pisa: Not Just the Leaning Tower

After déjà vu visits to Florence and Siena, I was excited about my first ever visit to Pisa. I always associated the city with its Leaning Tower. I remember learning that Galileo Galilei (1564-16442) dropped some balls from the top of the tower as part of a scientific experiment, but that’s about all I knew about Pisa until recently. However, I did a little research before this trip and learned that in earlier times, Pisa was located on the Mediterranean coast and was one of Italy’s four great Medieval maritime republics, along with Genoa, Amalfi, and Venice. Between the 11^th and 13^thcenturies, it dominated Mediterranean trade. It grew wealthy from its commercial activities and its participation in the Crusades. Its decline started in the late 1200s when it suffered defeats at the hands of rival cities such as Genoa, Florence, and Lucca. Pisa finally lost its independence when it was conquered by Florence in 1406. 

 

Due to a gradual build-up of silt, Pisa stopped being a coastal city around 1500. Today, it is located on the Arno River a little less than 10 miles from the Mediterranean coast. If you look at the map below, you’ll see that it’s not far from Florence and our base in Montecatini.  

 

On the 45-minute bus ride to Pisa, Lodo told us about Pisa’s more recent history. Much of the city was destroyed by Allied bombing during World War 2. The reason it was targeted during the period of Nazi occupation is because it was located on a major rail line. Fortunately, the historic part of the city, encircled by medieval stone walls, remained intact. 

 

Within the walls is the heart of Pisa’s historic district, the beautiful Piazza dei Miracoli (Plaza of Miracles). Most of Pisa’s historic buildings, including the Leaning Tower, are located in this main square. When I first caught a glimpse of the tower, it didn’t seem real. I could hardly believe that I could walk right up to it. 

Our local guide, Massimo, told us that construction of the tower began in 1173 and continued for two centuries. By the time the 4^th level of the tower was being built, the structure began to sink. Construction temporarily stopped at several times due to wars and financial difficulties as well as the need to allow the soft soil to settle. Levels five, six, and seven were added at a later time. It was important for the top section to be level because it contained the bells. The tower was completed in 1372. Currently, it tilts about 5 degrees. Walking around the piazza, I could see that the tilt looked different from different angles. 

According to Massimo, the tower tilts because of its shallow foundation and the soil composition. One side of the tower rests on sandy marine clay, that compresses unevenly while the other side sits on standard sand and gravel, which is firmer. Over the centuries, there have been several attempts to straighten the tilt of the tower. Most recently, in 1990, engineers tried pulling it straighter with cables but this was unsuccessful. But don’t worry about the tower falling down any time soon. Engineers say it will be safe for another 200 years. 

 

The Leaning Tower is actually the bell tower of the cathedral that stands a short distance away.  Construction of the cathedral began in 1063. The style, called Pisan Romanesque, blends elements of classical, Byzantine, and Islamic architecture. The building was enlarged in the 12^th century and the marble façade was added, with many of the stones recycled from earlier Roman buildings. 

After a fire damaged the building in 1597, the ruling Medici family paid to restore the cathedral in the Baroque style. The cathedral doors date back to this period. I noticed the beautiful mosaic above the main door.

The interior of the cathedral clearly shows Byzantine influence, especially in the mosaics and the use of gold. While some of the large paintings portray religious subjects, others tell the history of the Republic of Pisa. 

Massimo called our attention to the dome, which is oval, not round.

 

Galileo also performed an experiment in the cathedral. You can see a replica of the chandelier he used to develop his theory of a pendulum’s motion. 

 

A side chapel is devoted to Saint Ranieri, patron saint of Pisa. 

 

Next we visited the Baptistery, which is still used once a month for baptisms. The round building was heavily damaged during World War 2 and required extensive restoration. Its stained glass windows are new. 

It was fascinating to hear from Massimo about the possible Jewish influence on the Pisan baptismal tradition. For example, baptism used to be for teenagers rather than babies, perhaps a reference to the Jewish Bar Mitzvah ceremony. There was symbolism involved in tradition of the individual to be baptized entering the round building on the west side (from darkness) and exiting through the east side (into enlightenment) after being baptized in a pool of water. An additional Jewish influence was having an upper gallery where women were seated. I also learned from Massimo that although Pisa had a Jewish community, there was no separate Jewish district and the old Jewish cemetery was located within the main piazza. 

 

Outside the piazza are the usual restaurants and shops catering to tourists. 

Our group walked to Osteria i Santi (The Saints’ Tavern) where the food was excellent and the décor, with its irreverent depictions of saints, was quite unusual. That’s Saint Sebastian in the painting.

After lunch, we had time to continue exploring on our own. I walked back to the piazza but passed up a chance to climb the 297 steps up to the top of the tower. I’m glad a couple of members of my group who were feeling more energetic were willing to share a few of the photos they took.

I chose to visit the Camposanto Monumentale, or Monumental Cemetery, a large cloistered burial ground that extends along the northern edge of the Piazza dei Miracoli.

The cloister, built in 1277, contains a large collection of ancient Roman sarcophagi that were re-used during the Middle Ages. 

 

The oldest sarcophagus actually comes from ancient Greece.

 

The walls of the cloister are covered with medieval frescoes from the 14^th century. The lead framing of the building’s wooden roof melted during the World War 2 bombing and damaged the frescoes. Many are still being restored. One of the most well known is called The Triumph of Death, which was supposedly inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy. Here are a few of the scenes. 

Biblical figures and stories (Adam and Eve, Noah, Abraham, Joseph, the tower of Babel, etc.) are the subject of several other frescoes. 

I was particularly struck by this late 14^th century fresco. According to the accompanying description, it is a portrayal of cosmogony (the creation of the world), according to Christian theology. The model of the universe shows the Earth at the center, surrounded by 24 concentric rings. The innermost rings represent the elements (water, air, and fire), then the sun, the moon, and the planets that were known at the time. Rings that are further out feature the 12 signs of the zodiac. The outermost rings represent angels and saints. Christ appears at the very top. 

 

We had a very full day in Pisa but I managed to save some energy for a special evening activity in Montecatini. Several of us attended a concert of opera arias at the Tettuccio Spa. We enjoyed a thrilling performance by three talented singers in an unforgettable setting.

I'd like to thank the member of my group (who had a better seat) for the following picture of the performers.  

 

It was late when we returned to the hotel and I went to sleep right away. In less than 12 hours, we’d be visiting Lucca, another Tuscan city that I'd never seen before.