Another Day in Genoa

 

After I exploring Genoa a bit on my own, I was looking forward to learning more once the OAT Northern Italy tour got underway. For reference, here are a couple of maps. The first the territory covered by the OAT Northern Italy tour with the Italian Riviera Pre-Trip Extension. For context, the second map shows the regions of today’s Italy. We’d be visiting these regions: Liguria, Lombardy, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Veneto.

Our first activity was a morning walk with our tour leader Elena and local guide Cristina. According to Cristina, although Genoa is an affordable city to live in, its population is declining, a phenomenon that many European cities are experiencing as the birth rate remains low. At one time, Genoa was at the center of the industrial revolution and the economy was based on industry but the majority of the population now works in the service sector. Revitalization of the old port, which took place in 1992, has made tourism a more important source of revenue. Nowadays, many enormous cruise ships stop in Genoa. 

 

As we walked from the hotel towards the historic center, Cristina noted that Genoa’s port and the adjacent historic center suffered significant damage from Allied bombing raids during World War 2. One building that was spared was St. George’s Palace. I had noticed its colorful façade the previous day. The palazzo, dating back to the 19^th century, was built to house a Genoese bank named for St. George, one of the four protectors of the city. The building was restored in 1992, and the frescoes I had admired are replicas of the originals. In one of the frescoes, St. George is depicted slaying a dragon. 

 

We passed by the lovely Palazzo Croce de Marini whose first floor is now occupied by a shop selling antique books. The building dates back to the second half of the 16^th century.

One of our first stops in the historic center was at a small shop named Pestobene, where we sampled freshly made pesto sauce. This culinary specialty has long been associated with Genoa. It is traditionally made by hand using a mortar and pestle to crush the fresh basil, garlic, pine nuts and salt before adding grated cheese and olive oil. To make pesto sauce in large quantities, this shop uses a motorized mortar and pestle.

The nearby yellow and green building is a typical townhouse from 700 or 800 years ago. The medieval stone façade was covered up when it was restored in the 17^th or 18^th century.

 

We turned down one of the many dark narrow streets in the historic center on our way to the cathedral. People of different social classes would often occupy the same building, with the wealthier families residing on the more expensive upper floors which received more light. 

 

Cristina told us that the striped façade of the cathedral reflects a Moorish influence, which I suspected. The cathedral’s bell tower was a 16^th century addition. 

Since two cruise ships were in town, there was a mob of people entering the cathedral. I’m glad I had visited it yesterday. However, she called our attention to something I hadn’t previously noticed. In 1941, during the Second World War, the cathedral was struck by an English bomb which pierced the ceiling but failed to explode.

On this visit, I noticed the 14^th century Byzantine style frescoes.

 

I also spent some time in the Chapel of St. John the Baptist which contains relics of the saint. The chapel dates back to the mid-15^th century. It’s filled with sculpture including a beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary by Andrea Sansovino.

 

Finally, I’m grateful to Cristina for telling us about Cardinal Boetto, Archbishop of Genoa, whose statue stands in the cathedral. During the Nazi occupation of Italy, he gave clandestine assistance to Jews and anti-Fascists. He was posthumously honored by Yad Vashem as one of the Righteous among the Nations for saving over 800 Jews.

Of course, Cristina led us down the Strade Nuove to see the 42 famous palaces (Palazzi dei Rolli) from the late 16^thcentury. Often referred to as an open-air museum, it’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The grandest palazzo on the street, built by the Grimaldi family, now houses Genoa’s city council. 

Heading back towards the port, we walked through a maze of caruggi, the narrow streets of the historic center. I’m glad we stopped along the way to taste two types of focaccia, a specialty of Genoa, because I was getting quite hungry. Redolent with high quality extra virgin olive oil, it seemed to melt in my mouth. 

In fact, since our walking tour was coming to an end, I joined a fellow traveler for a lunch break before continuing our explorations. Marilynn and I chanced upon a quiet and charming restaurant (no tourists in sight!), the Locanda Spinola, where I tried freshly made chestnut pasta served with a sauce of fresh tuna, olives, and tomatoes. 

 

The restaurant was just around the corner from the Palazzo Spinola, one of the 16^th century palazzos that was the residence of a series of noble families. Now owned by the state, it is open to the public as a museum. The palazzo contains frescoed rooms, elaborate furnishings that changed over the centuries, and an impressive art collection.  

 

One of the most famous works is this equestrian portrait of an important Genoese nobleman which was painted by Peter Paul Rubens around the year 1606.  

 

The vaulted ceiling of this salon is covered with frescoes that were done in 1625.

 

There was a private altar on each floor of the palazzo. A priest would come everyday to celebrate mass.

This is how the kitchen looked in the 19^th century. 

After a brief rest at the hotel, Elena led our group through the historic district to the Liberty style elevator that brought us up to an area of Genoa called Spianata Castelletto. (Liberty style is Italy’s version of Art Nouveau.) Once we stepped out of the elevator, we found ourselves in a cool, quiet residential neighborhood far above the hubbub of the city below. From the expansive open terrace shaded by umbrella pine trees (the source of pine nuts), we enjoyed sweeping panoramic views of Genoa and the surrounding area in the early evening light. 

 

Soon afterwards, our group gathered for a multi-course welcome dinner at a traditional Genoese restaurant in the old port area. I dined on cheese- and herb-filled ravioli with walnut sauce, a frittura of squid and vegetables, and a semifreddo al caffè (a chilled dessert that's softer than ice cream). Everything was excellent.

My stay in Genoa was almost over. I came to the city without any particular expectations and I’d been pleased by what I found. I was already excited about our next destination. In the morning, we’d be departing for the Italian Riviera. 

  

A Journey through Italy - Starting with Genoa

Genoa - just north of the port

The story of my recent journey through Italy began a couple of years ago when I was searching for a trip to take in the spring of 2026. Specifically, I was trying to decide between two trips. The first was the OAT trip to northern Italy, a region I had not previously visited. Several travelers I had met in recent years had enthusiastically recommended the trip. The scenery certainly looked beautiful. At the same time, I was considering a Grand Circle trip went to both the Amalfi coast and Tuscany. In addition to seeing a different scenic area of Italy, I’d have the opportunity to see both Pompeii and Herculaneum. I was having trouble making up my mind between the two very attractive options. So, once I was on the phone with OAT/GCT, I decided to take the two trips back to back. The first trip would be northern Italy, starting in mid-April, followed by two days on my own in Sorrento before the start of GCT’s Impressions of Italy. This meant I’d be gone a total of 5 ½ weeks. 

 

My adventure began in the city of Genoa on a sunny Sunday afternoon in April. I arrived early so I’d have a day or two on my own prior to the official start of my OAT tour. As usual, a few weeks before leaving home, I’d done some research (studying maps, reading about history and sights) on the places I’d be visiting. Here is a little background information about Genoa, capital of Italy’s Liguria region.

 

Genoa is located on the Mediterranean coast in northwestern Italy. Its earliest known inhabitants were the Ligures, who settled there in the 5^th millennium BCE. They were followed by Celts, Phoenicians, and Romans. After the fall of Rome, the city, along with the surrounding area, was occupied by the Goths, the Byzantines (the Eastern Roman Empire), the Lombards, and the Franks. In 1099, it became a republic and it remained an independent city state from the 11^th to 18^th century. 

 

Located on a natural harbor, Genoa has a long history as a maritime power. In fact, throughout the centuries, it was one of Italy’s four maritime republics, the others being Venice, Pisa, and Amalfi. Genoa’s chief rival was Venice. The two city-states vied for supremacy of the Mediterranean and control of maritime trading routes leading to the East. 

 

In addition, Genoa was a great financial power. A state bank, the Bank of St. George (historic protector of the city) was established in 1407 and financed many European monarchs. The 16^th century is considered to be Genoa’s golden age. During this time, it was ruled by the Grand Admiral Andrea Doria, a virtual dictator who drove out the French and led naval campaigns against the Ottoman Empire. Also, starting at this time, Genoa became closely allied with Spain. Genoese bankers financed much of Spain’s explorations and global wars, bringing great wealth to the city.

 

Genoa’s independence officially came to an end when Napoleon conquered the city in 1797. After Napoleon’s defeat, the Congress of Vienna awarded Genoa to the Kingdom of Sardinia. It later joined the new Kingdom of Italy that was formed in 1861. In the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries, important industries, such as shipbuilding and steel, developed in Genoa. It has remained Italy’s busiest port and a major commercial center. With a population of a little over 800,000 in the metropolitan area, it is the country’s 6^th largest city. 

 

My hotel was located in the harbor area overlooking the Porto Antico (old port).  

The Porto Antico, which goes back to the 13^th century, was redesigned by famed Genoa-born architect Renzo Piano in 1992. (This was planned to coincide with the 500^th anniversary of Genoa-born Christopher Columbus’s first voyage to the Americas.) The old port now a lively park-like area boasting a world-class aquarium and numerous restaurants, cafés, bars, and shops. At first glance, it seemed to be a popular spot, filled with people of all ages, strolling, riding bicycles, and listening to live music. 

 

Before I explored the old port, however, I set out to wander through the nearby historic center of the city. Turning into the maze of narrow streets and alleyways that rose steeply from the port, I discovered churches, piazzas filled with cafés, and special bakeries devoted to focaccia, a Genoese specialty. 

 

One of the first things I did was stop for gelato – pistachio, in this case. 

 

It wasn’t long before I found myself in front of the 12^th century Cathedral of San Lorenzo with its distinctive façade. The stripes come from a combination of white marble and gabbro, a dark stone found in Liguria. A massive pair of stone lions guards the entrance. The architecture is a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic.

I took a quick look at the interior which continued the striped theme. It reminded me of some of the Moorish architecture I had seen in southern Spain.   

 

Just behind the cathedral, facing the Piazza Matteotti, is the Chiesa del Gesù e dei Santi Ambrogio e Andrea, known as the Gesù Church. This 16^th century Baroque gem contains two paintings by Flemish master Peter Paul Rubens. 

There were plenty of historic buildings, including the Palazzo Ducale, the residence of the Genoese Doge since 1339 and now a museum. 

Eventually, I reached Genoa’s main square, the Piazza de Ferrari, with its 1930s bronze fountain in the center. 

 

The Carlo Felice Opera House faces the square. An equestrian statue of Garibaldi stands in front of the theater.  

 

Before the sun set, I headed back to the port area where Eataly, the combination grocery store and restaurant, caught my attention. I’d visited their New York City location a few years ago. That solved the problem of where to eat dinner. From the Italian-only menu, I ordered a quinoa salad and something called supplì, mainly so I could find out what it was. It turned out to be a tasty croquette made of risotto with a gooey cheese center. 

 

After satisfying my hunger, I checked the array of tantalizing grocery items and selected three bars of Italian-made dark chocolate to ensure that I had enough for my daily dose. And then, after a very full day, I allowed myself to go back to the hotel and plan some activities for the next day, when I’d be on my own again. 

 

The following morning, the first item on my agenda was a visit to the Mercato Orientale, the large indoor marketplace for produce, meats, cheeses, breads, prepared food, gifts, and much more. It was raining gently as I walked first to the Piazza de Ferrari and then along Genoa’s main shopping street, via XX Settembre. 

 

While the scene outside was dreary and gray, the marketplace was a riot of color and tempting aromas.  

 

I couldn’t resist buying a wedge of focaccia with herbs as a snack. It left my fingers slick with olive oil but it was so delicious.

Next, I navigated my way to via Garibaldi, a long pedestrian-only street lined with 42 palazzos built as residences for Genoa’s wealthiest families in the 16th to 18^th centuries. The street is on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Nowadays, most are occupied by banks and municipal offices. However, it’s still possible to admire the façades and to catch a glimpse of the courtyards. 

 

Past the palazzos were all sorts of shops and cafés. 

When I spied a gelateria, I tried another of my favorite flavors, nocciola (hazelnut).

Although I’d just eaten gelato, I stopped soon afterwards for an actual restaurant lunch. Gaia Vino was tucked into a tiny side street. To balance out the gelato, I started with a big mixed salad and followed with pasta – saffron taglierini (a thin ribbon-like egg pasta, popular in northern Italy) with shrimp and a bit of pesto.

Fully satiated, I resumed my walk through the historic center of Genoa.

 

But before long, I headed in the direction of the hotel for some much-needed rest. By late afternoon, I’d recovered my energy.  In the evening, I joined two fellow travelers for dinner at the same restaurant where I’d eaten lunch. This time, I indulged my passion for pasta by ordering ravioli with tocco, a Genoese meat sauce. 

 

Illuminated at night, the streets of the historic district looked magical. I was looking forward to continuing my discoveries in Genoa the next day with my OAT trip leader.