August 26, 2014 – Virginia Road Trip – Part Two
Note: This is the
second post about our recent Virginia road trip. Before you read this one, please make sure
you read the post from a couple of days ago, Virginia Road Trip – Part
One.
The second day of our trip was devoted to another Staunton
attraction, the
Frontier Culture Museum, a living history museum.
The museum consists of several farming
settlements that allow visitors to understand life in the Valley of Virginia
(the original English name for the Shenandoah Valley) for the Native American
population and for the primary European and African groups that came to this
area in the 17
th through 19
th centuries.
As a history major and history teacher, I was looking
forward to this visit with great anticipation, but I wasn’t sure how Elliott
and Marshall would react. I shouldn’t
have worried. We all found it fascinating and could easily have spent a full
day on the premises, especially since we were able to use a golf cart to travel
from one exhibit to the next. At each
site, costumed interpreters answered all of our questions and provided a wealth
of information.
First of all, several rebuilt or reconstructed farming
settlements showed us how people from West Africa, Germany, England and Ireland
lived in their home countries before arriving in America. At the West African farming compound from the
1700s we learned that the Igbo of Nigeria measured wealth in yams. These yams, however, did not resemble our
Thanksgiving sweet potatoes. They were
massive specimens whose very starchy white flesh formed the basis of the Igbo diet.
|
Elliott and Marshall in the Igbo compound |
|
Yams growing just outside the walls of the compound |
Next, we visited a series of European farms that represented
the Old World lives of immigrants who came to the Valley in the 17th
and 18th centuries. We
started with an English yeoman’s farmhouse dating back to 1641. The structure was brought over from
Worcestershire. A pair of goats was
merrily nibbling on the rosy pink façade.
We admired the simple furniture and everyday objects in the two-story
house. Also, we learned that a yeoman
was one step below the gentry and would be comparable to today’s
upper-middle-class.
|
17th century English farmhouse |
|
Goats nibbling on the farmhouse |
|
Freshly made cheese in the English farmhouse |
Inside the 1700s Irish farmhouse from the Ulster area (where
many Protestant Scotch-Irish lived), we observed the farmer at his loom, weaving
linen cloth. When we remarked on the
very high ceiling, he informed us that all Irish farmhouses were built this way
because the peat the Irish burned for fuel created so much smoke. At the nearby forge, we took a quick look at
the blacksmith working over the blazing fire.
It was too hot to linger.
|
Interior of 18th century Irish farmhouse |
|
Weaving linen in the Irish farmhouse |
|
Working at the forge |
The German farmhouse, also from the 1700s, was immediately
recognizable. It looked as if it had
been plucked straight from the Rhine River area of Germany or France. The German farm wife, who was working at her
spinning wheel, pointed out the raised hearth at the fireplace. It seems like a very smart idea (much easier
on your back when you’re cooking) but apparently the Germans were the only
group of immigrants who built their hearths in this fashion.
|
18th century German farmhouse |
|
At work spinning |
|
The raised hearth |
Then it was on to America.
The Native American settlement was still under construction, but some
very healthy-looking pumpkins were on the vines.
|
Not-yet-completed Native American settlement from the 1700s |
|
Pumpkins on the vine |
There were three frontier farmhouses, but we only had time
to visit one since Elliott was getting tired and we were all getting
hungry. We’ll have to return to see the
small log cabin from 1740, and the farmhouse from 1840. However, we went inside an 1820 farmhouse
where a young woman was tending a fire (without a raised hearth). The apple pie she’d just prepared smelled
delicious, and the aroma reminded all of us that it was well past our usual
lunchtime.
|
Frontier farmhouse from the mid-1800s |
If you go to the museum, be advised that there is no
restaurant or cafeteria on the premises.
However, you can bring your own lunch, as picnic tables are set up in
shady areas throughout the property.
Since hunger pangs were kicking in, we went back to Staunton’s historic
district for a bite to eat at The Pampered Palette. Cocoa Mill Chocolatier just happened to be in
the same block, so we went inside to select a few tasty treats.
While Elliott went to lie down for his afternoon nap, I
walked over to Trinity Episcopal Church, one of Staunton’s main tourist
attractions.
I had been seeing posters
for
Staunton’s annual summer music festival, and it turned out that a small
group of singers and instrumentalists was rehearsing in the church at the
time.
The ethereal sounds of a Mozart
motet created the perfect atmosphere for admiring the twelve Tiffany stained
glass windows.
|
A detail from one of the Tiffany windows |
We wrapped up the second day with a marvelous dinner at
Zynodoa, a farm-to-table restaurant near our hotel.
My friend Georgi, who retired from Annandale
High School a year ago, joined us for dinner since she recently moved to a
horse farm not far from Staunton.
A few
of the dishes we shared were fried Rappahannock River oysters, lemon risotto
with Chesapeake jumbo lump crab, picked vegetables, Bibb lettuce salad with
peaches and candied pecans, rainbow trout, brined and roasted chicken, grits
(my new favorite food) and cornbread scones.
By the way, the name of the restaurant is the Native American word from
which the English “Shenandoah” is derived.
Even the drive home on the third day of our trip was an
adventure. Once again, I avoided
highways and circuitously navigated us back through Shenandoah National Park
and a string of little towns. Our route
brought us to Culpeper, where we stopped for lunch – another great meal, at
It’s About Thyme. I’m sure we’ll return
to Culpeper, as we noticed a number of interesting looking shops and eateries. In fact, we stopped at a cheese shop and picked
up half a wheel of Humboldt Fog goat cheese before we resumed our drive back
home.
Elliott really enjoyed the trip, but he’s having nearly as
much fun back here at home in Fairfax. See
what he’s accomplished in the last few days: