Edfu Temple and Life along the Nile

Yes, there was another temple on today’s agenda but first, I enjoyed a leisurely morning cruise downstream to Edfu, observing life on the Nile. Once again, the weather was perfect – the sun was shining and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. When I stepped out onto my balcony around 6:30am, there was a definite chill in the air but the temperature started rising quickly. 

 

I looked out at small villages on the shore, a few brightly painted rowboats, some mud brick walls. Cows and water buffalo were grazing – goats, too – and birds were flying overhead. Men in long galabeyas in muted shades went about their morning tasks while I sipped a cup of hibiscus tea. 

 

Around 10am, we docked in Edfu. The population of Edfu is 300,000 but most of the people live in small villages in the surrounding countryside.

We were going to the temple, of course. Hussein warned us that the vendors we’d encounter outside the site have a reputation for being very aggressive. When we arrived at the entrance to the site around 11am, I tried to avoid making eye contact with them.

Edfu is the best-preserved temple in Egypt. Construction began around 237 BCE and it was finished 180 years later, during the reign of Ptolemy XII. In 1860, excavators began to unearth it  from beneath 12 meters of sand and silt that had covered the temple for centuries. 

 

It's impossible not to be impressed by the temple’s enormous pylon. This is an architectural term that means a monumental gateway surrounded by two sloping towers flanking a central doorway. The shape resembles the hieroglyph for “horizon.” The sun disk is often shown over the entrance. In ancient Egypt, the purpose of the pylon was to separate the outside world from the inner, sacred world. Typically, a pylon would be covered with relief carvings of the pharaoh’s victories. In the case of the temple at Edfu, it depicts the pharaoh Ptolemy XII battling his enemies as the god Horus and the goddess Hathor look on.  

 

The temple is dedicated to the falcon-headed god Horus. A live falcon was kept in a cage in front of the entrance. Hussein reminded us that the Egyptians did not worship animals but kept them as symbols of gods. When the animal died, it was mummified, as we had seen yesterday at the Crocodile Museum in Kom Ombu. 

In addition to a birth house and two hypostyle halls, the temple features an enormous paved courtyard surrounded by columns on three sides.

 

The figure in the center of this carving is the pharaoh, who receives the crown of Lower Egypt from the figure on the left and the crown of Upper Egypt from the figure on the right. 

As we looked at the carved decorations, Hussein gave us some insight into the art techniques used by the ancient Egyptians. The artist was primarily a craftsman. It was the priest who made the decisions about what was portrayed. The artist could not add any personal touch. First, the image was sketched on the plaster-covered stone. Then it was carved into the plaster. Lastly, the carved images were colored. Because much of the temple was buried for so long, traces of the color are still visible in places.  

 

When we looked at the carving of a boat, I remembered how you can tell which direction a boat is traveling. If the sail is up, it’s traveling upstream, i.e. to the south. When sailing north, or downstream, the sail isn’t necessary because the current will carry the boat. In this scene, a boat was bringing the goddess Hathor to Horus.

The carving on this column shows the king raising two obelisks.

 

This was the first time I’d seen a depiction of the hippopotamus goddess of motherhood who lives in the Nile. She’s known for being very protective of her babies.

Many of the carvings show kings bringing offerings to the gods.

 

At the end of the second century CE, Coptic Christians seeking refuge from Roman persecution moved into the temple. This accounts for much of the damage we see today (defaced images) and explains why the roof of the temple is covered with soot.

The holy of holies contained a golden statue of a falcon set on a black granite shrine.

 

We stopped at one of the wall carvings so Hussein could show us the way numbers were written in ancient Egypt. The figure of a happy man with his arms in the air represents one million.

Later in the day, when we were back on board the Nefertiti, Hussein showed us how the ancient Egyptians wrote all of the numbers.

 

And here’s a bit of trivia: the so-called Arabic numerals (1, 2, 3, etc.) that we use in the U.S. and much of the western world are not used in the Arab world today. In fact, these numerals actually originated in ancient India. Instead, Egypt and many other Muslim countries use Mashriqi, or Eastern Arabic numerals  (٠, ١, ٢, ٣, ٤, ٥, ٦, ٧, ٨, ٩).

 

After lunch on board the riverboat, I enjoyed Hussein’s informative talk about life on the Nile. He noted that the construction of the Aswan High Dam in 1970 brought big changes to people’s lives. For example, instead of building mud brick houses with wood beams on high elevated spots, they could now build houses of red brick or concrete. Of course, the mud brick houses naturally kept the homes cool in summer while the houses of newer materials required air conditioning.  

 

In many other ways, however, the simple lifestyle of people living along the Nile remained the same. Both before and after 1970, people tended to live with extended family. Speaking as a native Egyptian who grew up in a small village in the south, Hussein told us that the people are extremely conservative and that privacy isn’t part of the culture. Traditionally, the main activity was farming and the owner of the land would be the grandfather of the family. All of the other family members worked for him. Often, the family would also own a female water buffalo who provided cheese and milk not only for its own use but to sell in the market as well. When a calf was born, it would be raised until it was old enough to sell.  

 

With large extended families living together, there would always several people to help raise the children. There was a definite preference for sons rather than daughters because boys would become workers on the farm. In fact, men used to have more than one wife in order to get more sons. With girls, there was always the risk that they would bring shame to the family. Girls had to remain virgins until they married and sex education was non-existent. Mothers would frighten their daughters by telling them how painful first-time sex was. Proof of the bride’s virginity, i.e. a blood-stained sheet, was expected. One important change was the 2008 legal ban on female genital mutilation, which previously was quite common. And despite the law, it is still practiced today. 

 

When it came to choosing a marriage partner, the grandfather would make the decision as to who would marry and when the wedding would take place. Marriage between first cousins was common. The woman would get a dowry of gold from the husband’s family. The wedding would be a two-day affair which everyone in the village would attend (no formal invitations necessary!). A meal featuring beef was part of the feast that would be served. Since it wasn’t unusual for there to be 2000 to 4000 guests, weddings were quite expensive for the family. 

 

Hussein told us that nowadays, it is the parents who choose marriage partners for their children. Prior to the wedding, the families sign a contract which guarantees the rights of the woman in the case of a divorce. She is entitled to keep any furniture, jewelry, valuables, etc. 

 

There was always competition with other extended families. And feuds between families sometimes resulted in violence that would set off a vicious cycle of retribution. Prior to 1970, the mayor of the village would come from the biggest extended family. I’m not sure if that has since changed.

 

When the grandfather died, his oldest son would take over his role. In Islam, there is no cremation and the deceased person would be buried as soon as possible, ideally within 24 hours. It was customary for other extended families in the village to bring the bereaved family three meals a day for three days. During this time, others would come to pay condolences. Unfortunately, with the lack of hospitals, cars, and paved roads in rural Egypt, there is still a high mortality rate for pregnant women and babies. 

 

In the case of a death, all of the women in the extended family would wear only black for several months. Hussein said that’s the reason you see so many women dressed in black. 

 

I found it interesting that Hussein reported growing up in a village where Christian and Muslim families lived peacefully side by side. There was a church and a mosque and he had many Christian childhood friends. 

 

Summing up, Hussein stressed that the opening of the Aswan High Dam in 1970 brought major changes to the people who lived in isolated villages along the Nile. With electricity in their homes for the first time, people began to listen to the news on the radio. Television helped educate girls and women about their rights. Men could now use machines in the fields so boys had time to attend school. Literacy, especially among women, increased. There was less of a preference for male children. Family members achieved more financial independence, giving them greater options.

 

At the same time, extended family bonds have weakened and poverty remains a major societal problem. While religious leaders oppose birth control, families struggle to afford to raise their children. Hussein also briefly referred to changes resulting from the growth of the Muslim Brotherhood in the 1970s and the Arab Spring of 2011. Egyptian society may be conservative but change is inevitable. I wonder what the future will hold for the children being born in these villages today. 

 

Shortly after sunset, the Nefertiti went through the locks at Esna, indicating that we had passed from Upper Egypt into Lower Egypt.

The Nefertiti would continue sailing downstream another 60 kilometers or so towards Luxor, where we would be docked for 3 days. Undoubtedly we’d be seeing more temples, but we’d be doing much, much more, starting tomorrow with our visit to the Valley of the Kings.  

Philae and Kom Ombu Temples

It’s a running joke among travelers on certain OAT trips that OAT stands for “Oh, another temple.” While our riverboat remained docked in Aswan, we didn't want to miss the well-preserved temples of Philae. Their original location was Philae Island, which was south of Aswan, near the traditional border between Egypt and Nubia. When the Aswan Low Dam was built in 1902, the temples were under water every year during the high-water season. Realizing that the temple complex would be completely submerged year-round with construction of the Aswan High Dam, UNESCO coordinated the efforts of several countries who worked together to relocate the temples to higher ground. To do this, the temples were disassembled block by block. Each of the 40,000 to 50,000 blocks was labeled as it was removed so that the structures could be reassembled in their new location.  

The temples of Philae now stand on Agilkia Island, downstream from the High Dam and Lake Nasser. Since the new location is only about 8 kilometers south of Aswan, we took a short drive and then a 10-minute motorboat ride to reach the island. This is how it looked as we approached from the water shortly before 9am. 

 

Most of the temple complex was built during the Greco-Roman period. The primary temple is dedicated to Isis, the goddess of motherhood, magic, and healing. It was built over a period of several years beginning during the reign of Ptolemy II (285-246 BCE). The temple’s Hellenistic architecture is a blend of classical Egyptian and Greco-Roman elements. It remained active even after Egypt was officially Christian. The Byzantine Emperor Justinian I ended pagan worship at the site in the mid-6^th century CE. 

 

In antiquity, Philae island was sacred to both the Egyptians and the Nubians, who had adopted the worship of Osiris and his wife Isis from the ancient Egyptians. According to myth, the heart of Osiris was buried on the tiny islet of Bigeh, a literal stone’s throw from Philae. Shrines on Philae to Osiris and Isis drew pilgrims to the island. 

 

Philae Island came under attack by the Nubians in the 4^th century BCE, when Egypt was experiencing political instability. The Ptolemaic era began at the end of the century. In the late 3^rd century BCE, to strengthen the defenses of Philae and to discourage Nubian incursions, Ptolemy IV enlarged the military garrison and established a town on the island. 

 

Even though it wasn’t yet 9am, there were already plenty of tourists at the temple complex. The carvings at the entrance were remarkably well-preserved.

The temple features two long colonnades. 

This is just a section of carving that I thought was quite lovely. It was in a part of the main temple called the Birth House. In fact, notice the two figures seated on birthing chairs. 

 

Hussein pointed out an unusual feature in the Birth House. The capitals of the columns here feature the head of the goddess Hathor, protector of women in childbirth. As you look from one column to the next (right to left in the photo), the face of Hathor seems to change gradually from a neutral expression to an actual smile. Is this perhaps to show her happiness at giving birth?

He also called our attention to the last known ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic text. It was written by the temple’s high priest in the year 394 CE.

 

The last known dated example of demotic script (the writing used by ordinary Egyptians) was also found here. It dates back to 452 CE. You can also see slash marks made by Roman soldiers when they used this wall to sharpen their swords. 

In 430 CE, the Romans sent an army to end pagan worship at the Isis temple. In order to transform the temple into a church, Coptic Christians scratched out the faces and feet of figures in the carvings and added crosses to the columns. 

 

Because the ancient Egyptians were already familiar with the trinity of father (Osiris), mother (Isis), and son (Horus), they may have been receptive to Christianity with its own trinity. Furthermore, images of Isis nursing her son Horus (such as the one in the photo below) call to mind the Christian images of the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus. 

The oldest structure from Philae is the Kiosk of Nectanebo I, who reigned from 380-362 BCE. Only six of its original 14 columns remain standing. Above their floral capitals, the face of Hathor appears on square blocks.  

 

Two separate structures stand nearby on the banks of the Nile. The temple of Hathor is on the left and the Kiosk of Trajan is on the right.

The temple of Hathor, the cow goddess, is just east of the temple of Isis. Hathor is also the goddess of music, and carvings from the inside walls show players of the flute, the lyre, the drum and the harp. Note the dwarf god Bes with the harp and drum.

 

On the screens between the columns, the emperor Augustus is shown making offerings to the goddess Hathor.

 

The Kiosk of Trajan, the Roman emperor who reigned 98 to 117CE, is a rectangular structure whose 14 columns feature floral capitals. Trajan’s cartouche appears on the interior walls, but the structure may actually date back to the era of the emperor Augustus, about 100 years earlier. 

Another structure on the site is the so-called Gate of Hadrian, located just west of the temple of Isis. Relief sculptures show the Roman emperors Hadrian (117-138 CE) and Marcus Aurelius (161-180CE). 

 

In addition, we noticed quite a bit of graffiti in Latin, doubtless left behind by Roman soldiers.  

 

I was tempted by some of the colorful Nubian-made items for sale at the motorboat dock but there was no time for shopping.

 

Back in Aswan, Hussein brought us to the recently restored spice market. We munched on a popular Egyptian snack, roasted peanuts with honey and sesame seeds, while learning about several different herbal tea mixtures and spices. I ended up buying a bag of fragrant apple tea. 

 

Before leaving the market, I glanced at the beautiful textiles. Alas, I’m not in the market for more home furnishings. 

As soon as we boarded the Nefertiti, we started cruising north to Kom Ombu. I spent a peaceful hour or so on my balcony watching the Nile scenery pass by. 

 

In the mid-afternoon, while we were cruising, the head chef offered a cooking lesson.

 

First, with the help of some of the travelers, he created a delicious eggplant dish which reminded me of baba ganouj. The recipe included ground coriander and cumin, extra virgin olive oil, white vinegar, garlic, parsley, and cilantro. It should be refrigerated 2-3 hours before serving. I will definitely try to make this at home.  

 

Next, he prepared koshary, sometimes called Egyptian’s national dish. The base is a carb-heavy mixture of rice, lentils, and small pasta. The koshary has a topping of crispy fried onions and a scattering of chickpeas. A highly seasoned tomato sauce is served alongside to spoon over the dish. In the photo below, the koshary is on the left with tomato sauce in a separate dish; the eggplant dish is on the right.

 

The dessert the chef prepared was Om Ali, Egypt’s elaborate calorie-laden national dessert. To call it a bread pudding wouldn’t be doing it justice. Hot liquid (a mixture of whole milk, cream, sugar, vanilla, and optional spices such as cinnamon and cardamom) is poured over a base of baked dough, which can be puff pastry, phyllo, or even torn up croissants. Then it’s topped with a generous layer of pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts, raisins, and coconut. Next, a layer of heavy cream is poured over the top and the whole dish is baked until the surface turns golden brown and bubbly. And yes, it’s as delicious as it sounds. 

(before adding cream on top)

after baking and ready to serve

 

Shortly after the cooking lesson, the Nefertiti docked at Kom Ombu, about 45 kilometers north of Aswan. The city dates back to prehistoric times. It was one of ancient Egypt’s richest cities since its strategic location allowed it to control the trade between Egypt and Nubia. Hussein told us that during the time of the Ptolemies and Romans, it was a center for the training of elephants for the army. The Egyptians imported elephants from India because they were easier to control than the African elephants. 

 

It was late in the afternoon when we set out to visit the Kom Ombu temple, and the sun was already low in the sky. The temple dates back mostly to Ptolemaic period (180-47 BCE) and the Hellenistic influence is noticeable in the figures, whose bodies are more defined and exposed. The Kom Ombu temple is actually a double temple dedicated to two gods, which makes it unique among Egyptian temples which generally are dedicated to a single god. It’s symmetrical in design, with two identical entrances and hypostyle halls. The north side is dedicated to Horus, the Elder, the falcon-headed god of the sky and healing, while the south side is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile-headed god of fertility and the Nile. Just like in earlier times, thousands of crocodiles live just offshore in the shallow waters of the Nile. In ancient Egypt, they represented the seemingly opposing forces of divine protection and terrible destruction, just like the river.

Hussein pointed out the Nilometer, a deep circular stone well that allowed the Egyptians to measure the Nile’s water levels. This allowed them to predict the level of annual flooding and, in turn, to set the tax rate. He then called our attention to the method used by the ancient Egyptians to join blocks of stone together with dovetail shaped pieces of wood. 

 

Well preserved wall carvings featured scenes attesting to the ancient Egyptian’s knowledge of medicine. Among the instruments shown were forceps, a bone saw, and scalpels. Hussein told us that ancient Egyptians performed surgery, they used opium as an anesthetic.

 

This photo shows the goddess Isis on a birthing chair, delivering her son Horus.

 

Other reliefs show pharaohs making offerings to the gods.

I was baffled by the scene below until my friend John, who has studied ancient Egypt extensively, explained that it depicts Thoth (ibis-headed) and Horus (falcon-headed) pouring purifying water, shown as ankh and was symbols, on Ptolemy XII as part of his coronation.

 

In the next carving, we see the two gods to whom the double temple is dedicated. The god on the right is Sobek, the crocodile-headed god of the Nile. On the left is a falcon-headed Horus the Elder with a solar disk and a cobra on his head.

 

I was intrigued by this beautiful relief carving with multiple figures. And thank you once again to John for helping me decipher it. From left to right we see Thoth, the ibis-headed god of wisdom, magic, writing, and the moon; Hathor; the pharaoh; Sekhmet, the lion-headed goddess of war, destruction, and healing; the falcon-headed god Horus with the double crown of Egypt; and finally Sokar, the falcon-headed guardian of the underworld and patron of craftsmen. All the gods, with the exception of Hathor and Sokar, are carrying the ankh, the Egyptian symbol of life. Sokar is carrying the Was-scepter, which is a symbol of power and divine authority.

 

I’m glad I saw this carving of captives. Hussein explained that when the Egyptians brought back captives from war, they dislocated their shoulders to keep them under control. Once they returned to Egypt, they relocated the shoulders of the captives.

 

It was quite dark by the time we concluded our visit to Kom Ombu temple, and dramatic lighting made the ancient ruins seem to glow from within. 

 

Our tickets to the Kom Ombu site included entrance to the Crocodile Museum where we saw a number of mummified crocs. I hope you don’t want to see the mummies, because I didn’t take any pictures of them. However, I thought this object, a votive offering to Sobek that dates back to the time of the New Kingdom pharaoh Amenhotep III (1410-1372 BCE), was interesting.

 

We were back on the boat in plenty of time for festive dinner of Egyptian specialties, which included the dishes we had learned to prepare at our cooking lesson.

After a full day of activities, I decided not to attend the post-dinner galabiya costume party. I needed to restore my energy for the following day’s visit to Edfu, where we’d see – you guessed it – another ancient temple.