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| Genoa - just north of the port |
The story of my recent journey through Italy began a couple of years ago when I was searching for a trip to take in the spring of 2026. Specifically, I was trying to decide between two trips. The first was the OAT trip to northern Italy, a region I had not previously visited. Several travelers I had met in recent years had enthusiastically recommended the trip. The scenery certainly looked beautiful. At the same time, I was considering a Grand Circle trip went to both the Amalfi coast and Tuscany. In addition to seeing a different scenic area of Italy, I’d have the opportunity to see both Pompeii and Herculaneum. I was having trouble making up my mind between the two very attractive options. So, once I was on the phone with OAT/GCT, I decided to take the two trips back to back. The first trip would be northern Italy, starting in mid-April, followed by two days on my own in Sorrento before the start of GCT’s Impressions of Italy. This meant I’d be gone a total of 5 ½ weeks.
My adventure began in the city of Genoa on a sunny Sunday afternoon in April. I arrived early so I’d have a day or two on my own prior to the official start of my OAT tour. As usual, a few weeks before leaving home, I’d done some research (studying maps, reading about history and sights) on the places I’d be visiting. Here is a little background information about Genoa, capital of Italy’s Liguria region.
Genoa is located on the Mediterranean coast in northwestern Italy. Its earliest known inhabitants were the Ligures, who settled there in the 5th millennium BCE. They were followed by Celts, Phoenicians, and Romans. After the fall of Rome, the city, along with the surrounding area, was occupied by the Goths, the Byzantines (the Eastern Roman Empire), the Lombards, and the Franks. In 1099, it became a republic and it remained an independent city state from the 11th to 18th century.
Located on a natural harbor, Genoa has a long history as a maritime power. In fact, throughout the centuries, it was one of Italy’s four maritime republics, the others being Venice, Pisa, and Amalfi. Genoa’s chief rival was Venice. The two city-states vied for supremacy of the Mediterranean and control of maritime trading routes leading to the East.
In addition, Genoa was a great financial power. A state bank, the Bank of St. George (historic protector of the city) was established in 1407 and financed many European monarchs. The 16th century is considered to be Genoa’s golden age. During this time, it was ruled by the Grand Admiral Andrea Doria, a virtual dictator who drove out the French and led naval campaigns against the Ottoman Empire. Also, starting at this time, Genoa became closely allied with Spain. Genoese bankers financed much of Spain’s explorations and global wars, bringing great wealth to the city.
Genoa’s independence officially came to an end when Napoleon conquered the city in 1797. After Napoleon’s defeat, the Congress of Vienna awarded Genoa to the Kingdom of Sardinia. It later joined the new Kingdom of Italy that was formed in 1861. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, important industries, such as shipbuilding and steel, developed in Genoa. It has remained Italy’s busiest port and a major commercial center. With a population of a little over 800,000 in the metropolitan area, it is the country’s 6th largest city.
My hotel was located in the harbor area overlooking the Porto Antico (old port).
Before I explored the old port, however, I set out to wander through the nearby historic center of the city. Turning into the maze of narrow streets and alleyways that rose steeply from the port, I discovered churches, piazzas filled with cafés, and special bakeries devoted to focaccia, a Genoese specialty.
One of the first things I did was stop for gelato – pistachio, in this case.
It wasn’t long before I found myself in front of the 12th century Cathedral of San Lorenzo with its distinctive façade. The stripes come from a combination of white marble and gabbro, a dark stone found in Liguria. A massive pair of stone lions guards the entrance. The architecture is a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic.
I took a quick look at the interior which continued the striped theme. It reminded me of some of the Moorish architecture I had seen in southern Spain.
Just behind the cathedral, facing the Piazza Matteotti, is the Chiesa del Gesù e dei Santi Ambrogio e Andrea, known as the Gesù Church. This 16th century Baroque gem contains two paintings by Flemish master Peter Paul Rubens.
There were plenty of historic buildings, including the Palazzo Ducale, the residence of the Genoese Doge since 1339 and now a museum.
Eventually, I reached Genoa’s main square, the Piazza de Ferrari, with its 1930s bronze fountain in the center.
The Carlo Felice Opera House faces the square. An equestrian statue of Garibaldi stands in front of the theater.
Before the sun set, I headed back to the port area where Eataly, the combination grocery store and restaurant, caught my attention. I’d visited their New York City location a few years ago. That solved the problem of where to eat dinner. From the Italian-only menu, I ordered a quinoa salad and something called supplì, mainly so I could find out what it was. It turned out to be a tasty croquette made of risotto with a gooey cheese center.
After satisfying my hunger, I checked the array of tantalizing grocery items and selected three bars of Italian-made dark chocolate to ensure that I had enough for my daily dose. And then, after a very full day, I allowed myself to go back to the hotel and plan some activities for the next day, when I’d be on my own again.
The following morning, the first item on my agenda was a visit to the Mercato Orientale, the large indoor marketplace for produce, meats, cheeses, breads, prepared food, gifts, and much more. It was raining gently as I walked first to the Piazza de Ferrari and then along Genoa’s main shopping street, via XX Settembre.
While the scene outside was dreary and gray, the marketplace was a riot of color and tempting aromas.
I couldn’t resist buying a wedge of focaccia with herbs as a snack. It left my fingers slick with olive oil but it was so delicious.
Next, I navigated my way to via Garibaldi, a long pedestrian-only street lined with 42 palazzos built as residences for Genoa’s wealthiest families in the 16th to 18th centuries. The street is on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Nowadays, most are occupied by banks and municipal offices. However, it’s still possible to admire the façades and to catch a glimpse of the courtyards.
Past the palazzos were all sorts of shops and cafés.
When I spied a gelateria, I tried another of my favorite flavors, nocciola (hazelnut).
Although I’d just eaten gelato, I stopped soon afterwards for an actual restaurant lunch. Gaia Vino was tucked into a tiny side street. To balance out the gelato, I started with a big mixed salad and followed with pasta – saffron taglierini (a thin ribbon-like egg pasta, popular in northern Italy) with shrimp and a bit of pesto.
Fully satiated, I resumed my walk through the historic center of Genoa.
But before long, I headed in the direction of the hotel for some much-needed rest. By late afternoon, I’d recovered my energy. In the evening, I joined two fellow travelers for dinner at the same restaurant where I’d eaten lunch. This time, I indulged my passion for pasta by ordering ravioli with tocco, a Genoese meat sauce.
Illuminated at night, the streets of the historic district looked magical. I was looking forward to continuing my discoveries in Genoa the next day with my OAT trip leader.
