Monday, May 13, 2013 – Time
Travelling in the Land of Enchantment
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| Enchanted Mesa - seen from Sky City (Acoma Pueblo) |
I offer my apologies for
not blogging sooner. I spent most of the
past week time-traveling through New Mexico. I’ve been an Acoma Pueblo Indian living in an
adobe house on a high mesa in 1200; I’ve been a Spanish Jew forcibly converted
to Christianity in 1391; I’ve been a converso fleeing to New Spain after the Edict of Expulsion in
1492; I’ve been a converso
living in fear of the Inquisition in Mexico City in the 16th
century; I’ve been a proud Spaniard army officer leading a group of settlers to
the northernmost regions of New Spain in 1598; I’ve been a 17th
century crypto-Jew in an isolated village who lights candles every Friday
evening; I’ve been a Pueblo Indian rebelling against the Spanish in 1680; I’ve
been an 18th century Catholic priest who guards the secrets of his
crypto-Jewish family; I’ve been a 19th century Jewish immigrant from
Germany starting a new life in Albuquerque and giving money to complete the
Church of San Felipe de Neri; I’ve been a modern-day Pueblo Indian seeking to
retain the ancient rituals of my people; and I’ve been a 21st
century Catholic woman from an old Spanish family, discovering my Jewish
ancestry for the first time. No wonder
I’m exhausted!
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| Sky City (Acoma Pueblo) |
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| Sky City (Acoma Pueblo) |
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| Interior of San Felipe de Neri in Old Town Albuquerque |
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| Old Town Albuquerque |
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| Santuario in Chimayo |
From our expert Road
Scholar lecturers and from the recommended readings, I gained a wealth of
information about the history of conversos on the Iberian Peninsula and then in the New World. We concluded the program by learning about how
today’s descendants of conversos
and crypto-Jews are dealing questions of identity and their past. In addition to attending lectures, we explored
the city of Albuquerque (the Pueblo Indian Cultural Center and Hispanic
Cultural Center were standouts) and the surrounding area. Field trips to Sky City (the Acoma Pueblo
village on the high mesa), Chimayo (its church is the holiest Catholic site in
New Mexico; the village was settled by conversos), and Santa Fe (the colonial capital city) added
immensely to our understanding of the unique blend of cultures (Native
American, Spanish, and Anglo) alive today in New Mexico. In addition to the fascinating history and
culture, it’s a world like none other in terms of the landscape. What it lacks in greenery, it makes up for
with dramatic rock formations, seemingly endless vistas, and an enormous dome
of sky. I understand now why New
Mexico’s nickname is “the land of enchantment.”
The only disappointment of
the trip was the traditional New Mexican cuisine. I’m not a big fan of chiles, which seem to be
included in every dish. In fact, the
official state question is “green or red?”
After one scorching taste of enchiladas doused in red chile sauce, I quickly learned to
specify “chile on the side.” This, however,
resulted in some boringly bland and heavy meals. And while the sopaipillas, cheesy quesadillas, and freshly prepared tortilla chips were tasty, the
high fat content was a challenge for my indigestive system. I’m sure my stomach is glad to be back home.
But this trip gave me a
greater appreciation for the rich diversity of our country and made me eager to
continue exploring the U.S.
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