Marsala and Mozia

On a sunny Sunday morning, under a brilliant blue sky, we set out from our Mazara del Vallo base to explore more of Trapani province. 

We headed north along the Mediterranean coast to the city of Marsala. Most people have heard of Marsala because of its sweet red wine that’s used in the popular dish, veal Marsala. But did you know that Marsala is also a leading producer of sea salt? I certainly didn’t, but I was about to find out as we approached the Marsala salt pans, the lagoon where sea salt forms and is harvested. 

As our bus lumbered along the Salt Road near the city’s port, I looked out at colorful rowboats bobbing just offshore. A stiff breeze was making ripples in the water and this being the weekend, sailors and kite surfers were out in force. Soon, white hills – hills of salt – and windmills came into view. They stretched across the wide flat expanse of the salt pans. We stopped into the Museo di Sale, a small museum housed in a 16^thcentury windmill, to learn about the traditional methods of salt production and refining. 

The sea salt crystals are formed by evaporation of sea water but the process actually has several different stages. From the exhibits and films, I learned that there are four levels of salt pans and the movement of water from the first pan (and level) to second through fourth pans is controlled by the use of a device known as the Archimedes screw. 

Sea salt production is seasonal work. The first harvest, which is done manually with rakes and shovels, takes place in July. It’s backbreaking work in the heat of the summer, with workdays lasting from sunup until sundown. Our guide noted that it’s difficult to find workers willing to take on the job. Harvesting continues through August and September, with the salt mountains taking shape. 

Tools for harvesting sea salt

In November, workers place unglazed terra cotta tiles over the salt mountains so that the salt remains organic while it dries. The tiles are removed in February. Traditionally, the salt would be ground right here at the mill, using the heavy (300 and 500 kg) millstones. Nowadays, however, the salt is transported to the nearby city of Trapani for grinding. 

Our guide standing next to a mountain of salt

 

The millstones 

The harvesting of fior di sale (known in French as fleur de sel) is quite different. This very delicate type of sea salt forms as a thin veil on the surface of the water in the pans. It can only be removed during the first hours of the morning on windless summer days. Unlike ordinary sea salt, fior di sale contains a higher concentration of minerals and does not have to be ground. It’s also much costlier than the more common sea salt. 

A salt tasting at the museum shop helped us appreciate the differences between the two types of sea salt. The ordinary sea salt definitely left a harsher taste on the tongue. In addition, we sampled several varieties of flavored salts (with herbs, citrus, etc.). My purchases included two jars of fior di sale (one plain, the other flavored with juniper, thyme, and orange peel) and two bars of the most delicious dark chocolate with fior di sale. 

Once we were familiar with the basics of salt production, our guide brought us out to walk on the narrow paths between the salt pans. The noticeable rosy color in the third level pans comes from the eggs of the tiny brine shrimp that live in the water. These are the same shrimp that are responsible for giving flamingoes their distinctive coloration. In fact, our guide told us that every May, flocks of flamingoes descend on the salt pans to feast on the shrimp. 

Looking out across the lagoon, we could see a number of small islands. One of them, the island of Mozia, was our next destination. Mozia (also spelled Motya) is only .6 miles from the mainland and the water of the lagoon is so shallow that it would be possible to walk across to reach the island. However, we made the very short wind-whipped journey by motorboat.  

Approaching the island of Mozia

Mozia is a tiny privately owned island that was originally settled by the Phoenicians about 2700 years ago. The Phoenicians were renowned in the ancient world as traders, and one of their most sought after products was a purple dye derived from mollusk shells. The shells came from the city of Tyre. When the Phoenicians reached Mozia, they discovered that the island was another source of the prized shells. 

The Greeks arrived in Mozia in the 1^stcentury BCE and built the fortress and temples whose ruins still stand on the island today. A Sicilian-English ornithologist and archaeologist named Giuseppe Whitaker acquired the island in the 1800s. Mozia is now owned by the Whitaker Foundation.

A small museum displays artifacts from several ancient civilizations that were found on the island. We spent a couple of hours following footpaths to numerous archaeological sites that are still in the process of being excavated. 

We followed this four-legged guide around the island.

Mosaics from ancient times

Another site being excavated

When it was lunchtime, Sonia set up a picnic for us in a shady spot. The simple spread of tomatoes, olives, anchovies, cheese, bread and melon was just what we needed after so many recent multi-course meals. She also brought along a bottle of Florio, a local white wine, for us to sample. Unlike the sweet Marsala wine used in the preparation of veal Marsala, this wine was delightfully dry, resembling a fino sherry. If you ever get a chance, I highly recommend that you give it a try.

And then it was back to the mainland and one final night at our luxury resort before continuing on to another region of Sicily.