At last it was time to head up to the Andes, in search of the Incas – and blue skies, too. We would be starting our adventures in Peru’s Sacred Valley, which got its name because the Urubamba River and its valley were sacred to the Incas. Fortunately, I had a window seat on the flight from Lima to Cusco and I was excited as the rugged mountain peaks came into view. I was also a bit concerned about how my body would react to the altitude.
OAT had planned the itinerary of our trip with altitude adjustment in mind. Going directly from sea level to 11,000 feet to start intensive hiking would likely result in severe altitude sickness. Therefore, once we arrived in Cusco, we would be leaving immediately for the Sacred Valley, at about 9,000 feet, to give our bodies a chance to adjust more gradually. In fact, as soon as we boarded our private bus, Walter handed out coca candies, which are supposed to help prevent the headaches and other symptoms associated with altitude sickness.
Our route took us first of all through Cusco, a major city with a population of 500,000 people, most of whom are mestizo. Walter told us that the modern name of the city comes from its Quechua name, Qosqo, which means “center of the world.” Cusco was the Inca capital, and we’d be returning here later in the trip.
Traveling north, on the outskirts of Cusco, we could see the steep terraces built by the Incas and ruins of their temples. There are a limited number of roads in the area, and before we started our descent into the Sacred Valley, we actually had to climb up to 12,400 feet. Fortunately, the coca candies seemed to be working for me. While a few members of the group complained of headaches, I didn’t experience any such altitude-related problems.
Our progress was slow since the roads in this part of the country were bumpy and full of switchbacks – plus we stopped frequently to take photos of llamas and alpacas. The landscape was stunning, the hillsides dotted with Inca terraces dating back to the 1430s. Walter explained the layering process for terrace construction: first big rocks, then small rocks, then gravel, then dirt, and finally fertile soil.
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| With our tour leader, Walter |
He also pointed out the groves of eucalyptus trees that have spread throughout the Sacred Valley. These trees, which were imported from Australia in the 1800s, have created major problems because they soak up all the water.
A lunchtime picnic stop gave us a chance to see more llamas and alpacas. I also noticed a farmer plowing his field. Like most small farmers in this area, he was working without the aid of any modern machinery.
Along the way, Walter shared some basic information about the history of the Incas. First of all, the word “Inca” was originally used only to describe the emperor. Only later was it used to describe the people.
There were 13 Incas, i.e. emperors. The first, Manco Capac, founded the city of Cusco in the 12th century. He was called the Son of the Sun. The ninth Inca, Pachacutec (also spelled Pachacuti), who ruled from 1438 to 1471, greatly expanded the empire from Cusco. At its height, around the year 1493, it encompassed an area of nearly 3000 square miles, ranging north to south from Ecuador and Colombia to Chile, and west to east from the Pacific coast to the Andes mountains and then to the Amazon jungle. The Incas eventually ruled close to 12 million people. In order to maintain control of the vast area, they built a system of roads totaling nearly 25,000 miles. And the most of the people they conquered adopted the Inca language, called Quechua.
We made a mid-afternoon stop at the Pisac archaeological park, located 33 kilometers northeast of Cusco, at the southern end of the Sacred Valley. The site originally served as a defensive outpost during pre-Inca times. During the reign of Pachacutec, it was turned into a residence, observatory, citadel, and religious center. Today, it is considered one of the finest Inca archaeological sites in Peru.
I was eager to explore Pisac although I was a bit tired (blame it on the early morning departure and the higher altitude). Walter mentioned that we’d be hiking, but I had no idea what to expect until I started climbing – up and up, stretching to reach steep steps, scrambling over irregularly placed rough stones – and struggling to catch my breath in the thin air. This was nothing like the climb at the Pucllana pyramid in Lima! Hiking in the Andes was a totally different experience, one that took me completely out of my comfort zone. Of course, there was no choice but to keep going.
When one of my fellow travelers asked why the Incas, who were relatively short in stature, built steps that were so steep, Walter replied, “The more important the site, the steeper the steps.”
At the highest point, on a mountainous ridge, we were standing 11,500 feet above sea level, having climbed from 9500 feet. The wind was blowing fiercely, the sun was dipping lower, and the temperature was dropping.
The vista of the Urubamba Valley opened below us, and it was impossible not to notice how seamlessly the terraces blended into the natural curvature of the landscape.
In addition to terraces, the ruins included aqueducts, water channels, bridges, paths, cemeteries, towers, and a temple complex. As was often the case, the Sun Temple was aligned to the winter solstice sunrise. Looking at the Inca cemetery (tombs carved into the hillside), I recalled that the Incas buried their dead in fetal position. The idea was to return to the earth in the same position as they were born in.
Afterwards, back on the bus, I congratulated myself on completing the hike but wondered if hiking poles would make the upcoming hikes easier. I’d left mine home because they didn’t fit into my suitcase, but everyone told me they could be purchased at many of the sites.
It was a welcome relief when we finally arrived shortly before sunset at our hotel in Urubamba. It was a comfortable resort-like property on the outskirts of town. After our gray days in the city of Lima, I appreciated the beauty of the setting.
A hot water dispenser and a bowl of coca leaves were set out on a table so I fixed myself a cup of coca tea. The flavor wasn’t at all unpleasant.
On the subject of coca, during our stay in Urubamba, we had a conversation with a farming couple who grow coca, a major cash crop in Peru. Coca has traditionally been used in the indigenous communities, much like we drink coffee or cola for the caffeine. It also has medicinal uses and is used in religious ceremonies. Nowadays, however, much of it ends up in the hands of drug traffickers since it is a key ingredient in cocaine. Coca for personal use is legal in Peru, but the government has tried, rather unsuccessfully, to control its commercial production and distribution. The coca growers we spoke with were aware of the controversy involving coca and were willing to take the risks involved in their business since it is much more lucrative than growing legal crops.
The small town of Urubamba is located northwest of Cusco, and it’s the most important town in the Sacred Valley. It doesn’t cater much to tourists so it was interesting to stroll through its main plaza and the surrounding streets.
We passed by some even smaller towns in the Sacred Valley, including Calca, which is known for its restaurants that specialize in cuy, i.e. guinea pig. Statues of smiling and well-dressed guinea pigs line the road. Guinea pig is a traditional food going back to Inca times. It is still served whole on special occasions, such as birthdays.
I was not at all interested in trying guinea pig, but when we broke into smaller groups to visit typical Peruvian families for a home-hosted lunch in the Sacred Valley, guinea pig was certain to be on the menu. A multi-generational mestizo family welcomed us into their spacious tile-roofed home, which featured two levels, a patio, a vegetable and herb garden, and an outdoor kitchen as well as a kitchen in the house.
We were then invited to help prepare chiles rellenos, which we fried over a wood fire in the outdoor kitchen. By the way, these were a Peruvian version of chiles rellenos (stuffed with cooked vegetables, topped with a masa batter) that were quite different from their Mexican counterparts.
I also helped by bringing the platter of roasted guinea pig out to the table. Fortunately, guinea pig wasn’t the only dish that was served at lunchtime. We started the meal with delicious quinoa soup, loaded with vegetables. I then filled my plate with rice, corn, mixed vegetables, and the chiles rellenos.
Thinking about guinea pigs, during our time in Peru, I probably saw hundreds, if not thousands, of the animals (alive, not on plates). Many people, especially in the countryside, keep them at home (usually confined to the kitchen). Some people raise them commercially for sale, and keep them in separate enclosures.
Walter arranged for us to visit a very traditional Indian house, where guinea pigs were roaming freely. In the interior, he pointed out the three skulls perched on a shelf on the wall. He told us that it is common in the indigenous community to dig up the body of a family member a few years after the burial and to place the person’s skull in a prominent position in the house as a reminder that the dead are still part of the family’s life. We also noticed a dead condor and a fetal llama, both sacred to the Inca, hanging on the wall. These customs reminded us that many of Peru’s Indians maintain their Inca traditions centuries after the Spanish conquest and their conversion to Catholicism.
Our second day in the Sacred Valley started with a rafting adventure on the Urubamba River. This was another new experience for me. In case you weren’t aware, I’m not exactly the outdoorsy/sporty type. Once we were all decked out in the appropriate gear, we pushed off into the chilly river. The waters were calm most of the time – except when they weren’t, such as when we were headed towards some rocks. Actually, as rafting goes, it was a relatively tame ride, but I found it exhilarating!
After the thrill of the raft ride, I would have been happy to sit in a café with a cup of coffee and then move on to ice cream and an early lunch. But instead, it was time to set out for the Inca site of Ollantaytambo, located 60 miles north of Cusco at the northwest end of the Sacred Valley. The archaeological site is located right in the town itself.
After the previous day’s hike in Pisac, I knew what to expect. At the Indian market right outside the entrance to the site, I purchased a walking stick for 30 soles (less than $8). It did, in fact, make me feel more secure although I still found the climb extremely challenging.
Like Pisac, Ollantaytambo was probably built by Pachucutec in the mid 1400s and served as a military, religious, and agricultural center. In 1537, a large battle took place here between a rebel Inca army led by Manco Inca and an army of Spanish invaders, led by Francisco Pizarro. The Spanish were forced to withdrew to Cusco, but they soon received reinforcements, causing Manco Inca to abandon Ollantaytambo.
The Ollantaytambo archaeological site includes the well-preserved ruins of an Inca temple and fortress. We climbed 245 steps to reach the highest point. Getting a close look at the Temple of the Sun, I was amazed to see how the huge carved granite blocks fit so perfectly together.
The town of Ollantaytambo (elevation 9160 feet) has been continuously inhabited by indigenous communities for centuries. Walter described it as a “living museum” since many of the Indian residents continue their traditional lifestyles. Nowadays, the town attracts a lot of visitors since it is the main starting point for the Inca Trail. Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a four-day, three-night endeavor (usually with sherpas to carry your supplies). The town has a distinctly New Age vibe, with plenty of hostels for backpackers, restaurants for tourists, and massage parlors to ease your sore muscles. It’s also where you can get the train to Aguas Calientes, the town closest to Machu Picchu.
Another activity we managed to fit into our very busy schedule in the Sacred Valley was a visit to a typical chicha bar, also known as an “ajha wasi” in Quechua.
Although 9am may not be the ideal time to sample alcoholic beverages, I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to try the traditional fermented corn brew. The owners of the bar showed us the process of making chicha – drying the corn for several days, crushing it in a grinder (although the traditional method was to chew it and spit it out), adding boiling water, wheat, and spices, such as cinnamon and cloves, then boiling the mixture for about 20 minutes, and finally filtering it.
A large glass of the foam-topped golden drink costs only 1 sol, about 26 cents. There’s also a purple version called chicha morada that is sweetened with sugar. It gets its color from strawberries. The chicha morada is slightly more costly at 2 soles (a little over 50 cents) and is supposedly favored by women.
Walter demonstrated the traditional Quechua toast, which involved acknowledging the apus (sacred mountains) by naming them and acknowledging Pachamama (mother earth) by pouring a few drops on the dirt floor.
While we were sampling our drinks, Walter picked up a charanga that was hanging on the wall and played some typical Andean tunes for us. This small stringed instrument was developed during colonial times. An armadillo shell traditionally forms the back of the instrument.
Afterwards, the owners introduced us to a popular bar game called sapo, which means “toad.” Several sapo tables were set up on the patio. The game gets its name from the metal toad that sits at the front of the tabletop. There are also slots, holes, and metal spinners on the tabletop. Each player gets a number of heavy disks that he or she throws at the table from a designated distance. The disks then fall through to a drawer with boxes under the tabletop. Each box has a different point value. You earn the most points if your disk falls through the toad’s mouth. Players keep track of their points and betting is often involved.
Playing sapo is harder than it initially looks. When it was my turn, my score was zero. Maybe I needed to drink more chicha. But there wasn’t time for that. We had a train to catch for Machu Picchu. So, grab your passport and come along with me!
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