Magical Medieval Carcassonne

How exciting it was to be back in France! It had been so long since the last time I was in the country. To be precise, the year was 2007. That’s when Elliott and I spent a couple of weeks in the southeastern corner of France, in the area where we lived in the 1980s. Now, after flying into Toulouse, I found myself in a region previously unknown to me: Occitania, or the Languedoc, in the southwestern part of France.  

I was actually en route to Carcassonne, located about 90 minutes away from Toulouse. On the taxi ride from the airport, I looked out at a picture-perfect landscape – mostly flat with gentle hills, sun-kissed fields in shades of green, oceans of poppies, stands of poplar trees with their fluttering leaves, the clear cerulean dome of the sky. Something about it seemed familiar – the super-saturated colors, the special quality of the light – all reminiscent of my former corner of Provence. But there were differences, too, such as the ridge of the Pyrenees, that hovered over the horizon.  

 

I’d wanted to see Carcassonne for as long as I can remember. This longing for places from the past goes back to my childhood when I fell in love with history. I even had fantasies of living as a princess in a castle – even though I realize I would probably have been a serf rather than a member of the nobility if I’d lived in the Middle Ages. Even so, there’s something that still thrills me about immersing myself in historical settings. It’s the feeling I got when Elliott brought me to the medieval perched village in the South of France where we spent the early years of our marriage. I’d been anticipating recapturing that feeling in Carcassonne, and I felt that Elliott would be with me in spirit.

 

I thought of him as I tried out my rusty French in a conversation with the taxi driver. When we reached the outskirts of Carcassonne, the towers of the medieval city, set up on a hillside, rose above farmhouses, fields of olive trees, and vineyards. Once we reached the ramparts, the taxi had to stop. Most vehicles are restricted from entering the medieval city (known as La Cité), where my hotel, Hotel le Donjon (“the dungeon”) was located. A small car provided by the hotel took me the rest of the way, over a small bridge leading to the Narbonne Gate, one of the traditional gates in the ramparts. 

 

I barely stopped to cast off my travel gear and take in the view from my window before setting out to get oriented and explore my surroundings. 

Right outside my hotel was a small square with shops, cafés, and restaurants. But it was mid-afternoon and I needed to walk after spending so many hours sitting on airplanes and in airports. So, map in hand, I headed a short distance down the inclined stone streets towards the other access point in the ramparts, the 13^th century Aude Gate. From there, I walked down a steep trail and slowly made my way to the 14^th century Pont Vieux, the bridge over the Aude River. This pedestrian-only bridge leads into the lower town, known as Ville Basse, or Bastide St. Louis, which dates back to the 13^th century. 

A brisk stroll brought me to the spacious and leafy Place Carnot, a popular spot where locals sit at outdoor café and restaurant tables shaded by umbrellas. I was tempted to sit down and order a truly decadent ice cream treat. But realizing that I hadn’t eaten anything truly healthy since leaving home the previous day, I first popped into a nearby Carrefour Express and picked up a packaged salad. Once I’d gobbled that up, I headed to the nearest ice cream shop. After all, I rationalized, I needed to restore my energy for the walk back up the steep hill to La Cité.

View of La Cité from the Vieux Pont

 

At 6pm, my OAT group had our first meeting with Tour Leader Cyril in the hotel garden. Afterwards, it was dinnertime – and time to eat again. While I’d already eaten several times during the day, beginning with breakfast on my transatlantic flight, I thought it would be best to adjust to the local time zone as soon as possible. 

 

The Place Marcou, just a few minutes from the hotel, was lined with restaurants catering to tourists. I would normally avoid such places, but at the time, the adrenalin that had carried me through the long travel day was starting to wear off. I quickly sat down at an outside table and ordered a crepe with jambon and champignons (ham and mushrooms) for dinner. 

By the time I finished eating, daylight was fading and there was a slight chill in the air. The day tourists had cleared out and the streets were eerily quiet. Walking back to my hotel, I was reminded of the quiet that descended on our village in the South of France at the end of every day. 

 

The next day was devoted to exploring La Cité with a local guide. There are 3 kilometers of ramparts, making Carcassonne the largest, as well as best-preserved, medieval fortress in Europe. The two rings of walls (inner and outer) are 10 meters high and three meters deep. The fortifications include 52 towers and barbicans. Before I took this trip, I didn’t even know what a barbican was. In case you’re not familiar with the term, it means the outer defense of a castle or walled city. Often, it’s a double tower above a gate or draw bridge. 

 

As we walked with our guide, I also learned a lot about Carcassonne’s long history. The Romans arrived in the 2^nd century BCE and began building the first fortifications. The remains of Roman ramparts and towers are still visible. Carcassonne was a prosperous Roman-Gallo city until the collapse of the Roman Empire. 

 

After battling other tribes for dominance, the Visigoths from Spain took control of the city. However, the entire Languedoc region remained engulfed in chaos and lawlessness for several centuries afterwards. As a result, the local population of farmers sought refuge inside the thick walls of La Cité. It is estimated that approximately 3000 people lived within the walls during the Middle Ages. 

 

In the early 700s, the Saracens (Muslim Arabs and Berbers) from North Africa invaded the Languedoc. In 725, they seized control of Carcassonne from the Visigoths and held the city for 30 years. They were eventually ousted by Frankish forces under Charlemagne. However, the Muslim presence in the South of France lasted until the late 12^th century.

 

According to legend, the name “Carcassonne” dates back to the time of Saracen rule in the city. Dame Carcas, the widow of the Saracen ruler, led the defense of the city when it was under siege by the Frankish army. When the Frankish invaders were turned back, Dame Carcas rang all the bells in the city to celebrate the victory. Combining “Carcas” for Dame Carcas, and “sonne,” which is the French verb for “ring,” gives us Carcassonne, which translates to “Carcas is ringing.” 

Representation of Dame Carcas outside the Narbonne Gate

By the late 11^th century, Carcassonne was under the control of the noble Trencavel family. They built the Chateau Comtal as well as extensive fortifications. Under Trencavel control, the city prospered economically. However, religious conflict brought new unrest to Carcassonne and the entire Languedoc. 

 

The Trencavels were supporters of the Cathars, also known as Albigensians. The Cathars were a group of Christians who were challenging the authority of the Pope. This group, which originated in the South of France, found many supporters in the Languedoc region. They are often referred to as “the Protestants” of their time due to their new ideas about Christianity. In some ways, they were actually pretty progressive, such as in their desire for a more democratic Church and for expanded rights for women. But what really upset the Church in Rome was a basic religious belief of the Cathars. The Cathars were dualists, i.e. they believed in two gods, a god of good and a god of evil. 

 

The Pope, who had a great deal of temporal power in addition to his religious authority, was determined to crush the heresy, so around 1200 CE, he asked the King of France for military help. The King sent army of 20,000 from Lyon in a crusade against the Cathars. The crusaders mounted a siege against Carcassonne in 1209, and the viscount Trencavel was forced to surrender. In 1226, the town was formally annexed to the holdings of the King of France and additional fortifications were built. Carcassonne had strategic importance since it was located just inside the French border with Spain until 1659. 

 

After several centuries of decline and neglect, much of medieval Carcassonne was restored in the 19^thcentury under the direction of French architect Viollet-le-Duc. We spent a couple of hours walking along the ramparts and looking out at wonderful views of the countryside from the towers. 

 

Remaining towers include several U-shaped Roman towers from the 4^th century as well as an early Visigoth tower. In addition, some of the most distinctive towers were the early 13^th century Inquisition tower with its cone-shaped roof, and a square Bishop’s tower from late 13^th century. 

 

A museum just inside the ramparts houses medieval sculptures, funeral slabs, and a mural that was found on the first floor of the dungeon. The mural, which uses rare lapis lazuli for the blue pigment, shows scenes of combat between French knights and Saracens. 

Also within the medieval city, the Basilica of St. Nazaire and Saint-Celse features beautiful stained glass windows. Construction of the church began in 1096 and the interior is a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles. Major work was done on the façade in the 19^th century. 

 

The oldest house in La Cité dates back to the 1500s.

 

Unlike during the Middle Ages, the buildings in La Cité are nowadays occupied mainly by shops, restaurants, and other businesses serving the tourists who flock to immerse themselves in Carcassonne’s medieval heritage. It’s one of the top tourist sites in France. 

 

Carcassonne is a very family friendly place. Inside the medieval city, costumed reenactors roam the streets, delighting the younger visitors. Shops sell toy swords and shields, and workshops in traditional arts are offered throughout the year for school age children. There are a number of nearby lakes and parks, all of which adds to Carcassonne’s popularity with tourists. 

As a retired teacher, I found Carcassonne’s Musée de l’école (School Museum) very interesting. With a focus on the period from the late 1800s through the late 1950s, the museum recreates a typical classroom and displays educational materials in use during that time period. Notice the poster designed to teach children about the dangers of alcohol consumption.  

Not surprisingly, we ate (and drank!) quite well while we were in Carcassonne. The daily breakfast buffet was probably my favorite meal of the day. I could easily have spent all morning in the hotel’s breakfast room, refilling my cup from the Nespresso machine and munching on flaky, buttery croissants and pains raisins (Elliott’s favorite). 

 

For one group lunch, the main course was cassoulet, a typical specialty of the Languedoc. I declined to subject my somewhat finicky digestive system to the dish of beans, sausage, and duck, but those who tried it pronounced it quite tasty. 

Fortunately, salads were plentiful and desserts were both beautiful and delicious – for example, this raspberry mousse cake. 

 

On one evening, we had a cheese tasting for dinner in the garden of the hotel. Our tour leader set out five different kinds of cheese, along with crusty baguettes and local white wine. 

 

And one sunny afternoon, we spent a couple of hours on the Canal du Midi to get a different view of the area. We even went through a couple of locks, which was a new experience for me. The 150-mile long Canal du Midi, built in the 17^th century, is part of a system that links the Mediterranean Sea with the Atlantic Ocean. It has been in continuous use since 1810, making it one of the oldest canals in Europe still in operation. Carcassonne is located at the highest point on the canal. From Carcassonne, the waters of the canal flow east to Mediterranean and west to the Atlantic. 

 

As interesting as it is during the day, it’s at night when Carcassonne casts its magic spell.