A Last Look at Galicia

We spent a day in the western coastal area of Galicia that is sometimes called “Galifornia.” This refers to its relatively mild climate and its popular Atlantic beaches. Because of its long coastline, Galicia has had plenty of invaders over the centuries. As a result, the culture and population reflect the mixture of Celtic, Greek, Jewish, Roman, Visigoth, Muslim, English, and French presence. In fact, “Galicia” is derived from the name of a Celtic tribe who lived in the area prior to the arrival of the Romans in the 1^st century BCE. Although the inhabitants of the region eventually adopted Christianity, they retained many Celtic pagan rituals, creating a unique religious blend.  

Culturally, Galicia is more Portuguese and Spanish. Gallego (the Galician language), which we saw on signs throughout the region, is very similar to Portuguese. I did a little research and discovered that when Portugal gained its independence from Spain in 1139, Galicia was divided, with one part joining Portugal while the other part remained under Spanish rule. (I wonder if the “gal” in “Portugal” refers to Galicia.) 

 

There are not many big cities in Galicia. The largest city, Vigo, has about 300,000 residents. Most Galicians make their homes in its numerous small villages. The economy of the region is based on agriculture and fishing. According to our local guide, the people are very attached to the land. They traditionally live in multi-generational households, which I can certainly relate to. In the late 19^th century, half the population of Galicia moved to Americas, especially South America. In later years, many of Galicia’s men moved to other European countries in search of jobs while the women remained behind. Currently, about 2 million people live in Galicia.

 

After leaving the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela, we drove south to Pontevedra, a riverside city of 83,000 people. It’s located about 50 miles north of today’s border with Portugal. From our guide, I learned a bit of the city’s history.

 

In the 2^nd century CE, the Romans built Pontevedra on a hill of granite. The name of the city means “old bridge,” a reminder of the numerous bridges built by the Romans throughout the area. 

 

As long ago as the 9^th century, pilgrims traveling on the Portuguese Way to Santiago de Compostela would stop in Pontevedra, as they still do today. During our walk through Pontevedra’s old town, which dates back to the 13^th-15^th centuries, we saw several cruceiros. These sculpted stone crosses are a Celtic symbol of protection. They are often placed at crossroads, or near churches or cemeteries, and you can find about 10,000 of them in Galicia. The one pictured below, from Pontevedra, shows Adam and Eve.

Pontevedra is proud of its well-preserved medieval ruins that date back to the 14^th-15^th century. The Santo Domingo Monastery complex, built in the Galician Gothic style, includes displays of sculptures, gravestones, and heraldic carvings. 

Another historical fact our guide shared is that one of Columbus’ ships, the Santa Maria, was built in Pontevedra. She also pointed out the Basilica of Santa Maria la Mayor, built for the guild of fishermen in the 16^th century. It’s an excellent example of Galician Gothic architecture. 

We came across the statue of a late 19^th/early 20^th century Galician writer, Ramon Maria del Valle-Inclan, who is well-known across Spain for his poetry and plays. 

 

The real pleasure in Pontevedra was simply walking through the uncrowded streets and witnessing everyday life. 

At the Mercado Municipal, there were so many tempting local products. 

I marveled at the abundance of sardines, mussels, and plenty of other seafood I couldn’t even identify.

And when our group tired of walking, we stopped for chocolate and churros in the Praza da Verdura (a plaza where an open-air market is held). 

A short 20-minute drive brought us to Combarro, a typical south Galician coastal village dating back to the 12^th century. It’s located on a long tidal inlet that leads to the Atlantic Ocean. Its inhabitants traditionally earned a living as fishermen and farmers. According to our guide, the Church actually owned all the land until the 18th century.

On our walk through the village, we learned that the narrow stone houses were only wide enough to store a pair of oars. 

We also came across cruceiros and the 18^th century church of San Roque.

Combarro is known for its raised granaries called horreos. These stone granaries on stilts were built in the 18^th century to keep out moisture and rodents. Slots in the walls allow for ventilation. They are often decorated with crosses or other symbols.

The harvesting of shellfish is a major commercial activity in Combarro. On the shore of the tidal inlet, we met with a local resident, Raquel, who demonstrated how shellfish are harvested.  

 

In the lovely port area, we enjoyed some garlicky clams at lunchtime. 

Next stop – Portugal!