Sunday, April 22, 2012

Falling for Pittsburgh


Sunday, April 22, 2012 – Falling for Pittsburgh

Dear Pittsburgh,
I never expected to fall for you, but I have.  I love your sense of history and your sense of community.  I love your red brick buildings, your church spires, and your front porches.  I don’t quite understand your geography yet, but I like the fact that you have not just one, but three rivers!  Another great thing is how you’ve kept the character of your ethnic neighborhoods.  You have museums, parks, restaurants, unique shops, coffee bars – everything I look for in a city.  Now, if you would only change your weather….  Yesterday was cold and rainy.  Today was cold and almost rainy.  It’s now so misty that it might as well be raining.  And the forecast for tomorrow – the 23rd of April – is for snow!!!  I promise to return, but not until summer.    Your Secret Admirer. 

We’ve had a wonderful time discovering the many charms of this city on three rivers.  Taylor picked us up downtown on Friday afternoon and gave us a brief driving tour of several areas on our way to pick up Karen and then go back to their home in a section of the city called Churchill.  What struck me right away was that Pittsburgh is a hilly city.  The cities I know best – New York, Boston, and Washington – are mostly flat.  I admire Taylor’s skill in finding his way around.  There seems to be no system whatsoever to the streets, many of which are one-way.  There is certainly nothing like driver-friendly grid pattern.  Fortunately, I didn’t have to drive or navigate.  I could simply look out the windows and soak up the sights. 

We had more opportunities over the course of the weekend to appreciate the diversity of the city.  Our itinerary on Saturday brought us to the Oakland area where most of the museums and major universities are located.  It was definitely “museum-weather,” i.e. not a day when you’d want to be walking around outside.  We spent a couple of very enjoyable hours at the Carnegie (accent on the second syllable if you want to sound like a Pittsburgh native) Museum.  They have a wonderful permanent collection of European and American art.  We focused on the galleries featuring work from the 19th through 20th centuries.  The work is arranged in strict chronological order, with each gallery devoted to a ten to twenty-year period of time.  So instead of seeing three Monet paintings in a single gallery, we saw a very early Monet in one gallery, a later Monet in a second gallery, and a panel from the Water Lilies series in a third gallery.  We enjoyed seeing unfamiliar works by artists such as Mary Cassatt, Cézanne (a very early landscape, quite thickly painted), Edward Hopper (the first painting he ever sold), and Renoir (a large vertical painting of a garden in Montmartre, the flowers painted with joyful abandon).    There were also some charming works by Pissarro, Bonnard, and Gustav Klimt.  I especially liked Mondrian’s Trees, painted in muted shades of grays, lavenders, and tans; Richard Diebenkorn’s abstract Berkeley No. 38; and Joan Mitchell’s 1968 painting entitled Low Water.  The only thing missing was a painting by Elliott Thompson.  It would have looked right at home in the gallery alongside works by Frank Stella, Ellsworth Kelly, and Morris Louis.  But I’d have to say that the highlight of the museum, for me, was Matisse’s The Thousand and One Nights, which is on temporary display in a separate gallery.  This large-scale work, made of painted paper cut-outs, is based on the tale of Scheherazade.  Matisse created this piece when he was in his eighties and found painting on canvas too challenging physically.  It is colorful, whimsical, exuberant, exotic, organic – and I guess that’s why Matisse remains one of my favorite artists of all time.   

After our museum visit, we drove to an interesting area known as the Strip District. If it hadn’t been raining, we would have taken a leisurely stroll past the trendy shops, cafés, and galleries.  Since it was already after 2:00 p.m. and we were starving, we headed directly to our destination, Osteria 2350 on Railroad Avenue.  It’s a simple, unpretentious Italian deli/restaurant with terrific food.  Every choice on the menu sounded tempting.  While we debated what to order, we dipped the excellent freshly baked bread into basil-infused olive oil.  Elliott is a soup-and-sandwich kind of guy, so he quickly made up his mind:  a bowl of sausage-rapini-white bean soup and a sandwich of Italian cold cuts (salami, cappicola, prosciutto, sopressata, Provolone).  Karen and I ended up sharing a warm tomato salad (poached tomatoes, garlic, fresh mozzarella, basil, balsamic vinaigrette), grilled marinated eggplant slices, and a pasta dish with caramelized mushrooms, truffle oil, arugula, and Parmesan.  Of course, on this chilly damp afternoon, I had to order a cappuccino.  And since we were in an Italian restaurant, we needed an Italian dessert:  cannoli stuffed with orange-scented cream, chocolate chips, and pistachio nuts.  Then it was back out into the rain for a ride through the Breeze Point and Squirrel Hill sections of the city.  








The weather was slightly better on Sunday – still cold and gloomy, but no precipitation.  Karen and Taylor brought us to one of their favorite places for a very special brunch:  the Inn on Negley.  They first stayed at this Victorian bed and breakfast in Shady Side when they were still living in Belgium.  The B&B is a warm, gracious, and delightful setting for weekend brunch or afternoon tea.  Our multi-course brunch began with coffee or tea, a platter of freshly cut fruit, and a plate of miniature vanilla-rhubarb muffins.  The second course consisted of a tomato salad, a variety of cheeses, crackers, and olives.  Next, we had to choose our main course from the following selections:  spring onion frittata, spring vegetable omelette, and waffles with strawberry-rhubarb compote.  All were accompanied by crisp toast, sautéed multi-hued potatoes, and bacon, sausage, or ham.  Everything was delicious – but we weren’t finished yet.  A birthday cupcake for Elliott appeared, along with dense squares of chocolate brownies.  What a fabulous treat!  If you’re ever in Pittsburgh, don’t miss this place.







Our geography lesson continued after brunch with a drive up to Mount Washington.  From this high vantage point, we had an excellent view of the city spread out below.  I was especially interested in seeing the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers and the spit of land called The Point where the two rivers converge, forming the Ohio River.  The wind was whipping, so we didn’t linger.  But back down in the Oakland area, we stopped to see the Heinz Chapel on the University of Pittsburgh campus.  This neo-Gothic jewel was built in the 1930s by the Heinz family (of ketchup fame).  Some have compared its gorgeous stained glass windows to those in the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.  I certainly wasn’t disappointed.  The eight 73-foot-tall transept windows depict historical figures and events.  There are 15 additional stained glass windows in the chapel, all beautifully designed and executed.  Our visit was perfectly timed.  A women’s choir practicing in the chapel provided a serene accompaniment. 




It’s been a lovely weekend.  I just hope that the snow doesn’t interfere with our plans to take the bus back to DC on Monday morning. 

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