Argentina Adventures: A Day on the Estancia

Ever since I’d booked my ticket to Buenos Aires, I’d been hoping a visit to an estancia (ranch).  As the end of my month in Argentina approached, I realized I still hadn’t seen the windswept pampas or the legendary gauchos.  In my mind, I could see myself on horseback, my hair flying behind me as I galloped alongside the gauchos (conveniently forgetting the fact that I hadn’t ridden a horse in over 40 years, and even then, my riding experience was limited to trotting around a ring in summer camp).   

On the estancia

Finally, on my last weekend in Argentina, my wish was granted.  Along with Elisa, Christian, and Silvie, I set off for a dia de campo at Don Silvano, an estancia that welcomes guests.  This “field day” or “day in the country” is a popular excursion for Argentine families, as well as for tourists from other countries.

Bienvenido a Don Silvano

Upon our arrival at the estancia, about 55 miles (90 minutes) northwest of Buenos Aires, we were welcomed by Santiago, one of the gauchos, and ushered towards a shelter where we snacked on warm empanadas and wine or juice.  Even though it was still technically morning, I opted for the wine.  As we were munching and sipping, we reviewed the day’s schedule:  a horseback or carriage ride, followed by an asado lunch with entertainment, a little free time for shopping or playing, then a gaucho show, and lastly another snack late in the afternoon before our departure. 

I took a quick look around – the sky was cloudy day and the land was flat – but what impressed me most was the number of people of all ages who were enjoying the simple pleasures of life away from the city.  Some of the youngest children were in strollers while older kids were running after each other or kicking a soccer ball around an open field.  I noticed couples walking hand in hand and a brave soul crossing overhead on a zip line.  And how refreshing it was to see that not a single person was playing an electronic game or using a cell phone.  (Actually, there was no cell service on the property.) 

We walked past roaming chickens and peacocks to greet the horses in the paddock.  When I showed Sylvie how to give a horse a gentle pat, she seemed a little hesitant.  However, a short time later, she didn’t protest at all about sitting in the saddle when it was time for our horseback ride.  Of course, Elisa was sitting with her and holding her securely.  Once a small group of us were seated on our horses, one of the estancia’s experienced riders led us out onto the pampas.  It was a strange sensation to be on horseback again.  I really had to concentrate to keep my balance in the saddle, especially when climbing up or down rough terrain.  I kept thinking that a seatbelt would be useful.  Thankfully, our horses were content to plod along at a slow pace.

Once our feet were on the ground again, we headed to the sprawling playground, and gave Sylvie a chance to run around.  Before we knew it, we were being called into the dining room, a cavernous barn-like structure, where we joined about 180 convivial guests from all over the world for a traditional Argentine asado.  A typical asado is a weekend or holiday social event where families and friends gather for a barbeque, with the men doing the grilling.  At Don Silvano, all the guests sat at long communal tables that were already set with bowls of salads, baskets of rolls, and bottles of wine and mineral water.  Servers ran back and forth with platters of sizzling grilled meats, including sausages, chicken, and various cuts of beef.  Elisa, who doesn’t eat any meat, had plenty to eat with skewers of vegetables cooked on the parrilla.  A dulce de leche based dessert concluded the feast. 

Lunchtime entertainment 

While we were stuffing ourselves, a guitarist/singer and a pair of costumed dancers provided entertainment.  They performed songs and dances from various regions of Argentina and made us all feel like one big extended family.  Of course, while all this was going on, Elisa, Christian and I took turns running outside to supervise Sylvie, who was back in the playground. 

Around 3 p.m., people started gathering in the stands for the gaucho show.  We couldn’t have asked for a more perfect setting.  The sky had been overcast all day, but now, as the sun neared the horizon, golden rays streamed across the pampas, casting long shadows.  Argentine flags were snapping in the brisk breeze.  In the distance, sheep were grazing.  Suddenly, a trio of gauchos on horseback thundered out and the show of dazzling equestrian prowess began. 

 Seated on his horse, Santiago explained – and I mostly understood his Spanish – the skills they were demonstrating.  He also told us about a custom from the old days on the pampas.  During this time when men vastly outnumbered women in the colony, gauchos came up with a unique way to find wives.  While a crowd watched, they would compete in daredevil displays on horseback, including a game of reaching for a metal ring while galloping at full speed.  The winner of the competition would present the ring to the lady of his choice, claiming her as his bride. 

At our gaucho show, the custom was modified.  The three riders competed in several different games and races.  Each time, the winner selected a woman in the stands.  Instead of whisking her off to be his wife, he was entitled to a kiss from her.  And if the woman had a husband, the husband would be required to kiss the gaucho’s horse.  We all had a good laugh when Elisa was chosen. 

And then it came time for the final event.  Santiago announced that the three gauchos would gallop past, and each would attempt to grab a metal ring.  If the rider succeeded, he could claim two kisses from his chosen woman.  The event was over in a matter of seconds.  All three riders proudly held up their metal rings and scanned the crowd of onlookers.  I was both shocked and thrilled when Santiago motioned to me and presented me with the prized metal ring.  Of course, I gladly bestowed two kisses on his sweaty face and tucked the ring into my pocket. 

The finale of the gaucho show

Our day on the estancia was nearly over.  Before we departed, we congregated outside for a typical Argentine snack.  While we were sipping maté cocido (the teabag form of maté) and biting into delicious quince-filled pastries, we all agreed that our dia de campo at Don Silvano had been a perfect day.  I’d certainly recommend it to anyone who’s visiting Buenos Aires and is seeking some family-friendly fun in a casual summer camp environment.  The day on the estancia had certainly exceeded my expectations.  While I hadn’t gone galloping across the pampas, I’d not only met a genuine gaucho, I’d even kissed one!