Kochi: The Legendary City of Cochin

I can’t remember when I first heard of Cochin, the city known today as Kochi.  It could have been decades ago.  Maybe it was in a magazine article or in a book about Jewish communities in exotic locales.  I recall going with Elliott to see a photo exhibit on the Jews of Cochin about ten years ago in Washington, DC.  It struck me as so exotic yet so familiar.  Maybe it was then that the idea of going to faraway Cochin became lodged in my brain. 

As I’ve previously mentioned, I’ve had a longtime fascination with India, so the combination of India and Judaism was irresistible to me.  In my overactive imagination, I could see myself dressed in a beautiful silk sari, cooking enticing curries, and welcoming the Sabbath.  For years, thoughts of actually traveling to Cochin remained just a dream.  But now I was on the verge of realizing that dream.

My excitement built steadily over the course of the two-hour bus ride from the backwaters town of Aleppy to the coastal city of Kochi.  For several centuries, Cochin was known as “The Queen of the Arabian Sea.”  Today, Kochi is a sprawling city with over two million inhabitants, and the most westernized city in the entire country.  Geographically, Kochi includes mainland Ernakulam and several islands, including the barrier island where the historic neighborhoods of Fort Cochin and Mattancherry are located. 

The city has a very diverse population, with Hindus comprising 52%, Muslims 24%, and Christians 24%.  At one time, there was a sizeable Jewish population as well.  It seems remarkable to me that people of all these different faiths have lived together in harmony for so long in Kerala.  I wanted to know more about the history of this multi-cultural and multi-religious society.  Fortunately, Jaisingh was ready with some helpful information. 

As we traveled along Kerala’s fairly modern roads, he told us that Arab traders first arrived on India’s Malabar coast in the 1^st century CE.  They mixed with local women, which may explain why the people of Kerala have somewhat lighter skin than other South Indians.

There’s also a large Christian presence, possibly dating back to the arrival of St. Thomas in 52 AD.  Portuguese missionaries and traders began coming to Kerala soon after the explorer Vasco da Gama reached Kochi in 1498.  The Portuguese remained in control of the area until they were ousted by the Dutch in 1668. 

As far as Jewish history is concerned, there is much debate about the origin of Kochi’s Jewish community.  Some scholars believe that Jews first arrived after the destruction of the first temple by the Babylonians in the 6^th century BCE.  Another wave came in the aftermath of the destruction of the second temple by the Romans in the 1^st century CE. 

According to the EncyclopediaJudaica, a seaport named Cranganore had existed on India’s west coast, just north of present-day Kochi, since antiquity.  The Malabar Jews consider this their original home.  The Hindu raja (ruler) of the area granted them cultural and religious freedom.  It is likely that many members of the community were traders in luxury items, such as gold, spices and ivory.  In the early 14^th century, the harbor of Cranganore silted up, and many residents, including Jews, relocated to Kochi.  In 1523, when the Portuguese conquered Cranganore, the remaining Jews fled to Kochi (about 18 miles) and other cities along the Malabar coast. 

Rahel Musleah, a Jewish journalist born in Kolkata, notes that Jews fleeing the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal settled in Kochi in the early 16^th century.  Around the same time, Jewish immigrants came from Baghdad, Yemen, other parts of the Middle East, and from Europe.  They built the Paradesi synagogue, which is still standing, in 1568.  In the early 1600s, the Portuguese and the Dutch vied for control of the valuable port city.  When the Portuguese were in control, the Jews faced persecution.  However, when the Dutch defeated the Portuguese, the Jews of Kochi were free to practice their religion.  Their community continued to flourish when the British took over in 1795, with several wealthy families taking an active part in civic affairs.  Most of Kochi’s Jewish population relocated to Israel soon after India gained its independence.  Today, very few Jews remain in the city.   (You can read Rahel Musleah’s article, “Kochi – an Ancient Jewish Treasure in South India,” in the March/April 2017 issue of Hadassah Magazine.) 

It was mid-morning when we reached our delightful hotel in Fort Kochi.  This historic seaside area is easy to explore on foot and is very popular with tourists.  We took a quick orientation walk around the immediate area, and then boarded our bus for a short ride to the Mattancherry neighborhood. 

The Killians, a boutique hotel in Fort Kochi

"Shalom" bus - a reminder of Kochi's Jewish history

A reminder of Kerala's Communist government

The area of Mattancherry that was once the center of life for the Jewish community is still called Jew Town.  It is here that the Paradesi Synagogue is located.  Jew Town is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Kochi.  The streets near the synagogue are lined with shops selling a wide range of handicrafts and Judaica items.  Today, the shops are mostly Muslim-owned although Sarah’s Embroidery belongs to one of few remaining Jewish families in Kochi.  I stopped in there and bought a matzoh cover and a challah cover. 

On Synagogue Lane

That's Sarah Cohen on the right.  She's in her nineties.

I could hardly wait to step inside the 16^th century synagogue, the oldest in India.  From the outside, you can’t imagine what delights the interior holds.  Before entering, visitors must first remove their shoes so as not to damage the blue and white hand-painted Chinese floor tiles. We weren’t allowed to take photos, which is a shame, because the sanctuary sparkled with color and light from Belgian crystal chandeliers and hanging lanterns.  There’s a central raised bimah, a teak ark containing the Torah scrolls, and a women’s balcony.  Services are held weekly.

The unassuming entrance to the Paradesi Synagogue is on the left.

Just around the corner from the synagogue is the Mattancherry Palace.  The two-story palace was built by the Portuguese in the mid-1500s as a gift for the local raja (Hindu ruler) of Kochi.  The building is filled with portraits of the ruling family and long murals depicting stories from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, two classics of Hindu literature.  Once again, I was disappointed that photography was prohibited.  

Entrance to the palace grounds

In the Mattancherry Palace gardens

When we finished our visit to the palace, it was time for a shopping and lunch break.  Despite all the shopping I’d previously done, I couldn’t resist the beautiful cotton tunics and long silky scarves fluttering at the doorways of the shops that lined the streets between the palace and the synagogue.  After I made a few purchases, I joined a couple of fellow travelers for lunch at the Mocha Art Café on Synagogue Lane.  With its cheerful, modern décor – exposed brick, framed artwork and hanging plants – the casual restaurant looked like it belonged in a trendy Brooklyn neighborhood.  Even the menu featured familiar favorites.  The shakshuka was good, but iced coffee (almost like a milkshake) was even better.   

Mocha Art Café on Synagogue Lane

The cultural highlight of our stay in Kochi was a traditional Kathakali dance performance.  This art form developed in the 17^th century, and was traditionally performed at temples during festivals.  The dances tell classic Hindu tales that would be familiar to Indian audiences.  The dancers (men only!) use elaborate makeup and costumes to become the characters they portray.  We arrived at the cultural center early, and were able to watch some of their lengthy preparation.  Through eye movements, facial expressions and hand gestures, the dancers convey different emotions and the action of the story.  They are accompanied by a drum, cymbals or bells, and chanting in Malayalam.  One interesting note – the hero of the story always has a green face.  In the performance we saw, the hero Jayanta, son of the god Indra, was fighting against a demon who was masquerading as a woman. 

Lengthy preparation for a Kathakali dance performance

The hero, Jayanta, is on the left and the demon, disguised as a woman, is on the right. 

I finished up my first day in Kochi with a walk along the waterfront.  The distinctive Chinese fishing nets were silhouetted against the late afternoon sky.  Fishermen were pulling in their boats and gathering by the shore.  I walked among them, stepping carefully around the day’s catch. 

Notice the tiny fish speared on the large one.  

The following morning started off with important decision-making:  motorbike or auto-rickshaw?  We had to choose the means of transportation for an early morning visit to a residential neighborhood in Mattancherry.  While several of my fellow travelers opted to travel on motorbikes driven by local youths, I wimped out and climbed into an auto-rickshaw.  We set off through the crowded streets as the residents were making their way to work and school.  Along the way, we made a brief stop at a local Hindu temple.  Although we didn’t go inside, I was able to see how the architecture of this wooden structure looked different from the stone temples we’d seen in Tamil Nadu.

I should have been brave, like fellow traveller Mumta.

No, the driver didn't actually let me drive the auto-rickshaw.

Hindu temple made of wood

Back down at the waterfront in Fort Kochi, we got some exercise helping pull in the Chinese fishing nets.  Actually, with so many hands at work, it wasn’t very difficult. 

The picturesque area near the Chinese fishing nets is a tourist mecca, with open-air stalls selling all sorts of goods, including freshly caught fish, which you can purchase and then have cooked to order at several nearby restaurants.  This is also where you’ll find St. Francis Church, the oldest European church in India.  The Portuguese built the church in 1503, and Vasco de Gama was buried here when he died in Kochi in 1524.  Several years later, however, his body was taken back to Portugal.  The church is still used today.  It has no air-conditioning, but hand-pulled fabric “fans” (connected to ropes) provide a cooling breeze on steamy days.  Since it was December, the church was decorated for Christmas. 

The interior of St. Francis Church

One thing that impressed me throughout my travels in India was how beautiful the women looked.  No matter their economic station, they looked graceful and elegant in their beautifully draped saris.  But how in the world did they take a six and half meter length of fabric and end up so well dressed?  To get an answer, I attended a sari demonstration at our hotel, where I was one of several group members recruited to participate.  The first thing I learned is that women wear a petticoat under the sari.  The wrapping technique involves lots of pinching and folding, and it helps to have an extra pair of hands.  Safety pins come in handy, too.  I also learned that there is no one correct way to wear a sari.  There are regional differences and personal preferences.  We also saw the relatively simple procedure for wrapping the men’s garment called a lungi.   

The final group activity was an evening harbor cruise.  When we went to board our boat, I was glad we weren’t caught up in the crush of people trying to board the evening commuter ferry to Ernakulam (mainland).  Judging from the container ships we saw in the harbor, Kochi is still an active port.  By the time we were back on land, the sun had set.  Dinner back at the hotel was bittersweet.  Most of the group would be departing very early in the morning.  I’d spent over two weeks traveling with them, and I would miss their company. 

But at the same time, I was looking forward to being on my own in Kochi the following day.  I could get up when I wanted and wander at will, without being tied to anyone’s schedule.  I started my last morning in India with a ten-minute walk to Santa Cruz Basilica, which dates back to the 16^th century.  The road that led to the church was decorated with white banners because it was the Christmas season.  Students were arriving for classes at the basilica’s girls’ school.  I watched them pour out of packed mini-buses, hop off the backs of motor scooters, zoom past on bicycles, and walk briskly towards the church. 

Interior of Santa Cruz Basilica 

Later, I took an auto-rickshaw ride for one last look at Mattancherry.  En route to Jew Town, the driver stopped and let me peer through the gates of the Jewish cemetery.  

I did some last-minute shopping on Princess Street in Fort Kochi.  Mostly, I bought jewelry, which didn’t take up much room in my luggage.  However, I also treated myself to a luxurious shahmina shawl.  It’s soft, light as a feather, and quite warm.  I’m so glad I had time to linger in the shop and learn from the very knowledgeable salesman about differences in materials and workmanship.  He also gave me a very useful tip about cleaning all kinds of metal jewelry.  The secret is Colgate’s tooth powder, a product I’ve never seen in the U.S.  He even sent someone out to purchase a tin for me.

Thanks to Jhon Zaigam for teaching me about shahmina and pashmina.

I brought this tin of Colgate tooth powder home with me.

I treated myself to a sumptuous lunch at the Menorah Restaurant at Koder House.  Located in the former residence of the Jewish Koder family, the restaurant offers delicacies from a range of cuisines – Jewish, Kerala, Indian, Continental – in an elegant setting.  While fans whirled overhead, I sat and looked out at old family photos adorning white washed walls, Mediterranean arches, dark wooden ceiling beams, and a Christmas tree with twinkling lights.  Knowing that this would be my last “real” meal in India, I didn’t stint when it came to ordering.  The pappadams were light and crispy, almost melting in my mouth.  The midday heat convinced me to order a fresh lime soda, and I’m glad I did.  The waiter brought me a tall glass with freshly squeezed lime juice at the bottom and long with a bottle of fizzy water, along with sugar and salt so I could season the drink to my taste.  Truly, it needed neither.  I feasted on grilled calamari, vegetable korma, and lemon rice, savoring every bite.  I couldn’t finish it all, but I made a valiant effort. 

The Menorah Restaurant is located in the former home of the Koder family.

After lunch, several hours remained before I had to leave for the airport to catch my 3:30 a.m. flight.  I considered getting a therapeutic massage, as Kerala is known for ayurvedic medicine and I had noticed several ayurvedic clinics and spas in my travels around the city.  Even my hotel offered a menu of ayurvedic treatments.  

Very reasonable prices!

At $18 for a 45-minute relaxation massage, I was tempted.  Instead, I spent my final afternoon sitting poolside at the hotel, reflecting on the amazing experiences I’d had in India.  I can’t say enough positive things about this O.A.T. adventure.  If you’d like to follow in my footsteps, check out the Soul of India tour on the O.A.T.website.  Now, it's time to figure out how and when I'm going to get back to India.