A Wintery Spring Break

 I believe there’s an unwritten rule that college students are required away for spring break.  And since I’m auditing classes at George Mason University, I’m technically a college student once again, and therefore required to get out of town during this time.  However, rather than joining the herds of students flocking to the beaches of Florida and the Caribbean, I prefer a more interesting destination.  Last year, I took a university-run trip to Portugal, which was great.  But this year’s itineraries didn’t appeal to me, and as 2017 came to an end, I still didn’t have any firm travel plans.

Then, just a few days after I returned from India in late December, I happened to glance at the travel section of the newspaper and saw that Scandinavian Airlines was offering very low fares to European cities through the end of March.  Within 24 hours, my spring break plans were set – a flight to Stockholm and five nights in a hotel.

The decision to go to Sweden wasn’t totally random.  I fell in love with Scandinavia many, many years ago, when I was a college undergraduate studying for a semester in Copenhagen, Denmark.  Since that initial exposure to the Scandinavian lifestyle, I’ve made several visits to Denmark and Norway.  However, I’d never gotten to Sweden.  A little online research convinced me that Stockholm would offer enough interesting sights to keep me occupied for 4-5 days.  Also in its favor, Stockholm seemed like the kind of city where I would feel comfortable exploring on my own. 

Of course, I knew why the airfares were low.  Winter is not exactly the height of tourist season in Scandinavia. I took the precaution of checking average March weather in Stockholm before I made my reservations.  Daytime temperatures in the 30s didn’t sound too bad.  As the date of my departure approached, though, I discovered that all of Europe was having a historically cold and snowy winter.  Just to be prepared, I invested in a longer lightweight down jacket and plenty of Heat-Tech thermal tops and bottoms, in case I needed extra protection. 

The trip got off to an auspicious start.  The overnight flight from DC to Copenhagen (where I made a connection) had plenty of extra seats, so I was able to stretch out across an entire middle section and get some rest, if not actual sleep.  The Flygbussarna brought me from the airport to downtown Stockholm in about 45 minutes, and then it was just a short walk (5 minutes in theory, 20 minutes if you factor in my navigational errors) to my hotel.  As soon as I dropped off my luggage (just a carry-on bag), fortified myself at the hotel’s lunch smorgasbord, and checked my map, I set out to explore Stockholm on foot. 

Thus began a five-day urban trek of discovery.  Each day, I bundled myself up in multiple layers of clothing and walked at least five miles, often more.  And while the temperatures were freezing and there was ice and snow on every surface, the sky was usually a beautiful blue, even when a few snowflakes were swirling through the air.   

Stockholm made quite a positive first impression.  Knowing it was the country’s capital and a major city, I was expecting it to be more crowded with people and cars, more noisy, more congested, and with more of a rushed feeling.  I was struck by how quiet, orderly and calm Stockholm seemed.  Even at a time when people would be going to or returning from work, a sense of calm prevailed.  In addition, throughout the city, buildings were low and human in scale.  The architecture was a harmonious blend of the old and new.  The city proved to be very compact and walkable, and never felt overwhelming.

Stockholm’s natural setting, spread across a cluster of islands, adds to the city’s visual appeal.  I never seemed to be far from the water.  Small bridges, for pedestrians and cars, link the islands.  Of course, at this time of year, much of the water is still choked with ice.  But I could easily imagine how delightful it would be to cruise through the archipelago in the warmer months.

My hotel, Downtown Camper by Scandic, offered all the amenities I required.  One especially attractive feature was the lounge area on the top floor called The Nest.  You could curl up here at any time with a cup of coffee or tea, a glass of beer or wine, look out the windows at a panoramic view of the city or gaze into a crackling log fire.  The hotel was ideally located in the Norrmalm district, within walking distance of shops, a pedestrian shopping street, restaurants, cafés, the central public transportation hub, and several museums and cultural attractions.

My first tourist stop was the Stockholm Medieval Museum, where I hoped to get a sense of city’s origins.  The underground exhibition space is built into the remains of an early settlement that was excavated in the 1970s.  Archaeological evidence shows that the town of Stockholm dates back to the year 1252 CE although defenses may have existed as early as the 11^th century.  Museum exhibits covered the life of everyday people during the period from 1050 CE, when the country began to adopt Christianity, to 1527 CE, when King Gustavus Vasa carried out the Reformation.

On the way to the underground Medieval Museum

11th century rhinestone at the Medieval Museum

Just a short walk over one of several bridges brought me to Gamla Stan, the “old town.”  This area of the city is dominated by the Royal Palace and the Stor Kyrka, an old historic church.  Gamla Stan is probably the most popular area for tourists, and its quaint charm is undeniable.  However, walking up the steep cobblestone streets, with their coating of gravel, ice and slask (slush), required careful attention.  As you would expect, you’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafés, antique stores, and souvenir shops in this area.  

Walking up to the Royal Palace

Picturesque streets in Gamla Stan

Antique store in Gamla Stan

Based on a recommendation from my hotel concierge, I found a quiet and very un-touristy restaurant in Gamla Stan for my first dinner in Stockholm.  Elliott would have loved the  traditional meal that I ordered: Swedish meatballs covered in cream gravy, and accompanied by velvety smooth puréed potatoes, sweet-tart lingonberries, tangy pickled cucumber salad, a variety of homemade breads, and local butter.

The following morning brought blue skies although temperatures remained in the teens.  After indulging in the amazing breakfast buffet at the hotel, I returned to Gamla Stan to visit the Royal Palace, where I toured beautifully decorated apartments (the usual sumptuous fabrics, crystal chandeliers, gilded furniture, paintings and sculpture) and learned quite a bit about history of Sweden’s royal family.  Through previous reading (after all, I was a history major), I already knew that the Swedes had imported one of Napoleon’s generals, Jean Bernadotte, to become their monarch. The original Bernadotte king took the name Karl IV Johan when he assumed the throne in 1818.  His French-born wife, Désirée, had a rough time adjusting to her new home.  After spending her first winter in Stockholm, she fled back to France and didn’t return to the Swedish capital for several years.  Although Désirée became queen of Sweden, she never learned to speak the language of her adopted country.

Part of the Royal Palace

The Treasury of the palace 

Snow began to fall gently as I walked out from the palace into the narrow streets of Gamla Stan.  Fortunately, the flurries didn’t last for long and the sky remained blue throughout.  The same phenomenon occurred several times during my stay in Stockholm.  After a quick lunch, I walked a few blocks to the Swedish Academy to see the Nobel Museum.  With exhibits on Nobel laureates and tours in English as well as Swedish, this small museum offers visitors a unique experience.  I particularly enjoyed the current exhibit on writers awarded the literature prize.  It gave me some ideas for future reading. 

The Nobel Museum (located in the Swedish Academy) 

After all of that hard work being a tourist, I thought I deserved a decadent treat.  It just so happened that I’d spotted the Chokladkoppen Café on the plaza adjacent to the Nobel Museum.  I escaped from the cold with a mid-afternoon cappuccino and a slice of raspberry pie with vanilla sauce.  Mmmm. 

Stockholm has a number of fascinating museums.  I spent a few enjoyable and educational hours at the Swedish History Museum in Ostermalm.  The scope of the exhibits ranges from prehistory to contemporary times.  The information is presented in an engaging, accessible format, with plenty of interactive exhibits geared towards children of all ages.  One interesting fact I learned is that Jews were first granted the right to practice their religion freely by royal decree in 1775.  

The Ostermalm neighborhood, which is adjacent to Norrmalm, is primarily residential and contains a fabulous food hall.  There was an amazing variety of fresh fish, baked goods, sweets, fruits, and vegetables.  From all the tempting offerings, I chose a blueberry bulle for a snack.  The dough was bursting with fresh berries and the center of the bun was filled with a dollop of delicious vanilla cream. 

Architecture in Ostermalm

In the Ostermalm Food Hall

A delicious blueberry vanilla bun

Over the course of walks through the city of Stockholm, I saw several historic churches.  Both Sankt Jakob’s (St. James) Kyrka, near the Opera House, and Sankta Klara, near my hotel, were begun in the late 16^th century.  The medieval Riddarholm Kyrkan (burial place of Sweden’s monarchs, closed during the winter months), on a small islet that’s part of Gamla Stan, dates back to the late 13^th century.  In Ostermalm, I passed by the beautiful 18^th century Hedvig Eleanora Kyrka.  The religious building most symbolic of Stockholm is the 13^th century Stor Kyrkan (Great Church, built in the distinctive Swedish Brick Gothic style, which towers above all the other buildings in Gamla Stan.

Sankt Jakobs Kyrka

Interior of Sankt Jakobs

Sankta Klara 

Stor Kyrkan 

Hedvig Eleanora Kyrka 

Riddarholm Kyrkan 

Before I left home, I had made advance arrangements (necessary due to security concerns) to attend Friday evening services at Stockholm’s historic Stora Synagoga, or Great Synagogue.  This large, stately stone building, in Neo-Moorish style, dates to the 1860s.  It is located on a quiet street in Norrmalm.   I joined about 100 worshippers, including many families with children, at a joyful and musical Shabbat service.  While I was only familiar with a few of the melodies, I was able to follow the Hebrew in their Swedish/Hebrew prayer books easily enough.  I wish I’d been able to take photos of the beautiful and tastefully decorated sanctuary.

Before I knew it, the weekend had arrived, and I planned to pack a lot of sights and activities into those two days.  On Saturday, I took a short tram ride to the island of Djurgarden, where I visited both the Vasa Museum and the Nordic Museum.

The Vasa Museum, which features a rebuilt Swedish war ship from 1628, is especially popular with families.  The enormous wooden ship sank in Stockholm harbor on its maiden voyage and remained under water for over 300 years.  It was later determined that the ship sank because it was too narrow and top-heavy and that it lacked adequate stone ballast.  Over 400 crew members were on board at the time of the disaster.  It’s remarkable that only 30 died, given that the ship sank within 3 minutes.  When the ship was discovered essentially intact in Stockholm harbor in 1961, careful plans were made to raise and salvage it.  98% of the reconstructed ship’s materials are original.  The museum provides information on shipbuilding, showcases the ship’s beautiful carvings, tells the story of maritime warfare, and provides insight into the lives of Stockholmers in the early 17^th century. 

The Nordic Museum, located next door to the Vasa Museum, opened in 1907 and is housed in an imposing Renaissance style building.  In the grand hall, a monumental statue of the King Gustav Vasa, who ruled from 1523 to 1560, gazes down at museum visitors.  This monarch is acknowledged as the founder of the city of Stockholm.  The museum houses a wide variety of permanent and temporary exhibits, featuring fashion, jewelry, folk art, toys, home décor, photography, and more.  One of the more interesting exhibits focused on table settings through the centuries.  This is where I learned about the origin of the word “punch.” You can trace it back to the 1700s, when ships of the Swedish East India company traded actively with East Asia, bringing home luxury goods such as silk, porcelain, and tea.  In addition, they brought back a new drink called “punsch.”  The word comes from the Indian word for “five,” since it’s a mixture of five ingredients:  sugar, water, tea, lemon and arrack (an alcoholic beverage from Southeast Asia).  Drinking punsch became part of the evening ritual for men who gathered to smoke and play cards.

A grandmother clock and a grandfather clock 

A table set with punch bowls, pipes, and playing cards

Although Saturday was cold, plenty of Stockholmers were out walking and enjoying the sunshine.  I took a long walk back from Djurgarden to Norrmalm, strolling along the waterfront. 

I saved one last museum for Sunday, my final day.  Skansen, Stockholm’s open-air living history museum, which opened in 1891, is the world’s first open air museum.  It includes over 150 buildings transported from all regions of Sweden and reconstructed on site.  When I arrived at the gates of Skansen at 10am (opening hour) on Sunday, temperatures were still in the low 20s.  Brrrr.  However, that didn’t keep me from walking around the sprawling site.  I was able to view a manor house, two different farmsteads (with pigs, roosters, ducks, and geese), a traditional church, and several small dwellings.  Many of the buildings weren’t open at this time of year but it was beautiful to see the icicles hanging from the roofs and a thick layer of snow blanketing the ground.  In the town quarter, characters in period dress strolled the streets and manned the shops.  I watched an engraver, a baker and a potter at work.  When I walked into the bakery, the aroma of cinnamon was so powerful that I immediately ordered a kanella bulle.

Entrance to Skansen 

In the Town Quarter

Old storehouse

A country church 

From a farmstead

A farm building

A Swedish pig 

Icicles everywhere! 

The bakery 

Cinnamon buns and pretzels at the bakery in the Town Quarter 

An old hardware store in the Town Quarter

On my final afternoon in Stockholm, I headed south to Sodermalm, which many compare to Soho because of its trendy, youthful vibe.  It actually reminded me of Brooklyn, as well.  Second-hand clothing shops, galleries, parks, and boutiques abound.  I did a little shopping (grocery and clothing), then stopped for lunch at Meatballs for the People, where I got my first taste of wild boar meatballs.  (They were delicious.)

As far as food goes, Stockholm offers a great variety of choices.  In addition to traditional Swedish cuisine, there are restaurants serving Mexican, Greek, Ethiopian, Lebanese, Spanish, Irish, Thai, Japanese, Indian, Chinese and Italian food.  The restaurant prices weren’t cheap, but the food I ate in Stockholm was uniformly fresh and tasty.  In addition, everywhere I turned, I saw coffee shops and bakeries where you could get a reasonably priced snack.  One Swedish specialty that I’m glad I tried is a special Lenten pastry called “semla.” A semla is a bun split in half horizontally and filled with almond paste and whipped cream.  They come in various sizes.    

And I can’t talk about Swedish food without raving about the hotel’s daily buffet breakfast.  It’s hard to know where to begin.  I can visualize the platters piled high with gravlaks (cured salmon); jars of herring; dishes of tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, and peppers; plates of sliced meats and cheeses; baskets filled with crispy breads, rolls, flatbreads, and flaky croissants; serving bowls of yogurt (plain and flavored), muesli, granola; jars of berries in syrup; arrangements of cut up fruit; hard- and soft-boiled eggs; buttery scrambled eggs with snipped chives; bacon, sausage, baked beans; Swedish waffles; multiple varieties of juice, coffee, tea, and milk (plus non-dairy alternatives).  There was even a special section devoted to gluten-free options.  In the past, all-you-can-eat meals have been my downfall.  Fortunately, I’ve now learned to choose judiciously and eat in moderation. 

Another unexpected pleasure of Stockholm was the reliable, efficient and easy to use public transportation system.  When I needed a break from the cold, or from walking, I jumped onto a subway train.  Even at rush hour, the trains were not overly crowded.  Although I expected to do a lot of walking (and I usually walked 5-6 miles a day), I purchased an unlimited transit pass for the duration of my visit so that I could see some of the subway stations that are known for their artwork.

Shopping wasn’t a major activity on this trip.  However, on several occasions, I strolled down the pedestrian-only Drottningatan shopping street in Norrmalm and bought a few souvenirs.  I took an extended look at the upscale NK department store, the largest such store in Stockholm, and I also enjoyed window-shopping in all areas of the city.  

Inside NK department store

Swedish home furnishings 

The bakeries were irresistible.

My five days in Stockholm passed so quickly.  Just as I was starting to feel at home in the city, it was time to leave on my early morning flight.  The sun had not yet risen when I made my way from the hotel to the city terminal to board the Flygbussarna to the airport.  (And the walk only took me 5 minutes.) 

Looking back, I know I made the right decision about my spring break travel.  It was a brief trip, but it was exactly what I needed to feel refreshed and revitalized.  So, now the challenge is to pick another European city to visit during next year’s spring break.