Jerusalem, at Last!

I got my first glimpse of Jerusalem on a late Thursday afternoon, standing on the Mount of Olives, looking east towards the Old City. The last rays of the sun were illuminating the golden Dome of the Rock. It’s a famous view, immortalized in countless photos that I’d seen before, yet I still got a thrill seeing it right before my eyes. 

We spent five days in Jerusalem, which I now realize is hardly enough time to see a fraction of the sights and to soak up a bit of the atmosphere that makes it such a special place. Our first evening in the city happened to be Thanksgiving, so our group celebrated with a “special” dinner – we feasted on pizza, pasta, and salad in a restaurant near our hotel. It certainly wasn’t the traditional Thanksgiving meal but it was a nice change from the regular fare of hummus, eggplant and pita. 

The following morning, we began our sightseeing in earnest. Although we could have walked from our hotel, the Dan Boutique, to the Old City in about twenty minutes, we saved a little time by having our bus drop us off at the Jaffa Gate, one of several entry/exit points to the Old City. Alon explained that the Jaffa Gate got its name because it faces the city of Jaffa on the Mediterranean coast. The same reasoning applies to the Damascus Gate. 

When I travel, I like to study street maps in advance to get a better sense of orientation. I had looked at a map of the Old City and tried to get a good picture of the main streets in my mind, but I’m sure I would have gotten totally lost without Alon’s guidance. Once we were through the Jaffa Gate, which cuts through thick stone walls built by the Ottomans 500 years ago, we were in an open area surrounded by shops and small eating establishments. Just to our right was the Citadel, a medieval fortress that is also known as the Tower of David (although it has nothing to do with King David). If we walked straight ahead, we would be on David Street, which separates the Christian Quarter from the Armenian Quarter. And if we continued walking straight, we would eventually reach the Muslim and Jewish Quarters. 

The Citadel (Tower of David) 

Inside the Jaffa Gate

Inside the Old City, near the Jaffa Gate

Alon led us into the Christian Quarter to see a major Christian pilgrimage site, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This bascilica church is believed to stand on the site where Jesus was crucified and where his tomb was located. The earliest parts of the church date back to the reign of the Byzantine Emperor Constantine in the 4^thcentury CE. The complex was seriously damaged during the period of Muslim rule. The crusaders who arrived in Jerusalem in 1099 made restoration and enhancement of the church a priority. 

Entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher  

Standing in front of the entrance the church, Alon explained how over the centuries, different groups of Christians have fought each other, sometimes shedding blood, over control of the church complex. The interdenominational conflict was never resolved, which resulted in certain areas being partitioned off for the six different Christian religious orders (Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian, Syriac Orthodox, Coptic Christians, and Ethiopians) who continue to share ownership and responsibilities of the church. 

Alon knew how crowded the church would get and wanted us to arrive as early as possible. Even at 8:15 am, the building was already filled with masses of people jostling for a bit of personal space. Added to the physical crush was the overpowering smell of incense. But I soon forgot these minor discomforts because I was dazzled by the stunning beauty of the church’s interior. Gorgeous mosaics and paintings of religious themes decorate the walls and ceiling. Gold is extravagantly used throughout the church and jewel-toned hanging glass lamps add to the luxurious effect.  

  

Afterwards, Alon led us on a walk to some of the Stations of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa, which winds its way through the Muslim Quarter. Many of the shops on the small streets and alleys were closed since it was Friday, the Muslim holy day. From the Muslim Quarter, we entered the Jewish Quarter near the Western Wall of the Temple Mount. 

Standing in the plaza in front of the wall, we could only see the aboveground remains of the wall. However, we took a tour of the underground tunnel, which gave us access to an additional 1500 feet of the original wall. It was fascinating to see the different levels of construction, from bedrock at the lowest level up through Herodian masonry and later Muslim support structures. 

The plaza in front of the Western Wall 

Entrance to the tunnel 

Orthodox Jewish women praying in the tunnel 

Walls of the Temple Mount visible in the tunnel

After we emerged from the tunnel, I had time to walk to the women’s section of the wall (yes, it’s segregated by sex, per decree of the Orthodox rabbis that control such matters in Israel) and slip a note in a crack between the stones. 

The women's section of the Western Wall (much smaller than the men's section)  

We took a quick break for an outdoor lunch in the Jewish Quarter, then walked quickly (too quickly!) down the Cardo, the colonnaded main street built by the Romans. Along the Cardo’s stone walls, the Mosaic Project has installed a lovely series of modern mosaics, showing scenes of everyday life in the Jewish Quarter during the Byzantine era, 1400 years ago.

A plaza in the Jewish Quarter 

Challah for sale 

Part of the Mosaic Project in the Cardo

The Roman Cardo

By 3pm, shops in the Jewish Quarter were beginning to close up in preparation for the Sabbath, which would begin at sunset. We made our way down a street separating the Jewish Quarter from the Armenian Quarter, leading to the Zion Gate. This gate faces Mount Zion, the highest point in the city during ancient times. After exiting the Old City, we went inside the David’s Tomb compound to see the room where Jesus and his disciples reputedly shared the Last Supper. From the second floor room, we took a look out at the exterior of the fortress-like Church of the Dormition. This building dates back to the early 20^thcentury and is under the authority of the Benedictines. It is located on a spot where, according to Christian tradition, Mary died, or “fell asleep.” 

David's Tomb (with the Room of the Last Supper) 

Church of the Dormition as seen from the Room of the Last Supper

At this point, we had been on our feet for at least eight hours. It had been raining intermittently all day and the temperature was dropping. Despite our raingear and umbrellas, we were chilled and damp. There was so much more to see in the Old City, but it would have to wait for another day. Back in the hotel lobby, I discovered the perfect way to warm up – sahlab, a hot Arab beverage that warms the body and the soul. The taste is hard to describe. It’s milky and sweet, with subtle flavors I couldn’t identify, and most people sprinkle it with cinnamon and grated coconut. It actually reminded me of melted vanilla ice cream with a hint of rosewater. I’ve never seen it in the United States, but I’m going to do some online research and look for a recipe.

Delicious hot sahlab!

That's a quick rundown of my first 24 hours in Jerusalem. More to follow!