Shalom from Tel Aviv

Returning to Tel Aviv at the conclusion of the OAT tour felt like coming home again. I even had the same hotel room that I had previously occupied at the beginning of the tour. I had prepared a list of activities for the two days I would be spending here on my own. But really, I just wanted to wander around without a set schedule. 

When I travel independently, I give myself permission to get lost. In Tel Aviv, I actually refused to use the Maps app on my phone. Getting lost is half the fun, and a good way to discover places you didn’t even know existed when you are in a new city. Of course, there’s also the satisfaction that comes from finally figuring where you are and how to get to where you want to go. 

I spent my entire first day walking, starting on commercial King George Street, then through the bustling Carmel Market, and all the way south into the gentrifying Neve Zedek neighborhood, with its trendy galleries and boutiques. When my appetite kicked in, I popped into the highly-rated Anita’s Café on Shabazi Street for some of their superb homemade gelato.  

A busy morning in Carmel Market

Murals in Neve Zedek 

Bauhaus architecture in Neve Zedek 

Quirky building in Neve Zedek

The generous scoop gave me the energy necessary for another few hours on my feet. I strolled along elegant Rothschild Boulevard, admiring the grand buildings. I usually have a good sense of direction, but somehow, I got terribly disoriented when I tried to find the Grand Synagogue. And when I eventually located it, tucked away from the main street, the building was closed. I stuck to the smaller side streets as I made my way over to the open-air artists’ market that runs parallel to the Carmel Market. That brought me back to King George Street, which I congratulated myself on recognizing. On the way back to the hotel, I stopped for a late lunch of smoked salmon on a crusty roll at Landwer’s Café. What a successful day! 

While Friday’s weather had been ideal for walking, Saturday was more of a museum day. Right after breakfast, I dashed out in the rain spend a few hours at the Tel Aviv Art Museum. As I hoped, I was able to beat the crowds to a special traveling exhibit from Philadelphia. But I found the museum’s rich permanent collection just as impressive. I had no idea I would find so many works by some of my favorite artists, including Matisse, Klimt, and Chagall. 

Tel Aviv Museum of Art 

Klimt's portrait of Friederike Maria Beer (1916) 

When I left the museum, the rain had stopped. I was hungry again, of course. This being brunch time on a weekend, I took a seat at the bar in a popular and noisy neighborhood restaurant and ordered shakshuka. It almost felt like being back in New York. 

  

And finally, I couldn’t leave Tel Aviv without making another trip to the beach. Scanning the storm-darkened waters, I spotted several surfers struggling with the rough waves. After one last look at the Mediterranean, I was ready to go back to the hotel and start packing. 

I admit that I was looking forward to being home and making my own meals. As much as I love hummus, I was a little tired of eating it at breakfast, lunch and dinner. I was starting to crave some good old American food, like pizza, spring rolls, and guacamole. I was especially eager to see my family in Virginia. Judging from the photos Elisa had sent, Sylvie seemed to have grown up quite a bit while I was away. I couldn’t wait to see her excitement when I unpacked my treasures. 

When the trip began, I had resolved to exercise more self-control when it came to shopping. In fact, I intentionally brought along only a small suitcase so I wouldn’t have room for lots of purchases. That strategy wasn’t entirely successful since jewelry doesn’t take up much room. And I wanted to do my part to support the local economy.

On my last evening in Tel Aviv, my thoughts turned reflective. Having explored the ruins of countless earlier civilizations, I was reminded that power is transient, and even the strongest empire eventually crumbles. I also couldn’t help thinking about the Middle East today. Throughout our trip, in both Jordan and Israel, I’d felt perfectly safe. Yet I knew that the conflict between the different groups of people who make their home in this region is still unresolved. After speaking to Palestinians and Israelis from different walks of life, I had a better understanding of the complexity of the situation. Yet I still hope that the conflict can be resolved so that everyone can live in peace and security. 

I’d love to come back again to this city by the sea, especially in winter. But for now, it’s time to say “shalom” (Hebrew for hello, goodbye, and peace).