Imagine having your own estate in the Sicilian countryside. We had a brief taste of that fantasy on our “Day in the Life” experience, a feature of all OAT adventures. While this was billed as a visit to a farm, we soon discovered that Casale Modica, in Ragusa province, was no humble farm.
Our drive to reach the property brought us past typical scenes of rolling green hills, almond and carob trees, dry stone walls, and workers harvesting oranges.
We soon arrived at the farm, an estate once owned by a branch of the Borgia family. Its current owner, Michele, is a retired cardiologist in his early 60s. His great-grandfather acquired the property in 1850.
Michele, whose English was quite good, greeted us as we descended from the bus and let us have a quick look around the outside of the compound. The main house, built of stone, is 300 years old.
Then he ushered us into the courtyard, where his wife, Teresa, joined us. Wow, I remember thinking, as I surveyed the scene – the well at the center, the profusion of greenery, the vivid colors of flowers spilling out of ceramic pots, the tall shutters, the red roof tiles. I certainly wouldn’t mind living here!
Soon, we were all sitting on the terrace, sipping espresso and munching on “S” cookies while we introduced ourselves.
We then switched to aperitivos – glasses of Prosecco accompanied by cheese, toasted almonds, and completely irresistible fritelle (fennel seed fritters).
Michele explained that he was originally from Sicily. He and his wife, who is from northern Italy, had lived in Milan until recently when he retired and they returned to Sicily to care for this property. It has required extensive and costly restoration. The farm produces olives, almonds, organic oranges, wheat, and carob, which they sell to families in Italy and France. They also derive some revenue from renting out three apartments in the compound to vacationers.
After some conversation, our hosts put us to work in the kitchen – and what an incredible kitchen it was! I volunteered to help make bread and got a lesson in kneading and rolling the dough. We even ground our own flour using wheat grown on the farm.
While the bread dough was rising, our group took another guided walk outside. This time we got a good look at the dry stone walls, which are built without the use of any mortar. Michele showed us the apiary and noted that a beekeeper comes periodically to collect the honey, which is redolent of orange and almond blossoms from the surrounding trees. He also cautioned us about the purple flowers growing wild all around us. The plant is the wild mandrake root, which is poisonous.
On our way back into the house, he pointed out the catacombs, i.e. the mausoleum where several of the family’s cats have been interred in travertine tombs by earlier generations.
Pranza (lunch) was served in the high-ceiling dining room with its massive chandelier and cabinets displaying antique silver and china. We sat at one of the longest tables I’ve ever seen. Twenty chairs fit comfortably around it. I wonder if Michele and Teresa dine here every night.
The meal included the family’s version of caponata (sweet and sour eggplant), schiaccia (filled focaccia), a green salad with flavorful tomatoes, a citrusy shredded carrot salad, and, of course, our delicious homemade rolls. The main course was the classic Italian dish, saltimbocca (veal rolls with sage leaves). Bottles of a plummy Nero d’Avola, my favorite Sicilian red wine, provided a perfect complement to the food. Tiny cups of a thick lemon-based concoction (they called it “jello” but it was more like a pudding) and more espresso completed the meal.
We took one final digestive stroll around the property, and then it was time to say goodbye to Michele and Teresa and to thank them for their generous hospitality.
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