The town of Caltagirone, located on a hillside 2000 feet above sea level in the Val di Noto region of southeastern Sicily, is famous throughout the island for its ceramic art. Pottery making has a long tradition in Sicily, going back over 2000 years. Of course, there are plentiful remains of classical Greek and Roman pottery. But the beautifully painted ceramic art for which Sicily is known today is a result of stylistic and technical innovations introduced by the Arabs, who arrived in the 9th century. Although I wasn’t planning to make any major purchases, I was eager to window shop.
First, however, I set out to walk up the famous Scala di Santa Maria del Monte, a wide staircase of 142 steps leading to the Church of Santa Maria del Monte for a view out over the town. The gorgeous tiles that decorate every step were actually made in the 20th century, but in the traditional style.
The noontime church bells were peeling as I began my trek. 142 steps didn’t sound like a lot but that was before I started out. I should have done the math – it was the equivalent of at least 12 flights of stairs. I quickly discovered that I had to stop periodically, not only to appreciate the beautiful ceramic decorations and to peer into shop windows, but to catch my breath. Once I reached the top, the view was worth the effort.
The descent was a bit less challenging. I rewarded myself with lunch at one of Bar Judica’s outdoor tables where several of my fellow travelers were already sitting. For a total of seven Euros, I got a hearty meal - a pyramid-shaped arancino filled with spinach, cheese, and ham plus a big rectangular slab of delicious pizza – as well as a glass of refreshing white wine.
After lunch, I strolled around the center of town and browsed in a few more shops.
It didn’t take long to make some more ceramic purchases (helping to support local artists) – and small cream pitcher and earrings for me, an owl figurine for Sylvie, several other small objects, including a pine cone, a symbol of good luck and prosperity because of its abundance of seeds.
One item I clearly was adamantly not interested in was the “testa di Moro” (literally, Moor’s head), an ornamental ceramic vase that is found throughout Sicily. In fact, I’d seen several of these beautifully painted head-shaped planters in front of homes and storefronts along Caltagirone’s famous staircase.
Their origin goes back to the time when the Arabs ruled Sicily, about 1000 years. According to legend, a young Christian maiden was seduced by a young but married Moorish merchant. When she discovered that her lover was going abandon her and return to his family, she cut off his head so he could never leave her. The following day, she planted some basil (a symbol of passion) in the head and placed it on her balcony, where the plant flourished.
Nowadays, these teste di moro are usually sold in pairs – the head of a bearded man and the head of beautiful woman. You see them everywhere in Sicily and they’re quite popular souvenirs for tourists, but the idea of having a severed head for a decoration doesn’t appeal to me.
Our final stop in Caltagirone was at the same restaurant where I’d eaten lunch. This is where Sonia, our wonderful leader, had arranged for our group to have a cannoli making lesson. Actually, it was more of a cannoli filling lesson because the tubes of dough were already deep-fried. All we had to do was stuff them with the creamy ricotta filling and then dip the ends into chopped nuts (pistachios on one side, almonds on the other). And, finally, eat them, of course. The crisp outer shell shattered at the first bite and the sweet filling oozed everywhere, making for a very messy, but very satisfying experience!
As soon as I licked my fingers, it was time to say goodbye (or arriverderci, I hope) to Caltagirone and head back to the bus.
Now we were en route to Ragusa, another Val di Noto hill town that suffered extensive damage and loss of life in the 1693 earthquake.
Today, Ragusa is more than a mere town. It’s a city of more than 70,000 inhabitants and the capital of Ragusa province. The city actually consists of the upper modern city, Ragusa Superiore, where the majority of the population lives, and the much smaller and older section of the city, known as Ragusa Ibla. The two parts are separated by a deep ravine but bridges and staircases make it relatively easy to move between the upper and lower sections.
Our hotel for the next three nights was a 19th century former palace, located on the southern edge of Ragusa Ibla, with sweeping views of the valley below. Like many of the old town’s buildings, it is built right into the limestone rock of the steep hillside.
On our first evening in Ragusa, we experienced a Sicilian aperitivo. This is basically an extended happy hour with a lavish spread of hors d’oeuvres. To go along with my first ever Aperol spritz, I filled my plate with several items from an array of dishes that included octopus with cod (delicious), baked arancini with meat ragu, mortadella made from donkey (no, thank you), prosciutto, gazpacho, couscous with vegetables (another example of North African influence), grilled eggplant, cheeses, quiche Lorraine, and a salad of orange, radicchio, fennel and almonds. Of course, this was followed by several desserts. In other words, I over-ate once again. Walking back to the hotel through Ragusa’s dark and quiet streets, I promised myself I’d try to show more restraint in the coming days.
The next morning, as soon as I heard the church bells ringing, I jumped out of bed, pushed back the shutters, and stepped out onto my balcony. I stood transfixed at the view: a heavy mist suspended over the valley, glowing shades of pink and salmon as dawn crept over the hills, lights twinkling in the distance. It was almost as if I had been transported overnight into a magical fairy tale world. My sense of fantasy quickly evaporated when I went back inside and struggled unsuccessfully to figure out how to get hot water in the shower.
After breakfast, we got a better look at Ragusa Ibla during a guided walk. According to our local guide, Eleanora, Ragusa is known for its late Sicilian Baroque architecture, which is not as extreme as the Baroque style typically found in Rome.
 |
| Local guide Eleanora and tour leader Sonia |
One example is the Duomo di San Giorgio (Cathedral of St. George), the church located on the piazza just a short walk from our hotel. It’s one of several churches in Ragusa that have been recognized by UNESCO. The cathedral served as the church of the town’s nobles, i.e. the rich landowners who made money in the countryside and bought titles from the Spanish crown. One of the main ways they could show off their wealth was by decorating the church.
As expected, a painting of Saint George, Ragusa's patron saint, is prominently displayed in the church.
The neo-Classical dome was added in 1820. It is lined with glass windows rather than solid walls, so it allows light to stream in.
As we walked around the lower town, we saw many abandoned buildings and houses with “For Sale” signs. Eleanora told us that about a third of Ragusa Ibla’s dwellings are unoccupied and that you can buy a house for as little as $30,000 (or maybe 30,000 Euros). Of course, the necessary renovation to make it habitable would probably cost at least $50,000. But still, it sounds tempting.
We also peeked inside some of the troglodyte houses, i.e. buildings with caves inside. The building in the photo below is now a hotel. Since Ragusa Ibla was built into the rocky hillside, approximately 70 percent of its houses have such caves. This type of construction helps moderate indoor temperatures and offers a sense of safety as well.
Eleanora then led us on a short walk to the Piazza della Republica, where the Church of Santa Maria dell’Itria, built by the Knights of Malta, is located. This 17th century church is another UNESCO monument.
Continuing our explorations on foot, we approached the Palazzo Cosentini, a mansion built by a Sicilian nobleman in the late 18th century. We immediately remarked on the unusual sculptures beneath the balconies of the mansion. These include a bizarre assortment of gargoyles, masks, cornucopia, etc. According to Eleanora, some of the grotesque visages resemble the faces of the enemies of the Cosentini family.
Soon, we were on Via del Mercato, the old market street at the northern edge of Ragusa Ibla. The commercial buildings, once bustling with activity, are largely abandoned today as most businesses have relocated to the upper town. The faded signs indicated the products for which Ragusa is still known today: olive oil, honey, fresh produce, milk and cheese. In fact, Eleanora mentioned that the availability of high quality ingredients has led many chefs to open restaurants in Ragusa. Two of the town’s restaurants have received Michelin stars. Alas, their prices didn’t fit into my dining budget.
We eventually made our way to the opposite end of Ragusa Ibla, where the inviting public gardens are located.
Our three days in Ragusa were rich with experiences. I returned to the Piazza del Duomo several times at different hours of the day. I was drawn by the picturesque setting, with its fountain, cafés, craft shops,
And although I didn’t dine in any Michelin-starred restaurants, I thoroughly enjoyed an al fresco lunch of grilled calamari in the main piazza and a dinner of smoked swordfish pizza at Restaurant Mad.
On another occasion, Sonia, our tour leader, arranged for us to get a glimpse of how the city’s wealthy upper class lived. Behind a nondescript door in Ragusa Ibla, we found a veritable museum of art and artifacts in a house still occupied by elderly gentleman. He ushered us inside, sat down at his antique piano and played a few pieces, and allowed us to wander through the over-stuffed and over-decorated rooms of the mansion.
Sonia also brought us to the workshop of local ceramic artist who demonstrated how he makes the traditional teste di moro.
And thanks to fellow traveler Laura, I discovered Andrea Camilleri’s series of Inspector Montalban detective novels, set in a fictional town modeled on Ragusa. I’m not generally a fan of this genre, but the first book I read was so entertaining and downright funny at times that I’m eager to read more – and to watch the Italian television adaptation, which I believe you can stream through MHz Choice on Amazon Prime.
Finally, I can’t forget our visit to Modica, a hill town located a short distance from Ragusa.
The highlight of our time in Modica was a thrilling late afternoon ride in Fiat 500s, the world’s smallest 4-passenger cars. Even with only three people per car plus the local driver, we had to go through contortions to fit ourselves into the tiny vehicles. As soon as we managed to get all body parts safely inside, our driver took off on a hair-raising roller coaster of a ride, careening up and down the narrow, twisting streets of the old town.
At last, the caravan of vehicles stopped at an overlook and we all gratefully extricated ourselves from the cars. Our drivers, members of a local Fiat 500 motor club, proudly showed off their perfectly maintained vehicles and rattled off statistics, such as 500cc engine, 18 horse power, 2 cylinders, etc. They even presented us with honorary club membership cards.
We followed up the once-in-a-lifetime ride with a pre-dinner tasting of chocolate, a product Modica is especially known for. Even after sampling several varieties of chocolate, I managed to work my way through a three-course dinner at a nearby restaurant. So much for restraint.
By the time we left Ragusa and the Val di Noto, I was seriously considering returning in the future for a longer visit.
No comments:
Post a Comment