On my first full day in Campania, I decided to go to Positano on the Amalfi coast. There were two ways to get to Positano from Sorrento – by bus or by ferry. Like most of the towns on the Amalfi coast, Positano is spread out over a steep hillside that slopes down to the water. For this reason, I’d been advised to take the bus from Sorrento since it would drop me off at the top of the town. I could then take a leisurely walk down to the harbor where I’d catch the ferry to return to Sorrento. It sounded like a good plan.
The bus left from a parking lot behind the train station, a five-minute walk from the hotel. That was easy enough. Figuring out where and how to get the bus ticket took a frustrating 20 minutes or so. And then I hadn’t anticipated that there would be so many weekend travelers waiting for the hourly bus to Positano. Once I had my ticket in hand, I joined a long queue. I didn’t make it onto the first bus that came along but eventually, after standing in line for over an hour, I managed to get a seat on a Positano-bound bus.
Once we reached the Amalfi coast and started driving along a narrow, winding road, I was thrilled with the views (as well as terrified by the daredevil motorcyclists who were determined to pass every other vehicle on the road).
The closer we got to Positano, the more I understood why people raved about the Amalfi coast.
Around 10:30, the bus disgorged its passengers and I joined a crowd of people thronging the narrow shop-lined streets that descended through the town.
It was immediately apparent that shopping was the main tourist activity in Positano. Shops offered everything from tacky souvenirs to colorful ceramics to expensive resort wear. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in a shopping mood.
Bored vendors manned stands selling lemon granita.
I was making my way fairly quickly through the streets of Positano and was almost at the base of the town when I came upon the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (Church of the Assumption of Mary).
As I got closer to the entrance to the church, I saw a procession of white-robed children filing in. I’m not sure what ceremony was going on inside but it was obviously attracting a lot of tourists as well as local people. I peeked inside the church to get a better look.
The church is located in a piazza just above the beach at the Marina Grande. The weather wasn't exactly beach-like but that didn't discourage some people.
From the beach level, I could easily see the beautiful majolica tile covered dome of the church.
I could also see a long stream of people heading to the ferry. Fortunately, I’d purchased my ticket ahead of time.
Since I hadn’t stopped to do any shopping, I had probably made the descent through Positano in record time. In my opinion, the town’s setting is clearly its main attraction and I would have enjoyed it much more if it had been less crowded. In any case, I had satisfied my desire to get a look at the Amalfi coast.
The boat ride back was short but the sea was quite rough. I was glad when we docked in Sorrento, at the Marina Piccola (Small Marina). After lunch at one of the seaside restaurants (just a salad with smoked salmon), I had a choice to make. To return to the town center (elevation about 50 meters or 160 feet above sea level), I could either take an elevator from the marina or I could ascend on foot. The elevator would be quicker but I’m glad I opted to take the stone steps and ramps. Even stopping for photos and to catch my breath, it only took about 10 minutes to reach the level of the town center, and I had the opportunity to appreciate Sorrento's unique setting.
While it had been overcast in Positano, the sky in Sorrento was clear blue. The colors popped out in the afternoon sunshine as I walked through the historic area before heading back to the hotel for a mini-siesta.
At 6 o’clock, I walked back down to the Piazza Tasso for a pizza dinner at Aurora Pizzeria, a restaurant recommended by the driver who had picked me up at the airport. The toppings of crushed fresh tomatoes and mozzarella didn’t overwhelm the delicious crispy thin crust.
The late day light was so beautiful that I couldn’t resist taking another walk. Despite Sorrento’s shops and tourists, there was no doubting the beauty of its historic center. After seeing Positano, my thoughts about Sorrento were turning more positive. Being based here for the next week might not be so bad after all.
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