Peru - On to the Andes

At last it was time to head up to the Andes, in search of the Incas – and blue skies, too. We would be starting our adventures in Peru’s Sacred Valley, which got its name because the Urubamba River and its valley were sacred to the Incas. Fortunately, I had a window seat on the flight from Lima to Cusco and I was excited as the rugged mountain peaks came into view. I was also a bit concerned about how my body would react to the altitude. 

 

OAT had planned the itinerary of our trip with altitude adjustment in mind. Going directly from sea level to 11,000 feet to start intensive hiking would likely result in severe altitude sickness. Therefore, once we arrived in Cusco, we would be leaving immediately for the Sacred Valley, at about 9,000 feet, to give our bodies a chance to adjust more gradually. In fact, as soon as we boarded our private bus, Walter handed out coca candies, which are supposed to help prevent the headaches and other symptoms associated with altitude sickness. 

 

Our route took us first of all through Cusco, a major city with a population of 500,000 people, most of whom are mestizo. Walter told us that the modern name of the city comes from its Quechua name, Qosqo, which means “center of the world.” Cusco was the Inca capital, and we’d be returning here later in the trip. 

 

Traveling north, on the outskirts of Cusco, we could see the steep terraces built by the Incas and ruins of their temples. There are a limited number of roads in the area, and before we started our descent into the Sacred Valley, we actually had to climb up to 12,400 feet. Fortunately, the coca candies seemed to be working for me. While a few members of the group complained of headaches, I didn’t experience any such altitude-related problems. 

 

Our progress was slow since the roads in this part of the country were bumpy and full of switchbacks – plus we stopped frequently to take photos of llamas and alpacas. The landscape was stunning, the hillsides dotted with Inca terraces dating back to the 1430s. Walter explained the layering process for terrace construction: first big rocks, then small rocks, then gravel, then dirt, and finally fertile soil. 

With our tour leader, Walter
 

He also pointed out the groves of eucalyptus trees that have spread throughout the Sacred Valley. These trees, which were imported from Australia in the 1800s, have created major problems because they soak up all the water. 

 

A lunchtime picnic stop gave us a chance to see more llamas and alpacas. I also noticed a farmer plowing his field. Like most small farmers in this area, he was working without the aid of any modern machinery. 

 

Along the way, Walter shared some basic information about the history of the Incas. First of all, the word “Inca” was originally used only to describe the emperor. Only later was it used to describe the people. 

 

There were 13 Incas, i.e. emperors. The first, Manco Capac, founded the city of Cusco in the 12^th century. He was called the Son of the Sun. The ninth Inca, Pachacutec (also spelled Pachacuti), who ruled from 1438 to 1471, greatly expanded the empire from Cusco. At its height, around the year 1493, it encompassed an area of nearly 3000 square miles, ranging north to south from Ecuador and Colombia to Chile, and west to east from the Pacific coast to the Andes mountains and then to the Amazon jungle. The Incas eventually ruled close to 12 million people. In order to maintain control of the vast area, they built a system of roads totaling nearly 25,000 miles. And the most of the people they conquered adopted the Inca language, called Quechua. 

Handicrafts for sale at the entrance to Pisac

We made a mid-afternoon stop at the Pisac archaeological park, located 33 kilometers northeast of Cusco, at the southern end of the Sacred Valley. The site originally served as a defensive outpost during pre-Inca times. During the reign of Pachacutec, it was turned into a residence, observatory, citadel, and religious center. Today, it is considered one of the finest Inca archaeological sites in Peru. 

 

I was eager to explore Pisac although I was a bit tired (blame it on the early morning departure and the higher altitude). Walter mentioned that we’d be hiking, but I had no idea what to expect until I started climbing – up and up, stretching to reach steep steps, scrambling over irregularly placed rough stones – and struggling to catch my breath in the thin air. This was nothing like the climb at the Pucllana pyramid in Lima! Hiking in the Andes was a totally different experience, one that took me completely out of my comfort zone. Of course, there was no choice but to keep going. 

 

When one of my fellow travelers asked why the Incas, who were relatively short in stature, built steps that were so steep, Walter replied, “The more important the site, the steeper the steps.”

 

At the highest point, on a mountainous ridge, we were standing 11,500 feet above sea level, having climbed from 9500 feet. The wind was blowing fiercely, the sun was dipping lower, and the temperature was dropping. 

My hair was blowing straight up.

The vista of the Urubamba Valley opened below us, and it was impossible not to notice how seamlessly the terraces blended into the natural curvature of the landscape.  

In addition to terraces, the ruins included aqueducts, water channels, bridges, paths, cemeteries, towers, and a temple complex. As was often the case, the Sun Temple was aligned to the winter solstice sunrise. Looking at the Inca cemetery (tombs carved into the hillside), I recalled that the Incas buried their dead in fetal position. The idea was to return to the earth in the same position as they were born in.

Tombs carved into the hillside

Afterwards, back on the bus, I congratulated myself on completing the hike but wondered if hiking poles would make the upcoming hikes easier. I’d left mine home because they didn’t fit into my suitcase, but everyone told me they could be purchased at many of the sites. 

 

It was a welcome relief when we finally arrived shortly before sunset at our hotel in Urubamba. It was a comfortable resort-like property on the outskirts of town. After our gray days in the city of Lima, I appreciated the beauty of the setting.

A hot water dispenser and a bowl of coca leaves were set out on a table so I fixed myself a cup of coca tea. The flavor wasn’t at all unpleasant. 

  

On the subject of coca, during our stay in Urubamba, we had a conversation with a farming couple who grow coca, a major cash crop in Peru. Coca has traditionally been used in the indigenous communities, much like we drink coffee or cola for the caffeine. It also has medicinal uses and is used in religious ceremonies. Nowadays, however, much of it ends up in the hands of drug traffickers since it is a key ingredient in cocaine. Coca for personal use is legal in Peru, but the government has tried, rather unsuccessfully, to control its commercial production and distribution. The coca growers we spoke with were aware of the controversy involving coca and were willing to take the risks involved in their business since it is much more lucrative than growing legal crops. 

 

The small town of Urubamba is located northwest of Cusco, and it’s the most important town in the Sacred Valley. It doesn’t cater much to tourists so it was interesting to stroll through its main plaza and the surrounding streets.

We passed by some even smaller towns in the Sacred Valley, including Calca, which is known for its restaurants that specialize in cuy, i.e. guinea pig. Statues of smiling and well-dressed guinea pigs line the road. Guinea pig is a traditional food going back to Inca times. It is still served whole on special occasions, such as birthdays. 

 

I was not at all interested in trying guinea pig, but when we broke into smaller groups to visit typical Peruvian families for a home-hosted lunch in the Sacred Valley, guinea pig was certain to be on the menu. A multi-generational mestizo family welcomed us into their spacious tile-roofed home, which featured two levels, a patio, a vegetable and herb garden, and an outdoor kitchen as well as a kitchen in the house. 

We were then invited to help prepare chiles rellenos, which we fried over a wood fire in the outdoor kitchen. By the way, these were a Peruvian version of chiles rellenos (stuffed with cooked vegetables, topped with a masa batter) that were quite different from their Mexican counterparts.

I also helped by bringing the platter of roasted guinea pig out to the table. Fortunately, guinea pig wasn’t the only dish that was served at lunchtime. We started the meal with delicious quinoa soup, loaded with vegetables. I then filled my plate with rice, corn, mixed vegetables, and the chiles rellenos.

Thinking about guinea pigs, during our time in Peru, I probably saw hundreds, if not thousands, of the animals (alive, not on plates). Many people, especially in the countryside, keep them at home (usually confined to the kitchen). Some people raise them commercially for sale, and keep them in separate enclosures. 

 

Walter arranged for us to visit a very traditional Indian house, where guinea pigs were roaming freely. In the interior, he pointed out the three skulls perched on a shelf on the wall. He told us that it is common in the indigenous community to dig up the body of a family member a few years after the burial and to place the person’s skull in a prominent position in the house as a reminder that the dead are still part of the family’s life. We also noticed a dead condor and a fetal llama, both sacred to the Inca, hanging on the wall. These customs reminded us that many of Peru’s Indians maintain their Inca traditions centuries after the Spanish conquest and their conversion to Catholicism. 

Our second day in the Sacred Valley started with a rafting adventure on the Urubamba River. This was another new experience for me. In case you weren’t aware, I’m not exactly the outdoorsy/sporty type. Once we were all decked out in the appropriate gear, we pushed off into the chilly river. The waters were calm most of the time – except when they weren’t, such as when we were headed towards some rocks. Actually, as rafting goes, it was a relatively tame ride, but I found it exhilarating! 

After the thrill of the raft ride, I would have been happy to sit in a café with a cup of coffee and then move on to ice cream and an early lunch. But instead, it was time to set out for the Inca site of Ollantaytambo, located 60 miles north of Cusco at the northwest end of the Sacred Valley. The archaeological site is located right in the town itself. 

 

After the previous day’s hike in Pisac, I knew what to expect. At the Indian market right outside the entrance to the site, I purchased a walking stick for 30 soles (less than $8). It did, in fact, make me feel more secure although I still found the climb extremely challenging. 

 

Like Pisac, Ollantaytambo was probably built by Pachucutec in the mid 1400s and served as a military, religious, and agricultural center. In 1537, a large battle took place here between a rebel Inca army led by Manco Inca and an army of Spanish invaders, led by Francisco Pizarro. The Spanish were forced to withdrew to Cusco, but they soon received reinforcements, causing Manco Inca to abandon Ollantaytambo.  

 

The Ollantaytambo archaeological site includes the well-preserved ruins of an Inca temple and fortress. We climbed 245 steps to reach the highest point. Getting a close look at the Temple of the Sun, I was amazed to see how the huge carved granite blocks fit so perfectly together. 

 

The town of Ollantaytambo (elevation 9160 feet) has been continuously inhabited by indigenous communities for centuries. Walter described it as a “living museum” since many of the Indian residents continue their traditional lifestyles. Nowadays, the town attracts a lot of visitors since it is the main starting point for the Inca Trail. Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a four-day, three-night endeavor (usually with sherpas to carry your supplies). The town has a distinctly New Age vibe, with plenty of hostels for backpackers, restaurants for tourists, and massage parlors to ease your sore muscles. It’s also where you can get the train to Aguas Calientes, the town closest to Machu Picchu. 

Another activity we managed to fit into our very busy schedule in the Sacred Valley was a visit to a typical chicha bar, also known as an “ajha wasi” in Quechua. 

Although 9am may not be the ideal time to sample alcoholic beverages, I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to try the traditional fermented corn brew. The owners of the bar showed us the process of making chicha – drying the corn for several days, crushing it in a grinder (although the traditional method was to chew it and spit it out), adding boiling water, wheat, and spices, such as cinnamon and cloves, then boiling the mixture for about 20 minutes, and finally filtering it. 

A large glass of the foam-topped golden drink costs only 1 sol, about 26 cents. There’s also a purple version called chicha morada that is sweetened with sugar. It gets its color from strawberries. The chicha morada is slightly more costly at 2 soles (a little over 50 cents) and is supposedly favored by women. 

Walter demonstrated the traditional Quechua toast, which involved acknowledging the apus (sacred mountains) by naming them and acknowledging Pachamama (mother earth) by pouring a few drops on the dirt floor.  

While we were sampling our drinks, Walter picked up a charanga that was hanging on the wall and played some typical Andean tunes for us. This small stringed instrument was developed during colonial times. An armadillo shell traditionally forms the back of the instrument. 

Afterwards, the owners introduced us to a popular bar game called sapo, which means “toad.” Several sapo tables were set up on the patio. The game gets its name from the metal toad that sits at the front of the tabletop. There are also slots, holes, and metal spinners on the tabletop. Each player gets a number of heavy disks that he or she throws at the table from a designated distance. The disks then fall through to a drawer with boxes under the tabletop. Each box has a different point value. You earn the most points if your disk falls through the toad’s mouth. Players keep track of their points and betting is often involved. 

Playing sapo is harder than it initially looks. When it was my turn, my score was zero. Maybe I needed to drink more chicha. But there wasn’t time for that. We had a train to catch for Machu Picchu. So, grab your passport and come along with me! 

Peru, Starting at Sea Level

Thanks to all the Peruvian students I’ve taught over the years, I’ve developed an interest in this South American country. Finally, a few weeks ago, I was able to travel to Peru on an OAT Adventure and see this fascinating land for myself.  Over a period of two and a half weeks, I traveled from the Pacific coast to the Andes Mountains, from the edge of the jungle to the Altiplano, and from sea level to nearly 13,000 feet in altitude.  I walked, hiked, and climbed more than I ever have in my life. 

While it was the most physically challenging trip I’ve ever taken, the first few days were deceptively easy. I landed in Lima (elevation about 500 feet), a city of 10 million people and the capital of Peru, two days before the official start of my OAT adventure. My hotel was in the Miraflores area, a lovely and safe middle- and upper middle-class neighborhood known as the garden spot of Lima. Although it was shortly after midnight when I checked into the hotel and I just wanted to fall right into bed, I brushed my teeth, remembering to use bottled water. I also noticed something strange: all the towels felt somewhat damp.

 

It was only the next morning when I checked the weather app on my phone that I discovered the reason – the humidity level was 98%. But there was no rain in the forecast, just cloudy conditions. Pushing aside the curtains and raising the blinds, I was rewarded with an up-close view of the HVAC system and a defiantly gray sky. At least the temperatures were in the comfortable range. In fact, the 50s and low 60s were very welcome after the summer heat I’d been experiencing in the Washington, DC area. 

 

I was on my own for the first couple of days before my OAT tour began, and I found Miraflores very easy to explore on foot. It was the weekend and the sidewalks were filled with people out shopping, strolling, and sitting at outdoor café tables. Although the temperature seemed spring-like to me, it was technically their winter season, and many were wearing puffy coats and tall boots. In addition, I was somewhat surprised to see that almost everyone was wearing a mask. 

 

The main commercial street, Avenida Larco, was lined with modern buildings housing banks, shops, and restaurants at street level. Nearby Kennedy Park had benches, a playground, food vendors, and an open-air art exhibit. 

There was a large supermarket not far from the park where I marveled at the exotic fruits and the amazing variety of potatoes. 

Just a couple of blocks from my hotel, I was able to appreciate Lima’s spectacular setting on cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. You can walk on promenades that go through parks and look down at the waves crashing on the shore. It wasn’t beach weather but there were plenty of surfers (in wet suits) and paragliders. There’s also a very upscale shopping mall called Larcomar that is set right on the cliffs. 

Continuing north on a path along the coast, I found the popular Parque del Amor, “Love Park.” Its colorful mosaic work is reminiscent of Gaudi’s Parque Guell in Barcelona and features quotations from famous writers about love. 

Of course, I was eager to try some Peruvian food. For my first lunch, I went to a typical Peruvian restaurant for cebiche pescado (fish “cooked” in lime juice) and causa de langostino (lobster salad sandwiched between two layers of mashed golden potatoes). The plate was garnished with two Peruvian staples: sweet potato and large kernel corn.  

For lunch the following day, I stopped by the Avenida Larco location of a legendary sandwich shop, La Lucha Sangucheria. Instead of the extremely popular chicharron, I tried pavo a la leña (roast turkey), accompanied by an order of patates fritas with a special sauce. I’m not quite sure that all the rave reviews are merited. A few slices of roast turkey on a roll? Some steak-cut fries? It wasn’t much to get excited about. Oh, well. It was only a few more hours until dinner. 

 

Much to my delight, there was a “chifa,” the ubiquitous Peruvian Chinese restaurant, located a few doors down from my hotel. As I expected, the décor was very basic, the prices were low, and there were many familiar items on menu. For 36 soles (less than $10), I had wonton noodle soup, shrimp with vegetables and a large serving of fried rice – all very tasty and filling. 

 

To explore beyond Miraflores, I hopped on the Mirabus (a red double decker bus for tourists) and traveled north through the San Isidro neighborhood towards the city center. As we neared downtown, the area became increasingly congested. I got a glimpse of some tallish modern buildings as well as neo-classical structures. We passed through Plaza San Martin with its equestrian statue of liberator José Martin before the bus parked a few blocks from the Plaza Mayor, Lima’s main square, with its Cathedral and Archbishop’s Palace. 

Wandering around the car-free streets, I noticed that the peaks of the Andes were visible in the distance. I took a leisurely walk around the vast open space of the plaza, crowded with weekend visitors, knowing I would be returning to this area as part of the OAT tour. 

 

When the tour kicked off on Monday morning, my education started in earnest. Throughout the 2 weeks we were together, our tour leader, Walter Torres, provided us with a wealth of information. It’s not surprising, since he is a historian, a teacher, and has written two books about the Incas. With his mestizo background (Indian mother, Spanish father) and fluency in both Quechua and Spanish, Walter proved to be the perfect guide to Peru. 

 

One of the first things I learned is that Peru’s population is 52% mestizo. Large numbers of Indian communities still exist throughout the country, although not in Lima proper. It wasn’t a surprise to learn that Peru has very little arable land, but it was definitely a surprise to learn that 58% of the country is jungle and that the coastal region is a desert. I always imagined Peru was mostly mountainous. Here’s another fact: the oldest civilization in the Americas is the Caral culture which began 5000 years ago (that’s 4500 years before Incas) on the coast of modern-day Peru. And did you know that today in the city of Lima, there are over 50 pre-Columbian pyramids? Walter noted that when the Spanish arrived in the early 1500s, there were actually over 500 pyramids in Lima, most of which the Spanish destroyed. 

 

Our group made an afternoon visit to the Huaca Pucllana, an archaeological site located right in Miraflores, where we explored one of the pyramids that dates back to pre-Inca times. 

Around 400-500 CE (1000 years before the Incas), the site was used as an administrative and religious center by the Lima culture. These people were engaged in farming, fishing, and raising livestock. They developed an irrigation system fed by the waters of the Rimac River. Marine dieties played a central role in their religion, and the image of the shark can be found on many Lima artifacts. Some archaeologists believe that the Lima people practiced human sacrifice, especially at times of droughts or poor harvests. 

 

The Pucllana pyramid is built of sunbaked adobe (mud) bricks, in a “library” style, i.e. placing the bricks vertically but angled slightly and with spaces between the bricks. Adobe is a flexible material and by using the library style of construction, the builders created walls that were anti-seismatic, i.e. designed to withstand earthquakes. 

Unlike Egyptian pyramids, the interior of the immense pyramid at Pucllana is not hollow but is filled with mud. Its seven levels, or platforms, were not built all at the same time. Three different civilizations were involved in the pyramid’s construction. Possibly due to climate change or El Niño, the Lima people eventually abandoned the site. Around 700 CE, the Wari (also spelled Huari) took over the site and used it as a cemetery for mummies of the aristocracy until approximately 1000 CE. 

 After the collapse of the Wari culture, the site was taken over by the Ychsma people, who ruled a large area of Peru until conquered by the Inca. They also used the site as a temple and burial site. 

Pyramids similar to the one we saw in Miraflores existed all along the coast of Peru prior to the arrival of the Spanish. In the mid-1800s, Rafael Larco, the wealthy descendant of an Italian immigrant, bought a plantation on Peru’s northern coast and discovered several pyramids on his property. Exploring the land further, he found cemeteries filled with mummies, pottery, textiles, metal work, etc., and began a collection that eventually grew to over 45,000 pieces. The majority of the pieces are pre-Inca pottery, mostly from the Moche civilization. Although the objects were 1500 to 2500 years old, 99% of the pieces were completely intact. 

 

The Larco Museum was established in 1926 by the Larco family to showcase the collection. What’s remarkable about the items in the museum is that nothing required restoration. The museum is located in a mansion surrounded by beautiful gardens. Notice the bougainvillea:

According to our local guide, the Moche made offerings of pottery and it was a sign of the giver’s status. Many of the pieces were decorated with images of animals that had special meaning in pre-Columbian cultures. Birds, such as the owl and the condor, represented the power of the skies. Felines, such as the puma, represented the power of the earth, and serpents represented the power of the underworld. In some pieces, features of the three animals are merged together into a single figure. 

There’s an ancestral Moche figure with a two-headed snake. 

 

Moche pieces influenced by the Wari culture feature more colors.

Other artifacts portrayed ritual combat and sacrifice, as practiced by the Moche, who believed that human sacrifice was necessary to prevent the disastrous effects of natural phenomena, such as El Niño. The sons of the wealthy class would engage in hand-to-hand ritual combat with the goal of knocking off the opponent's headdress. The loser would become the sacrificial victim. 

 

There was a Wari art mummy from the 8th century as well as gold ornaments from the Chimu culture (1300 - 1532 CE).  

A special building was devoted to an extensive collection of erotic art. In the ancient Peruvian cultures, sexuality was understood as a potent regenerative force. The pieces of pottery in this part of the collection were extremely explicit. You’ll have to use your imagination because I didn’t take any photos – my grandchildren love to get hold of my electronic devices and scroll through the pictures. If you’re ever in Lima, I strongly encourage you to visit to Larco Museum. 

 

Of course, we also took a look at downtown Lima, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The modern city and its harbor were founded by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535 on a site in the Rimac River valley previously used by the Lima culture. The city became the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru. 

The Spanish arrived looking for gold and silver. For the Incas, gold was considered the sweat of the sun and had a religious, rather than economic, value. The conquistadores seized as much Inca gold as they could and melted it down. A certain percentage was sent back to the Spanish monarchs. 

 

By the late 1500s, Lima was the target of frequent attacks by pirates and corsairs (mostly English and French) who wanted to steal the gold and silver stored in the city. The Spanish eventually built defensive walls that were 15 feet high and 15 feet wide and included ten gates. Most of the city walls were demolished in the late 1800s as Lima’s population grew.

 

The colonial architecture of downtown Lima shows the influence not only of Spain, but also of the Moors (North African Muslims) due to their presence on the Iberian peninsula for several centuries. The French also exerted an influence on colonial Lima’s architectural style during the 18^th and 19^th centuries. As Spain’s military power waned, France’s power, and cultural influence, grew. 

 

I had already made an earlier visit to Lima’s main square, the Plaza de Armas, also known as the Plaza Mayor. This immense open space attracts local people and tourists alike. The plaza is where the Lima’s cathedral and several other important buildings are located. 

The Metropolitan Cathedral dates back to the early 1600s. Directly to the left of cathedral is the Archbishop’s Palace. Although the latter building looks old, it was actually built in the 1920s in neo-Colonial style. 

During colonial times, the buildings facing the square were occupied by wealthy families. The distinctive wooden balconies allowed the women to enjoy the fresh air without being observed. Other buildings on the square include the Presidential Palace from 1930s, built on site of early Lima structure. In the center of the square is an impressive bronze fountain dating back to 1651. 

 

We encountered a lot of traffic on our way to the downtown area but the slow pace gave us a chance to notice the variety of architectural styles in the city center. There were very few “modern” looking buildings, i.e. skyscrapers, perhaps because of the earthquake danger. Actually, the tallest building in Lima has 35 stories. There were, however, large buildings in the Beaux Arts, Brutalist, and neo-colonial styles. Most of these buildings were gray, matching the gray of the overcast sky.  

 

Barranco is a more bohemian area of modern-day Lima. In the 1850s, rich European residents of Lima built summer vacation houses here as an escape from downtown. Their beach houses, called “ranchos,” are beautiful big houses in different architectural styles. Nowadays, Barranco is a desirable neighborhood filled with art galleries, museums, coffee houses, restaurants, and clubs. It has a certain charm, especially if you can manage to ignore the Starbucks, Papa John’s, and Dunkin’ Donuts on the main plaza. It was very quiet when we visited early on a weekday morning but our guide assured us that it gets extremely crowded in the evenings and on weekends.

 

The most interesting aspect of our visit to Barranco was a walk through a park decorated with murals created by local artists. The artists were commissioned by the government to create works to empower women and to raise public awareness of domestic abuse, which continues to be a big problem in Peru. 

We made a stop at a small fish market in the Chorrillos area of Lima. The fishing colony in this location goes back to colonial times. On the beach, there was a cluster of fishing boats and nets in need of repair. Sea lions are responsible for most of the torn nets. We noticed black crown herons, which Walter described as thieves who steal the fish right out of the nets. Pelicans perched on overhangs, observing the activities on shore as well as on the water. 

 

In the covered market area, a fisherman named Joaquin shared his experiences and noted that the people who make their living from fishing suffered greatly during the first years of the pandemic. He pointed out different varieties of fish and shellfish that were taken from the year-round chilly waters (thanks to the Humboldt Current) off the coast. 

 

I noticed a row of open-air restaurants on the beach but, unfortunately, it was too early for lunch. 

Speaking of food, our two group lunches in Lima gave me a chance to try some new Peruvian specialties as well as enjoy some more familiar dishes. At a restaurant in Miraflores, I tried a delicious appetizer called taqueños, which is fried dough stuffed with cheese and served with guacamole on the side. After a main course of grilled fish (accompanied by a boiled potato the size of a tennis ball), I had one of my favorite Latin American desserts, tres leches cake. 

At La Muralla, a downtown restaurant adjacent to the Rimac River and the remains of the city walls, I started off the meal with my first ever Pisco sour. The appetizer was causa jardiniera (golden mashed potatoes stuffed with cooked vegetables mixed with mayonnaise). The highlight of the meal was probably the main course, arroz con mariscos, a rice and seafood dish similar to paella. 

 

Although the skies were gray throughout our time in Lima, there was never any rain. It’s certainly a shame that we never saw a blue sky, but Walter promised us that all would be different once we got to the mountains. After four days of gloom, I was definitely ready for sunshine, so vamanos – let’s  go!