A Day in Tetouan

From Chefchaouen, it was a drive of an hour and a half to Tetouan (pronounced Tetwan). Tetouan may not attract large numbers of tourists, like Chefchaouen, but it is an important city of over half a million people on the Atlantic coast at the base of the Rif Mountains. Along the route to Tetouan, the landscape opened into expansive valleys. Abdou pointed out the almond and peach trees on the hillsides. Their branches were already adorned with pink and white blossoms. Other varieties of trees in the area, including Aleppo pines, cypress, and oaks, were introduced by the French. 

Before we reached our destination, Abdou explained that Tetouan is considered a conservative city, i.e. the people are more religious than in many other cities, such as Casablanca. We therefore expected to see more heavily veiled women. He also informed us that we would be accompanied by a police escort throughout our visit. This must have been a requirement of the Moroccan government, maybe for security reasons. In any case, our escort followed us quite discreetly. 

 

Tetouan served as the capital of the Spanish protectorate in northern Morocco from 1912 to 1956. Because of its location near the Iberian peninsula, it was in close contact with Andalusia beginning in the 8^th century. At one time, there was also a significant Sephardic (Iberian) Jewish community in the city. The Spanish influence is apparent in the modern part of the city’s white buildings with balconies, and the Seville orange trees that line the wide avenues. Abdou also pointed out a neo-Baroque Spanish church that was built during the protectorate. 

It was a raw and chilly day so we stopped to warm up with a cup of coffee at a café facing Tetouan’s expansive main plaza where the weather didn’t keep a group of boys from kicking around a soccer ball. 

We also took a quick look at the heavily guarded Royal Palace (one of several in the country) before stopping at a riad in the medina for a lunch of salad and fried fish. I recognized the sardines, squid and prawns. Among the less familiar but delicious species were merlan (I believe that’s French for whiting) and John Dory (aka St. Pierre). 

Afterwards, we followed Abdou through the souk (the shopping area of the medina).

He pointed out the markings on the ground, a graphic form of directions, if you can understand the symbols. Actually, signs posted at various places explained their meanings. 

In Chefchaouen, we had noticed the unusual straw hats with colorful pompoms worn by some of the women. Abdou explained that these are typically worn by Amazigh women when they are out working in the fields. Also, in the photo below, you'll see signs in the background that explain the meaning of the floor symbols. 

The highlight our visit was learning about traditional Moroccan decorative arts at a school, established in 1919, that is devoted to keeping these arts alive. It’s located just across from a gate to the old medina. Unfortunately, since it was the weekend, the school wasn’t in session, but Abdou arranged for us to visit the workshops anyway. Students enrolled in the four-year program begin their studies at age 12. They have classes Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm. They receive instruction in painting, calligraphy, wood carving, tile work (including mosaics), plaster carving, embroidery, metal work, and inlay. Abdou demonstrated and explained in detail the time-consuming methods and processes developed over the centuries. His knowledge was quite impressive! An exhibit at the school showed works completed by master artisans and past students.