More of Morocco: Volubilis and Meknes

 

We got an early start on the day we visited the Roman ruins in Volubilis, a UNESCO World Heritage site about an hour and a half west of Fez. A light rain was falling and I admonished myself for not packing my waterproof rain pants. It’s no fun walking around an archaeological site when you’re soaking wet. 

 

Driving across the Plain of Saiss, I realized how important that rain was. The dazzling green of the fields and terraced hillsides attested to the agricultural importance of the region. I just never imagined that Morocco would resemble Ireland! The major crops grown here are corn, wheat, barley, chickpeas, and fava beans. In addition, much of the land is covered with olive trees and grape vines, apple and peach trees, agave and prickly pear. We passed the occasional farmer tending his cows or a donkey nibbling grass on the side of the road. All in all, it was a quiet bucolic scene, as long as I ignored the trash strewn all around the roadside.

 Volubilis predates the arrival of the Romans by several hundred years. At one time, it was part of the Kingdom of Mauretania. Given the fertility of the region, it’s no wonder the Romans, who had an empire to feed, were so eager to take control of Volubilis. During the time they were here, from 25BCE to 285CE, they cut down much of the forests in order to cultivate wheat. At its height, Volubilis had a population of about 20,000 people, with Amazigh, Greeks, Jews, and Syrians, in addition to Romans. Under pressure from local Amazigh tribes, the Romans abandoned Volubilis around 280CE. 

 

Approaching the Roman ruins, the sky brightened slightly. By the time our bus parked, instead of rain, there was just a heavy mist – and some extremely muddy ground. With a very knowledgeable local guide, we spent nearly two hours exploring the site, which is still being excavated. 

Triple arches are set on the city’s main boulevard. The broad avenue leads to the Triumphal Arch, which honors the emperor Caracalla and his mother. 

 

The Capitoline Temple is dedicated to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. 

The Basilica was a public building used for the law courts and other official functions. 

In addition to the public buildings, there are several private houses with noteworthy mosaic floors. 

 

Storks have built their nests on top of some of the restored columns.

 

The olive presses are a reminder of the importance of olive production in Volubilis. 

After we concluded our visit to Volubilis, we continued on to Meknes, an imperial city about an hour away. Meknes served as the capital of Morocco during the reign of Moulay Ismail of the Alaouite (Arab) dynasty. Moulay Ismail, a contemporary of Louis XIV of France, has a reputation as a cruel and brutal ruler. Although he had several wives, he attempted (unsuccessfully) to arrange a marriage with one of the daughters of the French king. According to historians, he had over 800 biological children. We visited his mausoleum complex, which was quite beautiful. 

Today, Meknes is the fourth largest city in Morocco. Although it's an imperial city, it doesn't attract the numbers of tourists who flock to Fez. It is known as the country’s wine capital and it’s also a major producer of olives. 

 

Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, there was major construction work going on that covered up the famous monumental gate to its medina. However, the Dar Jamai Museum was definitely worth a visit. It showcases Moroccan arts with a special focus on music from various regions of the country. Along with the many interesting exhibits, the sounds of music filled the beautiful 19^th century palace. 

The display of early stringed instruments and drums was especially interesting.

And would you believe a 19th century zither made of mahogany, fish skin, and metal?

From a Jewish community in the Anti-Atlas region (southern Morocco), there was a traditional shofar (ram's horn).