Twenty-Four Hours in Tangier

Tangier

After leaving Chefchaouen, we headed for Tangier, following a road than ran along the Mediterranean coast. With numerous resorts, the region is crowded in the summer months, but was deserted on this overcast and blustery day. Abdou called our attention to the storks’ nest perched at the top of towers.

 

Before we reached the actual city of Tangier, its sprawling port came into view through the mist. This industrial port, officially known as Tanger Med, is already the largest in Africa, and it is still under construction. It’s a city unto itself, with housing and other facilities for the thousands of workers employed there. Trucks waiting to enter are lined up on the road for miles. 

 

Once we were past the port, the sun broke through the clouds, illuminating lush green rolling hillsides dotted with yellow wildflowers. When we stopped for lunch at a restaurant with a view of the Mediterranean, I felt like I was back in familiar territory. 

 

Located at the northern edge of Morocco, a mere 20 miles across the Strait of Gibraltar from Tarifa, Spain, Tangier has its own distinctive flavor and unique mixture of the cultures that sets it apart from other Moroccan cities. 

 

At first glance, the profusion of hotels and casinos, parks, and beaches strung along the Corniche (the coastal road) reminded me of a European city. As our charming local guide, Mohamed, explained, most of Tangier is indeed modern. Yet it has a long and complicated history, due primarily to its strategic location. 

 

Tangier was originally settled by ancient Greek and Phoenician traders. (Archaeological evidence suggests that Jews came here as early as 572 BCE, following the destruction of the First Temple.) Like other Moroccan cities, in the first century BCE, it came under Roman rule. Later, it was overrun by the Vandals and the Visigoths, crossing over from Spain. 

 

The Arabs invaded the city in the early 8^th century and established their rule for the next few centuries. They were eventually toppled by the native Almoravid dynasty, of Amazigh (Berber) origin in 1075. Next came two other Amazigh dynasties, the Almohads, who came to power in 1149, and the Merenids, who ruled until 1471, when the Portuguese captured the city. It was actually given by the Portuguese king to King Charles II of England as a wedding gift about 200 years later. 

 

After a brief period of English rule, a local Sultan, Moulay Ismail, of the Alouite dynasty, captured Tangier and destroyed much of the city in the process. The Moroccans remained in control until the mid-19^th century when the imperialist European powers decided to divvy up Africa. 

 

This is when Tangier’s history diverged from that of other Moroccan cities. While the rest of Morocco came under French or Spanish control, Tangier became an independent international and tax-free city, a status it held from 1912 to 1956. It was divided into sectors administered by nine different countries, including Britain, France, Spain, and the U.S. During this period, Europeans and Americans flocked to the city, attracted by its anything-goes culture. As a result, Tangier developed a somewhat unsavory reputation. On the other hand, the city also drew artists and writers, such as Henri Matisse and Paul Bowles. 

 

With Morocco’s independence in 1956, Tangier once again became part of Morocco but went into a period of economic and cultural decline. It’s only in the 21^st century that Tangier has rebounded, with investment in industry, urban renewal projects, the construction of a new marina, and high-speed train service linking the city with Casablanca. 

 

Looking back at the twenty-hours we spent in Tangier, I’m amazed that we were able to see so many different sides of this fascinating city in such a short period of time. 

 

In a beautiful residential area where mimosa was in full bloom, we stopped at a coastal nature preserve to look out at Cape Spartel, known as the most northwesterly point of Africa. The lighthouse dates back to 1865. This is where the waters of the Straits of Gibraltar meet the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Mohamed, our local guide in Tangier

The Atlantic is over my right shoulder and the Strait is over my left shoulder.

 

In the center of the city, we admired the European architecture ... 

...before passing through a gate and entering the medina.

Note the mezuzah on the door frame.

 At our hotel, tucked into the medina, we enjoyed a fish tagine (merlan, or whiting) for dinner. Given its location on the coast, Tangier’s cuisine is known for its fish dishes. In fact, during a visit to the marketplace in the souk, I was impressed by the variety of fresh fish and seafood available.

Thanks to Abdou, I was able to gain access to a synagogue in the medina. The ornate Moshe Nahon Synagogue was built in 1878, a time when the Jewish population of Tangier numbered about 8,000 people. 

 

Not far from the walls of the medina, we stopped into St. Andrew’s, a small Anglican church that serves a multi-faith community (various Christian denominations, plus Jews and Muslims) and prides itself on its tolerance for all the Abrahamic religions. Its decor included Islamic calligraphy and Jewish symbols. Several notable expats are buried in its tranquil, leafy cemetery. 

We also visited the building of the American Legation in Morocco, where I learned that Morocco was the first nation to recognize the United States after it declared independence. (see document below) It was the first diplomatic property that the U.S. acquired and is recognized as the only National Historic Landmark outside U.S. territory. In addition, I learned about Operation Torch, the successful U.S. led military operation to liberate French North Africa, which was controlled by the Vichy-based regime, during World War II. 

 

Finally, we strolled along the Corniche (seaside promenade) to reach a restaurant where I enjoyed a delicious mixed grill for lunch. A ferry office was adjacent to the restaurant. 

And then, less than twenty-four hours after we arrived in Tangier, we headed to the city’s modern light-filled train station to catch a high-speed train to Rabat.